nv3500 in a 88 suburban, clutch issues

[laidlow91]

so heres the whole story to date.

88 2wd suburban.
used nv3500 out of a 94 c1500, external slave trans.

pedal setup is used, out of a c10.
clutch master cyl is new aftermarket for a c10.
clutch m/c fitting converted to -3an.
1 pce 60" long braided -3 line from m/c to slave.
slve cyl fitting converted to -3an.
new aftermarket slave cyl.
new aftermarket clutch fork.
new aftermarket clutch, throw out bearing, and pilot.
new aftermarket flywheel.

originally had troubles bleeding the hyd system, which seems to be common for these systems.
finally got good pedal feel, and the clutch fork was getting good travel looking through the inspection hole.

start truck and try to put it in gear, goes in hard and wheels start spinning with clutch pushed in.
with the clutch pushed in i put my foot on the brake, the wheels stop, and the rpms drop about 100.

search the interwebs and try every method of bleeding the system i can find, EXCEPT vac, or press bleed.

talk to a bunch of friends, and a trans shop guy trying to fig out my problem.
the trans guy leads me to believe its one of the new aftermarket parts on the inside.
so i pull the trans out, do side by side comparisons of the old stuff i pulled out of the trans and the new aftermarket stuff.
the clutch forks end up being visually different enough for me to think ive found the problem.
put it back together with the stock fork and the new aftermarket throw out bearing, the stock bearing is junk.
while its apart i notice the slave is wet on the inside like the piston seal is leaking.
get a new aftermarket slave and replace the leaking one.
put it all back together.
the new slave bleeds better then the one it replaced, and the pedal has even better feel.
so im sure ive found my problem...
start the truck...... and its the exact same way it was before.....

so thats my story.
not sure if theres still air in the system i cant get out?
is the c10 m/c doesnt push the fluid needed to operate the 90s slave?
is one of the aftermarket parts bad?

im really hoping to drive this thing before the end of the season.
and dont have the time or the money to keep throwing parts at it hoping i fig out whats wrong.

[97z7uno]

was wondering if you ever figured out your problem did the same swap to my 97 z71 and haven't found any write ups on it. any help would be great!

[kalbert]

Clutches are darnd hard to bleed because they are much closer to 1:1 than brakes. I've had the best luck bench bleeding the entire system and bolting it all on as a unit. Doing it on the bench you can move the air pockets around with gravity, and you have very fine feeling with your hands for how much squish there is vs trying to feel it with your feet. Another trick if the system can't be installed as a unit is to do the bleeding from the slave end. Open the bleeder, force the piston all the way in, close the bleeder and pull it back out drawing fluid from the reservoir.

[1774btcrew]

Is the pin on the clutch pedal worn? I rebuild a lot of these and it is a very common problem.

[97z7uno]

I bought a prebled system off of car I'd and still having the problem. Clutch was installed and torqued to spec. Used everything from the kit I got. Throwout installed correct. I'm beginning to think that the fork is either bent or ball stud in worn a significant amount and not getting complete throw. Sorry for stealing post. But this is the first write up I've found of someone with same problem.