Welding up the holes where side trim was.

['65 chevy lover]

I've been thinking about welding up the holes where the side trim goes. Is this an easy thing to do? Does it cause a lot of extra work?

[LostMy65]

Take a nail, slip it in from the back side, spot weld, cut off shank, grind smooth.

[cru_zn_29]

Don't get the metal too hot. I have used a hole punch 1/4 or 5/16 or what ever size your hole is and a scrap body panel. Punch out the plug put pug in the hole i tig weld them in.Small welds then let it cool completely Don't get in a hurry you will have a mess. Yes it is a lot of work.

[aotte1]

If you have the parts off or have access to the back of the panel to weld from, you can use a 1/8 inch thick piece of pure copper held on the face of the panel. This will give you a very close to flush weld. Once the copper cools it will fall off. Weld to the metal, not the copper, puddle runs onto the copper.

Good idea to practice on scrape metal a couple times, get technique down first.

[Fredthecat]

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[Brad54]

x2 on the copper.
I use a piece of plumbing copper from Home Depot. Hammer one end flat, round the corners, and then put a bend in it to make a spatula.

Works like a charm.

It WILL become a heat-sink though and the handle get hot... I drilled a few holes through the tubing, like the screen on semi truck stacks or the shield on a .50 cal machine gun. They radiate the heat away and you can hold it with your bare hand while welding.

-Brad

[argonaut]

I used a cheap copper welding spoon from harbor freight. I didn't hear about the nail trick until after I did my doors and fenders. Sounds interesting and next time I'll try it. Just be sure to used raw nails, not coated or galvanized.

[Improbcat]

I bought a cab with the side trim to replace the one without on my truck. There is how I welded up the holes.



Circle cut from sheet metal, held in place with a welding magnet.



Welded up and ground smooth enough for filler.

I have to say though, the nail trick sounds interesting.

[scum1]

i used some steel screws that fit the holes on mine. turned out good. pretty easy as well.

['65 chevy lover]

I just got an idea for plugging the holes for side trim. The idea is to use metal pieces about 1/2-1" bigger than the hole and using something like J-B weld to stick it in place and then, filling the hole with more J-B weld or bondo. This would avoid the heat of welding and the potential for warping the panel. What ya'll think about that? Good idea or....Dumb idea?

['63GENIII]

Duct tape backing and Bondo? LOL, just messing with you.

I have heard of guys taking a piece of thick flat copper, holding it tight against the backside of the hole and then welding the hole up. The weld doesn't stick to the copper and the copper helps to keep the hole from blowing out while you're welding. Ive never tried it myself but for the cost of a small piece of copper (maybe electrical buss bar), I'd be willing to try it.

[thunder71]

I would not use jb weld for anything...your plugs will fall off then you have holes...weld them up slow

[LostMy65]

There's some ideas in this thread :
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=684723

[NevEno]

You can buy a copper plate with magnets in it.. Just go slow.. I used one on my door skins without warpage

['65 chevy lover]

Yeah, I kinda thought it wouldn't be a great idea, but might be worth a shot. I just really want to go without the side trim but, don't want to screw up the panels and cause myself a LOT of extra work. Thanks to all for the input!

[markeb01]

Here's an older thread that may be helpful:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...hlight=jb+weld

I've used JB Weld all over my truck and it works great, and permanently. The key to success is cleanliness. Everything needs to be spotless, and JB Weld sticks permanently.

[joedoh]

I used to shave the emblems on my minitrucks with jb weld and the change in my pocket haha. I think there was even a magazine how-to written on it.

[LostMy65]

I do remember someone posting about using a dime.
Steel on the outside and copper inside.

[Brad54]

Originally Posted by '63GENIII

Duct tape backing and Bondo? LOL, just messing with you.

I have heard of guys taking a piece of thick flat copper, holding it tight against the backside of the hole and then welding the hole up. The weld doesn't stick to the copper and the copper helps to keep the hole from blowing out while you're welding. Ive never tried it myself but for the cost of a small piece of copper (maybe electrical buss bar), I'd be willing to try it.

It's not even that difficult: Just go to Home Depot or any other hardware store and buy a 1-foot length of copper tubing and hammer one end flat. Then put a 30-45 degree bend in the flat piece, and done.

If you want to go OCD on it, found the corners of the flat end, and then drill a few 3/8-inch holes through the handle after the flat to radiate the heat away from your hand. (it'll wick the heat up to your hand otherwise.)

Without the holes, it gets hot even through gloves after a while.
With the holes you can hold it bare-handed and weld all day.

-Brad

[thunder71]

Yes if you can't weld then glue it together should last forever

['65 chevy lover]

Thanks a lot to all for the advise! I can do the welding, no problem but, was just thinking ( sometimes that's dangerous I know...LOL) that using an epoxy type adhesive would mean I wouldn't have to worry about screwing up the panels with heat.