Classic Parts vs LMC Truck

[rwrogers11]

I'm looking at buying one new fender and one door. Just curious as to which is better, Classic Parts or LMC Truck, any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Richard

[Jurassic-1]

What year truck are you working on? Out of those 2 I would use classic . some LMC parts have not been too good on fit. It has been quite a while since I have tried LMC again. Brothers and Truck shop have been pretty good on fit and finish on the 3 different generation trucks I have recently been working on.

[OrrieG]

I have bought most of my small parts from Classic, but no panels. Only issue I have had was with the passenger visor, it came like 3/4 scale of the original one I had.

[dwcsr]

Most door unless completely rotted should be fixed before buying new. If you buy new get Dynacorn doors from whom ever sells them. They fit better than most and are a shade heavier than originals. I fix a lot of doors and very few can't be fixed cheaper than buying new.

[1project2many]

Does anyone use Jim Carter anymore? They were very good when I built my truck but that was quite a few years ago.

[69l46vert]

I've been getting my AD rust repair panels from this outfit. I did not buy doors but he's shipping doors (and almost everything else) for free. Parts I've received have been from Dynacorn and TriPlus (relabeled "KeyParts") and were well made with pretty good fit. But again, I did not buy doors so I can't speak to their fit.

http://www.fixmyrust.com/Item/52-54_...Passenger_Side

I've bought a lot from Jim Carter and plan to buy more. Great outfit imo. Some really hard to find parts and good deals.

[mr48chev]

That's an easy to use site 69I46vert Thanks for the link.

I haven't bought sheetmetal though those sources but have bought some for my 71 from Wes at www.classicheartbeat.com he isn't the lowest price but sells quality parts that he also uses in the trucks he works on in his shop.

[OrrieG]

Jim Carter was one of the original restoration guys, along with Grumpy's in Arizona. That is where I got all of my metal from (cab corners and lower hinge pockets) which fit perfectly (1980's). That was back when it was made in the US from the original dies. They used to have quite an inventory of NOS and used odd ball parts, but I suspect over the years it has gotten pretty depleted.

[Highsider]

LMCtruck.com got my business about 18-months ago.

Hood, fender and lower repair panels for both doors. You can see all installed items in the photo.

[rwrogers11]

The doors are not in that bad of shape, as usual the bottom needs to be replaced. But I'm more worried about the door being pushed out right at the window support line. It looks like someone had something inside and slammed the door.



The fenders, I think I can do the patch panels on all but one of them. One of the rear fenders needs the front patch panel, the back patch panel, and a bunch of dents removed. Due to cost and time, I think it may be easier to either buy a new one or find one in better condition.

Thanks,
Richard

[rwrogers11]

Here's what the inside of the door bottom looks like. As for the outside, I won't know until I have it blasted and see how much bondo comes off.

[OrrieG]

How does the door fit in the cab opening? If it fits with a good gap I would be looking at the cab for compression front to back. With that bend, I would expect the rear gap to be wider and maybe even latching problems??? Old school fix involves door in closed position, come along applying tension to the passenger side at the bend, 4x4 and sledge hammer. With the right tension one good pop should move it back into place. Without the tension it will just bounce back. You will also need to tap the inside with a hammer to release the tension as it moves. I had to get a bend out of my tailgate using similar method.

[rwrogers11]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

How does the door fit in the cab opening? If it fits with a good gap I would be looking at the cab for compression front to back. With that bend, I would expect the rear gap to be wider and maybe even latching problems??? Old school fix involves door in closed position, come along applying tension to the passenger side at the bend, 4x4 and sledge hammer. With the right tension one good pop should move it back into place. Without the tension it will just bounce back. You will also need to tap the inside with a hammer to release the tension as it moves. I had to get a bend out of my tailgate using similar method.

I'll look again, but from memory, its not a wide gap. However that door does have a problem latching or opening the latch, you have to pop it just right.

I'll try taking the glass out, putting a spacer between the outer and inner door panels and putting some tension on it, see if I can pull them back in. I think I'll put a board across the whole door frame on the other side vs just hooking to the other door, don't want to wind up with two bent doors.