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09-18-2003, 11:40 PM
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#1 |
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Before and After
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Leduc, Alberta CANADA
Posts: 632
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C - Notch drawings
Some one must have a rough drawing on how to build yuor own C-Notch kit. They don't look that complex, or is there more to them than I see.
I would like to get a pair made by a welder, so I can install them when I get my truck back. This would save time for me, as it isn't registered or insured while it is being constructed. Are they short box ones different than long box ones? How thick is the steel? Any info would help a lot of us trying to save a buck.
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Not Grandpa's C-20 anymore... 383 Stroker 425HP, 485Ft/Lbs Lowered 3.5" Front / 5" Rear 66,000 miles. Alberta, CANADA |
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09-19-2003, 12:06 AM
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#2 |
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i love summertime
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Kelowna BC
Posts: 4,302
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wb72, im sure the shortbox and longbox c notch kits are identical, also i dont see why you would need any materials thicker then 1/4 inch, i dont think frames are even that thick, also ive seen bolt on kits but being a welder/fabricator id strongly suggest welding them in solid...it would be a lot stronger that way, sorry i dont have any pictures
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1967 shortbox stepside Chevy, 365 hp 327, th400. GLOVE BOX LIGHTS FORSALE, click link for info http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=273724 |
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09-19-2003, 12:08 AM
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#3 |
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Low & Slow
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,047
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I've heard of people cutting a large diameter pipe in half and using it as a notch. I think that would be the cheapest way if you can weld. I don't know if it leaves the frame weak around the notch though...
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70' C-10 LWB Fleetside 4.5/6 drop 
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09-19-2003, 07:55 AM
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: BRADENTON FLA
Posts: 3,269
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We use 3/16 steel plate and heat it till its malable and form it over a 4" pipe then weld it in and plate the inside rail to box that section. To find your center point on coil rears pull the coils and let the frame lay on the axle and mark the frame, leaf springs take a piece of wire or string and hold it at the front spring eye to axle center then arc it up to the frame still holding it on the spring eye and mark it. Do not make a full pass weld, tack it 3/8" or so and move to another spot letting it cool.
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Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times. |
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09-19-2003, 09:31 AM
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#5 |
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Before and After
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Leduc, Alberta CANADA
Posts: 632
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If I remember correctly, the frame isn't straight there. Is that correct?
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Not Grandpa's C-20 anymore... 383 Stroker 425HP, 485Ft/Lbs Lowered 3.5" Front / 5" Rear 66,000 miles. Alberta, CANADA |
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09-19-2003, 10:10 AM
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#6 |
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Account Suspended
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: over yonder
Posts: 14,270
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that is correct ... the frame is NOT straight in that area.
I used a piece of 6.000" steel pipe, cut in half and did just as MotherTruckers stated. |
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09-19-2003, 10:12 AM
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#7 |
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Happy to be here
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 39,021
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Heres how mine was done. It's on a 77, but the same concept applies...
 
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Follow me on Facebook and Instagram @N2trux.com Articles- "Jake" the 84 to 74 crewcab "Elwood" the77_Remix 85 GMC Sierra "Scarlett" "Refining Sierra" |
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09-19-2003, 10:14 AM
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#8 |
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Happy to be here
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 39,021
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I guess it's hard to tell from the pic, but it has a boxing plate welded in the inside of the frame rail. The plate is about 20" long....
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09-19-2003, 07:50 PM
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: BRADENTON FLA
Posts: 3,269
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Put the plate against the frame and scribe it, then deduct the frame thickness and cut the plate to fit and weld it in, grind the welds and it looks like a factory job.
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Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times. |
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