"Burrari" my first project, 70 c10 swb

[HellaciousA]

Hi everyone,

I've been heavily in the LSX scene for the past 10+ years, and got sick of dealing with smog limiting how much horsepower I can make in my 04 GTO. I've invested too much in that car to just let it go, so I picked up this 70 C10 last night as a new project. After spending some time today underneath and poking around, I've definitely got my hands full with numerous issues to address.

Unfortunately, the SPID sticker on the glove box door is from another truck as the VIN doesn't match the left pillar plate in the jamb. I was able to decode the VIN, which lists it as a 70 GMC C10, made at the Fremont plant that left the factory with a V8. So I guess at some point, someone swapped grilles and put a chevy tailgate on it.

It's been difficult to find trucks out here that aren't rust buckets, so I was happy to find this one locally in Sun Valley for a decent price.

The truck has a lot of issues, and I originally wanted to correct the main ones to make it safely driveable, but after taking a close look at it today, I don't think it's worth it.

My goal is to make it a semi-pro tourer and keep the outside stock looking. I like the ride height it has right now, but whoever lowered it before me didn't do an alignment and the truck rides extremely poor and is pulling hard to the left. Someone also relocated the gas tank under the bed and filled in the old fuel filler. It's a hack job to say the least, and it doesn't seem safe at all.

I plan to swap in a 5.3 motor with a 4L80E along with a single turbo. Goal is to make 6-700 wheel horsepower. I'm interested in installing the hotchkis TVS setup for the suspension and getting a decent set of brakes on it so I don't kill myself with all the power. The truck currently has a 350/TH350 combo in it that I want to yank out and sell to help fund the new mods.

I'm 32 and I've done a lot of tinkering on my cars over the years, but by far this is my biggest undertaking. I'm a bit nervous after seeing all the problems thus far, but I work at a body shop, and any body work I will be saving for last. I'm looking for any advice on what areas would be best to tackle first, so here's my plan. Feel free to critique.


The bad:
-Ebrake cables are cut for some reason and dangling
-Door locks push up when closing the doors, I'm hoping they are just installed wrong and I can adjust the linkage
-All park lamps work except brake lights
-Rats nest of wiring under the dash
-Tons of self tapping screws everywhere in the bed floor and on cab floor
-Super sketchy suspension
-Bed bolts to frame are hand tight, some are totally loose
-At least 3-4 layers of paint on the truck, and the current coat of primer is cracking badly.
-Drip rails are a bit bent and separating from roof skin.
-There's some mickey mouse work on the rear frame rails were someone swiss chessed the end of the rails while fitting the fuel tank that was put in
-Someone also clearanced the front frame rails for the headers that are on it now.

The good:
-It is a genuine short wide and a factory a/c equipped truck. No major rust/rot that I can see, aside from a small hole in the left rocker by the cab corner.
-Someone already converted it to 5 lug and it has disc brakes up front/drum in the rear
-Interior has a nice bench seat with newer upholestery and newer door trim panels, and floor carpet, and dash pad
-Glass is fairly clean and has newish looking felts and weatherstripping


Do you guys think it would be best to start with yanking the carb motor and trans, and start sorting out the suspension, brakes, rear end, fuel tank, etc in preparation for the LS swap? I don't know what rear is in the truck, or if it's worth rebuilding to hold 6-700 horsepower. I know this site has a ton of info so I'm sure I'll be able to ID it. I'd also like to re-wire the chassis as well since it's been spliced and hacked up many times over, don't know what the best sequence would be for that also.

I've heard No Limit makes good suspension setups, so maybe it would be best to pull the bed off and remove all the stuff on it now, clean up the frame rails real nice and install those parts first, then work my way forward to the engine bay, and front suspension.

I've got a good air compressor and air tools along with a pretty good assortment of hand tools, so I'm excited to get started, but I don't want to rush through this and cut corners like the previous owners have. Any tips or advice will be appreciated. I'll do my best to update this as I work on it as well. Here's some photos of the Burrari (that name will probably be changed as well--it's just a funny sticker the prior owner had on the back glass).

