Air ride and laying frame

[Rednwhitec20]

I am fairly new to the site but I bought my first truck last year (1971 c20) dropped a mild built 350 in it and now I plan on air ride and laying frame. I am wanting to do it right but on a budget too as I am 16 and have paid for every thing. Now with a dropmember I plan to go with porterbuilt as it seems the best. I know I have to c-notch the rear and buy an air ride system. With all of that being said what price range would I be in?
Thanks

[andrewmp6]

https://www.azproperformance.com/Pro...-Ride-Kit.html and that is with you doing all the work,If you pay a shop to do it kinda double the price to be in a good ball park.

[Rednwhitec20]

Will I need to switch to rack and pinion or should I stick with my power steering?

[PGSigns]

That setup will come with a rack. You will still need spindles, brakes (Complete system), a rear end if going to 5 lug, exhaust to fit up under the lowered truck, maybe a drive shaft, the parts to adapt your steering collum, wheels and tires, and a host of other bits and pieces. You could easily double the price of that kit. On a limited budget you could work this in stages. Convert the truck to 5 lug first, getting the spindles and front disc brakes and master cylinder done. Get a set of wheels and tires and drive the truck till your wallet recovers. Then buy the drop members and air ride as you can. Collect up all your parts over time and then do the truck. This is a big undertaking if you are going to do it on your own and looking in the projects section will give you some idea of the scope of this.
Jimmy

[andrewmp6]

Does your truck have leaf springs in the rear or does it have truck arms with coil springs?

[dec010974]

Rednwhitec20, stop looking at you tube. air ride c10 is costly. I did most of the research on this site and called a few vendors. I think, going the portebuilt route will ease the air ride transition because they have the blue print and a plan. I worked a from a half ass plan and ended here. the coins jumped out of my wallet. this is my truck at ride height. make sure you know your direction so that every penny spent is spent correctly. good luck and a have fun. I wish I would have went the porterbuilt route. I would have spent more, but quality is everything.

[Rednwhitec20]

Rear leafs

[Rednwhitec20]

With the porterbuilt dropmember can I use stock a arms and drop spindles?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Rednwhitec20

With the porterbuilt dropmember can I use stock a arms and drop spindles?

Our current version does not allow the use of factory arms. You can still order our version 5 that will allow you to use the factory lower off a 73-87 C10 and the factory upper off a 63-87 C10.

So the answer is yes and no!

[Rednwhitec20]

Thanks! Can I have a link to it please!

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Rednwhitec20

Thanks! Can I have a link to it please!

The version 5 is a special order and is not currently listed on the site. You can shoot Cousin Dave an email for more info.... Dave@pbfab.com

Thanks!
Nate

[Rednwhitec20]

Thanks for your help! I will get it ordered within the next month or so!

[Rednwhitec20]

Will my c20 upper arms work?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Rednwhitec20

Will my c20 upper arms work?

Yes, the C20 uppers will work, but the C20 lowers will not.

[Rednwhitec20]

Alright! I plan on ordering my drop member soon! Thanks again!

[broey]

Originally Posted by Rednwhitec20

I am fairly new to the site but I bought my first truck last year (1971 c20) dropped a mild built 350 in it and now I plan on air ride and laying frame. I am wanting to do it right but on a budget too as I am 16 and have paid for every thing. Now with a dropmember I plan to go with porterbuilt as it seems the best. I know I have to c-notch the rear and buy an air ride system. With all of that being said what price range would I be in?
Thanks

I have laid a few trucks out now, And every time I say this someone tries to tell me I'm wrong. but, Im not..lol. it costs about $800-$1000 and inch to lay a truck out correctly. you can obviously find ways to pinch pennies along the way. but it is honestly a very good idea of what a normal person would pay. keep in mind I am talking about 100% finished

there are so many hidden costs involved that people tend to forget about. so let me just go over some of the more major things to think about.

1. removing the body? probably going to need new body mount bushings
2. switching to rack n pinion? you need new hoses for your p/s pump
3. steering shaft doesn't line up? now you need steering joints
4. air management? tons of fittings, pressure switch, air line.
5. valves and switch box
6. need to mount your tank and compressors? better get mounting plates
7. relocating your gas tank? now you need new fuel lines, sending unit
and lets not forget now you also need to do something about the gas cap that
is no longer functional. better shave it? (or just leave it there and save some
bucks)
8. raising the bed floor? might as well get new bedwood. but now your fenders
won't fit, they need to me modded
9. speaking of fenders, you're going to have to remove the front inners, you
could just leave the area open, but to finish the truck completely better get a
set of slosh tubz..
10. gonna switch to 5 lug? new brakes up front, with brakelines since they need
to travel more. rear brake lines will need to be modded for the axle movement
11. going to need to get your driveshaft lengthened or shortened depending on
your set up.


I could keep going and going.... I'm not at all trying to deter you either, I just wanted to make sure you don't take a driver apart until you've got all your ducks in a row.

you are already a head of the game by using porterbuilt. I would also recommend the pb rear kit to save yourself time and headaches. good luck with the build, and get your friends involved to help speed the process!! free labor and good times makes for great memories!!

