Daily Driver Checklist

[OlSmokey]

Hi I have a 72 chevy c10. and I want to know, what is the major checklist for things to make my truck a daily driver and making sure it's reliable? I just need a list of things i can do to not be hastled with the truck breaking down in the city or on long road trips. i have a 350 in it with less than 1500 miles so the engine is good. but other things. what are other things that you need to have to make it a daily driver/? THANKS!

[In The Ten Ring]

I'll give this a shot, although I am just half way into making my "20 years in a garage" truck run again.

1). Fuel system: free of rust?
2). Engine turns over?
3). Carb rebuilt?
4).

You know, I'm the wrong man for this! We'd have to know a lot more info really.

[Jurassic-1]

If the engine is fresh you have a large part done. How is the starter,alternator,water pump, radiator and carburetor ? What type distributer is it Points or HEI? Is it an Automatic or stick? Are the brakes in good shape? If all the above is in good shape you should be good to go. Like all good drivers trucks need attention from time to time. I would not hesitate to drive it daily if you have these things covered.

[leftybass209]

I'm just about finished making mine a DD. It's really a long list. I'll post what I can remember off the top of my head.

All electrical functioning with no battery drains. Check grounds, and clean all connections.

Do the headlamp relay upgrade if you'll drive often at night. Have someone verify how bright your BU lamps and brake lights are. Make sure they're as bright as can be.

Convert to an internally regulated alternator

Ensure your horn, hazards, gauges, and dash lights function properly.

Make sure your parking brake works and inspect your brakes and lines for any leaks, chaffing, or cracked hoses.

Make sure your defroster is functioning

Ensure your truck can idle in traffic on hot days without overheating.

Ensure there are no steering box leaks.

Replace all suspension bushings if worn.

Flush the rear diff, possibly replace the bearings.

Other stuff like door seals and vent window seals aren't critical, but can make driving much more pleasant.

[greenmonsterC20]

Originally Posted by leftybass209

I'm just about finished making mine a DD. It's really a long list. I'll post what I can remember off the top of my head.

All electrical functioning with no battery drains. Check grounds, and clean all connections.

Do the headlamp relay upgrade if you'll drive often at night. Have someone verify how bright your BU lamps and brake lights are. Make sure they're as bright as can be.

Convert to an internally regulated alternator

Ensure your horn, hazards, gauges, and dash lights function properly.

Make sure your parking brake works and inspect your brakes and lines for any leaks, chaffing, or cracked hoses.

Make sure your defroster is functioning

Ensure your truck can idle in traffic on hot days without overheating.

Ensure there are no steering box leaks.

Replace all suspension bushings if worn.

Flush the rear diff, possibly replace the bearings.

Other stuff like door seals and vent window seals aren't critical, but can make driving much more pleasant.

Speaking from my experience:
Only thing i would add to this is Converting to HEI. Points left me stranded at a Highway Oasis for over 4 hours. I converted to HEI using an engine harness from classic parts and a Distributor from my past owned 80 impala with MSD coil, cap, rotor and module.

I also installed a 3 row, aluminum radiator from Champion. I'm running a stock clutch fan for now, but will upgrade to an electric and high flow water pump. Even with the good radiator my truck still got pretty hot while sitting in traffic on a 90 degree day.

[Shaky]

When I first get a "new" old vehicle I usually do things in stages:

Fluids, belts, hoses, etc: Not many people change the differential fluid and transmission fluid, so I usually do those right away. You get a peek in the diff, and get to see how much metal comes out with the xmsn fluid. I usually do a engine oil change too. Inspect the belts and hoses. Cooling system needs a flush too. Inspect the U-joints and the U-bolts for the rear. I've only had coil-spring rears, but the U-bolts corrode down in the pocket pretty bad around here. On my '67 they were half the diameter due to rust. My buddy's broke on the highway and he had a religious experience.

Brakes: Definitely want to look at those before depending on them. DOT3 brake fluid is hydrophilic (absorbs water), so old fluid usually has water in it. A fluid flush is a nice thing to do. I usually step on the brake pedal as hard as I can. Better to find a bad brake line now rather than on the road. Inspect the soft lines (remember the one at the rear). Lube emergency brake.

Tune-up: I throw the HEI in right away. That way I don't spend money on the points only to replace them with the HEI later. New plugs. New PCV. Check timing. Tune carb.

Install gauges: I like having something to watch...

Better headlights than the originals.

[Mr Handy]

I don't DD mine, but I did drive it to work twice this week... 40 miles each way with city stop and go and highway 50/50.

Get a fire extinguisher. I have seen 3 cars (or there burn marks) this year on the road that burnt to the ground.

If I was starting fresh, I would start with fluids, belts, & hoses. Then check how healthy the engine is, compression test and vacuum. Add HEI, plugs, set timing and tune. check carb while I am at it.

Then I would get into the brakes. check shoes/pads rotors/drums, MC, hoses, lines, & fluid.

Trans and gear oil would be next. change fluids clean and fix leaks.

Finally I would go through and hit every grease fitting on the truck, 15 on the front end? and U joints in the drive shaft. check all the joints and replace as needed.

That brings us to suspension. you should have gotten a good look and have driven some. Shocks and springs are fairly cheep so if they are questionable replace... I also say if you do ball joints, might as well do the front springs if they look crusty or saggy. Check alignment.

Finally you should have been fixing and cleaning up the wiring along the way whenever something was incorrect, damaged, or just not pretty. Now is a good time to go through and make sure wiring is 100%

Heck at this point you should be ready for paint and body.

Seriously, fluids, hoses, lines, electric, grease, brakes, tires, alignment, and throw an adjustable wrench and a flat blade screw driver in the glove box and you should be ok.

[bMr]

Lots of great advice above! Given that you're in Phoenix, have the radiator checked and rodded if necessary. Have a fan shroud. Ensure the steel brake lines are rust free, replace the rubber brake hoses and check calipers/wheel cylinders for weeping. Pack the wheel bearings. Replace aged tires.

I like RainX on the windshield and anti-fog on the inside.

[cdowns]

i'd pay special attention to the suspension and tire condition cause it doesn't matter how great it runs if the wheels fall off

[Lattimer]

Sound like they pretty much covered it, but tires/brakes/shocks/cooling/charging/gauges/fuel system are what I would look at the most. Thats the stuff that puts you on the side of the road most often.

[OlSmokey]

Just another reason i love this website. thank you all SO much for all of your suggestions. you're all the best.

[Jurassic-1]

There are a lot of places to get what you need around Phoenix.

[litew8]

I'd go over that new engine and re-torque the oil/transmission pan bolts etc... Something I need to do this year.

[5567Cruiser]

As far as cooling is concerned use a high flow water pump,fan shroud and largest radiator that will fit either aluminum or heavy duty AC stock radiator. Also filler panels in front of the radiator also help direct air flow through radiator and a pusher electric fan if needed.