I don't think my truck steers well.

[jcblue]

I have a 72 swb.. Trying to figure out the reason it doesn't steer well.. It's lowered 5/7 possibly the geometry of the front end? I bought a cheaper column from cpp vs spending the dough on an ididit one and it seems to have some play in it.. Had the truck aligned but you really have to pay attention when driving, it will walk all over the place.. Anyone else have some input? Thanks

[hamjet]

First, who did the allignment. with a 5 inch drop unless you have lowering spindles it will be hard (I think) to get camber right. could the slop be in the rag joint, steering box or other parts? it doesn't have to be from a cheaper column.

[jcblue]

A reputable shop did the alignment and it was dropped with spindles and springs.. Could be the power steering box I suppose.

[Heavymetl]

The Redhead steering box on my truck is likely my favorite part. Zero slop, good ratio, no "following the road" nonsense. They're pricey but worth every cent IMO.

[3drburb]

Do you have a front sway bar and a long pan hard bar in the rear? Also check your tires for uneven wear.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by jcblue

I have a 72 swb.. Trying to figure out the reason it doesn't steer well.. It's lowered 5/7 possibly the geometry of the front end? I bought a cheaper column from cpp vs spending the dough on an ididit one and it seems to have some play in it.. Had the truck aligned but you really have to pay attention when driving, it will walk all over the place.. Anyone else have some input? Thanks

I don't know what "bump steer" actually does but could you have that maybe?

LockDoc

[tcrist]

Remember that when you do a spring drop (or raise as would be for the 4X4's) it changes the angle of the connecting / track rod.

The connecting / track rod should be flat / horizontal. Raising or lowering and not changing to a longer or shorter pitman arm will allow the connecting / track bar to be at an angle. This then allows the track bar to move up and down before actually moving / turning the tires.

[midniteblues]

It's very easy to install the center link backwards. Be sure you have it in correctly.
Kinda sounds like what your describeing.

[jcblue]

I do have the front sway bar and the long rear trac bar. Tcrist I'm interested in the pitman arm thing.. I did replace mine but with a stock one.. I will also check out the redhead gearbox

[jcblue]

I will take a pic of the center link.. How can I tell?

[joeydurango]

+1 on Redhead steering gear boxes. Good stuff.

I don't know anything about dropped trucks, but sounds like above posters do...

Finally, don't necessarily trust that the alignment was done well. I had my truck aligned twice (once paid, once free because the first one was terrible) before giving up on the shop and doing it myself. All the alignment shop had to say was "this truck isn't in the computer", but even after I gave them the proper specs they couldn't get it right. Funny, drove a lot better after I got done with it. You might measure your toe-in yourself just to see where they set it, it could feel pretty "wander-y" if it were wrong. The alignment shop set mine precisely backwards (that is, toe-OUT!).

[jcblue]

Went out to look at my truck and take pics of Cheney link.

[jcblue]

Another.

[jcblue]

I do have the front end up on jack stands with the wheels hanging.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by jcblue

I do have the front end up on jack stands with the wheels hanging.

I think you will have to have the jack stands outboard on the lower a-arms to be able to tell if anything is amiss.... The pictures are deceiving that way.

LockDoc

[tcrist]

Like LockDoc says, put the jack stands under the outside of the lower A-arms. You want the suspension to be like it sets under weight, not hanging.

With that setup your tie-rod should angled down towards the tire a bit or close to level horizontally.

[Kennuck]

Originally Posted by tcrist

Remember that when you do a spring drop (or raise as would be for the 4X4's) it changes the angle of the connecting / track rod.

The connecting / track rod should be flat / horizontal. Raising or lowering and not changing to a longer or shorter pitman arm will allow the connecting / track bar to be at an angle. This then allows the track bar to move up and down before actually moving / turning the tires.

This is accurate for a 4x4 but on these trucks in 2 wheel drive the steering links are on an angle at approx. the same angle as the control arms. Because the control arms travel in an arc as the suspension moves up and down the steering links have to travel in approx. the same arc or the wheels would change from toe in to toe out as the suspension traveled. Look at the pics and you will see what I mean.

A drop pitman arm in this case will only make things worse.

[tcrist]

I agree Kennuck. There is a big difference between 2WD & 4WD. The main thing is to look at them and note the angle.

On these trucks, if the tie rod is higher on the wheel end then it is at the pitman & idler arm you could have an issue. When you step on the brakes the tie rod will go up more and will still change the toe in.

I don't think that the OP did a 5" front drop with spindles only. Probably a 2" spindle and then a 3" spring. Although I could be wrong.

[jcblue]

I did do a spindle spring drop.. Upon further inspection I noticed that with my wheels hanging I can turn my steering wheel left to right from center.. I'm guessing from 10 - 2 without my wheels moving much at all. So this is probably my biggest problem.. I will be calling redhead tomorrow and see about ordering a box or having it rebuilt..

[midniteblues]

your center link looks ok. when they are installed backwards it does make the steering real wacky.

if you think the steering is loose have someone wobble the steering wheel while you feel EVERY joint in the steering system starting at the colum.
i do this with the wheels off the ground and again when they are on the ground.

both ways could show ya something.

you can check the steering box this way also feel the input and output while someone turns the wheel.

[Lattimer]

Check the rag joint where the steering shaft meets the steering box for play. They do wear out, and if its bad it would give you the steering slop you feel. If not there, do what was said above, start looking at every joint until you find the slop.


Sometimes its the idler arm, sometimes its the rag joint, sometimes its the steering box. And just because a part is new or recently replaced doesn't mean its any good. Lots of junk being sold at parts stores these days.

[BossHogg69]

I went through a similar problem not long ago on my '69, also lowered 5/7 with spindles & springs up front. New steering box, new steering wheel, new flaming river column, new tie rods, new idler & pitman arm, new rag joint - you get the idea. EVERYTHING was brand new. I started going through it all, first problem I found was that the nut that held my Budnik steering wheel had begun to work its way loose. I tightened it down with a lock washer. Still had some slop on the next test drive. Next go round, I checked the rag joint and found that the pins that press into the rag joint (opposite of the bolts) had worked loose and was allowing the steering wheel to move about 1/8th of a turn (like you said, around "10 and 2") before the tires started turning. I installed another new rag joint, and double checked to make sure the pins where pressed in tight and the problem was gone.

[special-K]

No one else goes through this doing the same drop and nothing more than what was done on your truck. The issue is in the steering. Is it there play along the line? That would be upper shaft to lower due to rag joint, in box/out box, box (sector shaft) to pitman arm, pitman arm to..., joint to joint out to knuckles. Then there's ball joint play and finally wheel bearing. If all that is snug the problem is alignment/geometry or tires.

Look for play with tires on the floor for resistance. Is the front end all rebuilt? If all that is good, I'd check for play at the sector shaft and pitnam arm. It's rare, but I've seen them wear there.