[cooperhw]

Nice. I am subscribing to follow along. I have a LS-2 in my Chevelle and am also planning to put one (hopefully turbo) in one of my trucks some day. Love those LS motors, especially once you put a huge cam in it.

[slowcpe]

Welcome! Reading this reminds me very much to the start of my build. Here's a couple of things I've learned along the way:

I spent pretty much all of last year and too much money trying to sort out a few things to get my truck drive-able. In the end I tore it down to the state it's in now and building it right the first time.

Building it right the first time might not be the best way to go Its now going to cost a whole lot more money and take more time than I originally hoped for. But it'll be the truck I want.

Also finding this board is either really good...or really bad. There are a ton of great trucks, a wealth of info, and some really good dudes on here. However it can have a tendency to cause your project to spiral out of control. Trust me, I speak from experience

In all seriousness, you may want to check the VIN on the frame rail and see if it matches the glove box or VIN on the inside of the driver's door. My first truck ended up being a '67 swb frame and VIN tag but a complete '71 long bed body.

Good Luck!

[notsolo]

WELCOME ......My 2 cents ...If your going to drive it at all, fix the e brake, safety 1st....45 years of PO's leaves a lot of questionable upgrades...If your going to jump in on the motor and suspension, lift the body off, repair and beef up the frame, Looks like a decent straight truck,... Enjoy.

[TexasLS1]

Welcome from another LS guy (I sold my '01 Camaro SS a few years back ). I'll follow along! What fun would a new toy be without PO hack-jobs?? Most of us can only dream....

[HellaciousA]

I've had some time to start doing some measurements it definitely appears the frame is off in the rear by about 1" on the right rail (too high). Width wise in the rear, it's swayed inwards by about 3/4" (by going off the factory measurements I found in the service manual).

Standing behind the truck, you can definitely see it has the gangster lean going on the left side of the truck. Measuring from the bottom of the wheel opening on each side also confirms the same height difference as the frame.

Although the VIN tag on the truck cab and the title match as a genuine short wide, the number on the driver front frame rail is "7Z18558" doesn't match the last 5 digits of the VIN. I've also found that the rear frame rails have rather jagged edges on the rear and some plates welded on at some point. Does this look like a long bed frame that has been cut down at some point? Does anyone have any comparison photos I could compare mine too?

Given how much hacked up stuff I'm finding in the rear, I'm seriously considering putting on the No Limit raised rear rail kit and re-doing the bed floor. If the frame is not the original one, I won't feel so bad about cutting it up. I don't know where else to look to see if the numbers match. I plan to take the bed off over the next week or 2 and look closer.

Here's some shots of the rear rails:






And here's the PO's lowering kit (the blocks are 1"), but I can't find a brand on any of the parts.




Here you can really see how bad it's leaning to the left:

[TexasLS1]

Looks like the frame was cut and stuff's been swapped around. Looking back at your vin plate, the rivets don't appear to be the factory rosette(sp?) type. Are there cuts/plates welded on the frame near the rear of the cab? I believe converting from long to short bed requires cutting near there? Someone more knowledgable should chime in soon...

[HellaciousA]

Originally Posted by TexasLS1

Looks like the frame was cut and stuff's been swapped around. Looking back at your vin plate, the rivets don't appear to be the factory rosette(sp?) type. Are there cuts/plates welded on the frame near the rear of the cab? I believe converting from long to short bed requires cutting near there? Someone more knowledgable should chime in soon...

Do you have any photos of other VIN plates so I can compare? I looked all up and down the sides of the rails and I can't find any evidence of cutting/welding. Aside from the rails being clearanced for headers in the engine bay, the only other evidence I've found is somewhat of a jagged edge on the rear of the frame rails behind the bumper, and some metal tabs that had been welded on the rear of the frame.

After decoding the VIN on the frame, it's a 67 frame built in Fremont, CA.

The more I look at it, the more I think swapping in the rear rail kit from No Limit is the way to go, and putting in the wide ride IFS in the front. The bed floor is shot and full of pin holes from self tappers that its not worth saving. Someone also notched out the bed crossmembers for the crappy gas tank that was installed.

I picked up a cherry picker from harbor freight, and I got the bed unbolted and wiring disconnected. It's ready to come off, just need some help removing it. Then I can get a closer look at the rear rails and decide what's best to do. As much as I would like to drop 10k on aftermarket frame, it's not financially possible.

[indymachinist]

I don't have any pictures of what the "right" rivets are supposed to look like, but I agree that the ones on your vin plate are not original.

[TexasLS1]

Here's a thread with a pic - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...Rosette+rivets. They look like a star or flower instead of round. So it sounds like your frame is an original SWB since there aren't cuts near the center, probably just got banged up in an accident. The No Limit rear frame kit would be awesome, they definitely make great stuff, and the tweaked frame gives you a good reason to jump on it! I know how it goes with limited funds tho. Glad to hear you're making progress with getting ready to take the bed off!

[HellaciousA]

Another update, sorry for not posting anything last week. I got the bed off last weekend. Not surprisingly, I found more mickey mouse work. The exhaust was rubbing the driveshaft badly, and also jammed up into the rear crossmember. Plus someone welded mounts for the tail pipes directly to the bed. I had to cut those off first to get the bed off.

I've also gone ahead and chopped all the exhaust out as I'll be redoing it all anyways. Truck sounds beefy at idle open header, and like a tractor under throttle haha.

I bought a cherry picker from harbor freight and a tranny jack adapter for my floor jack. Going to pull the trans out first and then the motor. This is my first time yanking an engine out so I don't want to risk hurting myself or damaging the truck by taking it out as a unit. Goal is to have the motor out by Sunday. Going to start tomorrow morning.

I think one of the rear shock is blown as well, which may be throwing off my measurements on the frame. Either way, I discovered a large notch cut in the left rear rail for the filler neck. So I am sold on the no limit rear rail kit, I just don't know what rear suspension set up to use.

1. Keep it stock style and use new bushings, shock relocator kit, and no limit panhard rod, and re-use the rear axle in the truck

or

2. Fat bar 4 link setup and go with their moser 9" setup that's already got the brackets and everything ready to go.

I know the main difference is going to be cost, but my rear trailing arms are all bent and have chunks cut out by the previous owner to clear the exhaust. I want the truck to handle, and I don't want it on bags. Any input on this from those who have done either setup, feel free to share.

[HellaciousA]

Got the motor and trans out yesterday. Went really easy.





Next, I'll start working on pulling out the wiring, radiator, and cleaning up the engine bay.

I plan to run the no limit Wide Ride IFS up front, but I haven't purchased anything yet. I'll most likely start in the rear and then move up to the front.

[HellaciousA]

I've got the motor and trans up for sale and I hate dealing with the craigslist flakes trying to low ball.

Anyways, I removed all the engine bay wiring and chassis wiring. All that is left wiring wise is inside the cab. I also pulled the radiator out and the rusted out battery tray. I love how simple these trucks are (I work on European cars during the day).

I noticed that someone has hacked away parts of the frame rails (areas in red below). I'm concerned there isn't a lot metal underneatht he motor mounts. Will this be an issue if I want to run one of the aftermarket bolt in drop members?

The only fix would be to buy some steel and weld it on. Without bracing/boxing in the rails at those points, butt welding a plate on wouldn't be strong enough to fix anything. I'd rather not have to box the rails in, so if anyone else has seen this, chime in.

[71swb4x4]

Someone put together a truck from a lot of parts. Who cares. Now you can make it whatever you want without any worry about chopping up some rare numbers matching truck. You have a solid body on the truck, go wild and make the truck exactly what you want.

[cooperhw]

Both of the areas behind the crossmember are where the headers would rub. I wouldn't worry about it now, wait till you decide what you are going to use for a crossmember. You can always box the area if needed. As to the back half of the frame I would look closely to see how it's put together and any bad welding. Might be better off to re-graft a better/cleaner back section onto it. Pretty cheap to buy an old long bed frame. Just a thought.
Keep us posted with updates.

[Xeen]

From what I understand there is nothing wrong with butt welding in steel to restore the factory profile of the rail as long as you grind an angle into the edges of both pieces and get full penetration on your weld for maximum strength, keep in mind with that much damage already done and the structural integrity already compromised it's unlikely that you could make it worse by repairing it if it's done properly.

[raggedjim]

Not that it matters, but those lower a-arms and the rear springs are probably from DJM suspension.

They paint all their stuff with a Hammerite paint.

Rg

[HellaciousA]

Progress has been a bit slow, but still making some though. Got all the old nasty fuel lines out and the dented up fuel tank removed.





For some reason none of the cab to frame bolts are tight and I can wiggle the bushings/bolts all over the place. PO must have really loved self tappers as they are literally everywhere, and not one piece of sheet metal doesn't have holes from where they were. A few years from now I'll deal with painting it and fixing all that. For now I just want to get it driving in the next year.

So next steps will be getting it into my garage so I can get the rear end off, level the rear frame and start buying the parts I need for the No Limit rear rail kit. I'm sticking with the stock trailing arm setup, so I'll be using No Limit's shock relocation kit and their panhard rod. Does anyone know if it's worth it to upgrade the trailing arms to the tubular style CPP has or one of the boxed ones? The stock ones I have are bent and in bad shape.

I guess now would be the time to also clean up the rear diff, find out what axles, posi (if there is even one) and rear ratio. I'd like to convert it to rear disc, and I'm also going to have to buy a whole new parking brake setup from the front to rear as it's missing a bunch of stuff.

[lolife99]

Porterbuilt also makes some really nice trailing arms and rear suspension components.
Check out ALL of their products at www.pbfab.com.

[HellaciousA]

I spent some time and pulled out the broken a/c system. Found a lovely mice nest inside the dash. I also finally discovered the factory color of the cab, which is orange. Pretty cool. I bought some block off plates from ebay that cover everything up nicely. I'll install those soon, I just need to buy some butyl tape or adhesive and some hardware. I also found some minor rust near the blower motor. Not too severe, but will likely need to be cut out and a new piece grafted in.





I'm also trying to decide if I should pull the front sheetmetal and cab off and roll the frame into my garage. That way I can clean up the frame and it'll be a lot easier to work on. Not really sure as I don't have a lot of space to store the cab and front sheet metal.

After that I'll likely start ordering the no limit parts and get this thing rolling.

[HellaciousA]

2 months have gone by and I've got the truck totally gutted now. So much for just swapping the engine and trans and driving it. This has now turned into a complete frame off restoration. I found too much hack work, so now I'm at peace with starting from scratch and this taking a couple years to complete.

In hindsight, I should have just bought a no limit pro 10 frame and found a cab. I'm selling off all the parts I won't need. It sucks dealing with the flakes on craigslist. Anyways, I'm ready to separate the cab as soon as soon as I get some of the parts sold so I have room to set it down. I'm going to send it out for media blasting as soon as I make some headway on the frame.

Frame has some bends on the bottom of the rails from improper floor jack placement. I also found underneath the front crossmember that the rails were cut back, not sure why someone would do that. One of the round radiator support mounts is cracked too. I'm hoping to pick up a welder soon and start practicing.

[TexasLS1]

Haven't seen any updates on your build in awhile, have you been able to make any progress?

[HellaciousA]

I pulled the cab off the frame and sold off a bunch of parts that I won't be needing. I also called No Limit and got some prices on everything. In the mean time, I also took a welding class to learn the basics of MIG welding, and I decided to finish 2 of the last mods I had planned for my 04 gto before I dive head first back into the c10. I needed a new driveshaft and bought a set of kw coilovers for the goat.

I'm at the point where I'm ready to start buying parts to get the chassis into a roller and get the frame painted. From there I'll need to media blast the cab and buy a motor/trans, etc.

I'm hoping to have the rolling chassis going by the end of summer, just can't afford to drop another $5-6k on parts right now unfortunately.

[AKC]

I hope you kept the "Burrari" sticker...

Nice work so far!

[jamie72]

nice start, dont throw away those engine frame mounts, look like fac.72 big block mounts.