[Rednwhitec20]

Thanks! I know it will be costly, very costly. But in the end it will be bad ass. I plan on getting porterbuilt all the way around I plan on keeping 8 lugs just to keep it 3/4 ton style. Keeping gas tank in cab. I plan on doing it in stages, front, rear, then buy an air management accuair system. I will need a new wooden bed also. I will keep the forum updated but it will be a long journey as i am broke. But it will be done correctly.

[PGSigns]

If you plan to leave it 8 lug you should talk to Nate before you get to far. This is to make sure the parts you get will work with the Eaton rear and the 3/4 ton front spindles. Also with the swap to trailing arms you will need the stuff to convert your leaf rear to coils.
Jimmy

[dec010974]

broey, you said a mouth full. very detailed.

[Rednwhitec20]

The rear is going to be a 4 link not trailing arms thanks though. And my dropmember includes drop spindles.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Rednwhitec20

The rear is going to be a 4 link not trailing arms thanks though. And my dropmember includes drop spindles.

Let's just make sure we are on the same page....

If you want to keep the C20 8 lug pattern up front, then you would need to run one of our C20 lower control arms.

The C20 ball joints will not go into a C10 lower control arm, as the ball joint housing is much bigger. The uppers will, but the lowers will not.

That would be an extra expense.

Nate

[Rednwhitec20]

Originally Posted by PBFAB.COM

Let's just make sure we are on the same page....

If you want to keep the C20 8 lug pattern up front, then you would need to run one of our C20 lower control arms.

The C20 ball joints will not go into a C10 lower control arm, as the ball joint housing is much bigger. The uppers will, but the lowers will not.

That would be an extra expense.

Nate

Can I just run 73-87 c20 arms?
Posted via Mobile Device

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Rednwhitec20

Can I just run 73-87 c20 arms?
Posted via Mobile Device

You can't. Reason being is that the 73-87 C10 lower arm has a certain bushing and dimension that works with the cross-shaft design of the Version 5 Dropmember. The C20 arms have a steel bushing that is not compatible.

Best advice would be to work hard and save up some money... WHILE you make a solid game plan for the project. Regardless of what route you go, it will be expensive, and the ONLY way to help keep the project on track and not waste any of your hard earned money will be by having a SOLID project plan. I cannot emphasize this more.

There's a ton of information here on the site, and even more helpful, experienced truck enthusiasts who are more than willing to share their knowledge and experience.

Nate

[Rednwhitec20]

Originally Posted by PBFAB.COM

You can't. Reason being is that the 73-87 C10 lower arm has a certain bushing and dimension that works with the cross-shaft design of the Version 5 Dropmember. The C20 arms have a steel bushing that is not compatible.

Best advice would be to work hard and save up some money... WHILE you make a solid game plan for the project. Regardless of what route you go, it will be expensive, and the ONLY way to help keep the project on track and not waste any of your hard earned money will be by having a SOLID project plan. I cannot emphasize this more.

There's a ton of information here on the site, and even more helpful, experienced truck enthusiasts who are more than willing to share their knowledge and experience.

Nate

Can I just use c10 arms upper and lower then?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by broey

I have laid a few trucks out now, And every time I say this someone tries to tell me I'm wrong. but, Im not..lol. it costs about $800-$1000 and inch to lay a truck out correctly. you can obviously find ways to pinch pennies along the way. but it is honestly a very good idea of what a normal person would pay. keep in mind I am talking about 100% finished

there are so many hidden costs involved that people tend to forget about. so let me just go over some of the more major things to think about.

1. removing the body? probably going to need new body mount bushings
2. switching to rack n pinion? you need new hoses for your p/s pump
3. steering shaft doesn't line up? now you need steering joints
4. air management? tons of fittings, pressure switch, air line.
5. valves and switch box
6. need to mount your tank and compressors? better get mounting plates
7. relocating your gas tank? now you need new fuel lines, sending unit
and lets not forget now you also need to do something about the gas cap that
is no longer functional. better shave it? (or just leave it there and save some
bucks)
8. raising the bed floor? might as well get new bedwood. but now your fenders
won't fit, they need to me modded
9. speaking of fenders, you're going to have to remove the front inners, you
could just leave the area open, but to finish the truck completely better get a
set of slosh tubz..
10. gonna switch to 5 lug? new brakes up front, with brakelines since they need
to travel more. rear brake lines will need to be modded for the axle movement
11. going to need to get your driveshaft lengthened or shortened depending on
your set up.


I could keep going and going.... I'm not at all trying to deter you either, I just wanted to make sure you don't take a driver apart until you've got all your ducks in a row.

you are already a head of the game by using porterbuilt. I would also recommend the pb rear kit to save yourself time and headaches. good luck with the build, and get your friends involved to help speed the process!! free labor and good times makes for great memories!!

I can help with number 8.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=676606 Check out my ChubTubz: