1966 C10 Daily Driver

[KenAdams]

Just sold my previous daily driver (I work from home and only drove 250 miles last year). Here is the chronicle of my next daily driver build. The current plan is to build a reliable daily driver and something I can have fun on the track with.

I bought the truck out of Vegas and brought it back to Richmond. It's a long bed step side originally sold as a GSA.

I don't plan on doing any exterior work, I think I actually like it. My current plans are:
replace front of inner rockers, new outer rockers
-new ls3/t56
-coil over
-disk brakes
-rebuild rear
-shorten frame & bed


Start:


Current State (09/12/2018):

[KenAdams]

Started this late so a couple days work lumped into one:



Also to be posted for sale, parts, or scrap in a minute:

[KenAdams]

Stripped the cab and started on the drivers side rockers.

[KenAdams]

Was finally able to get back to work, almost finished with the driver's side rockers, patched the high hump shifter hole, and have moved on to the passenger side.

[Grizz1963]

Welcome and WoW !!

Loads of work.

List will be done in quick time.

[KenAdams]

Almost finished with the passenger side inner rockers and floor. Just have to finish a small patch and the bottom of the door pillar. One thing I have to remember is I will never order "Goodmark" panels again. They were super cheap on Summit but required a lot of fitting. I had to make a cut on the front of both the driver's side and passenger side inner rocker and add a pie shape piece so it would fit correctly.

[KenAdams]

I am trying to find the matching paint to paint the outer rockers and maybe the firewall. It's got a nonstandard paint code. The number on the tag is 0780-91640. Others have suggested it is called Federal Gray. I haven't made it up to the paint store yet. I'll be going as soon as I finish up the welding.

[KenAdams]

Pulled the wood and ties out of the bed yesterday... That was a task... Someone had welded a 3/16 plate on top of the wood. Took a couple hours to cut out the plate and then another couple ours to get the wood and ties out.

[RDrancher]

Nice work so far. I'm in for the ride.

[KenAdams]

Posted else where, but thought I would add it here too. I have determined I am going to shorten the bed by just removing 20 inches out of the middle of it. I've seen other guys shorten their fleet sides by removing 12 inches out of the front and 8 inches out of the rear. Since it's a stepside I am just going to remove 20 inches out of the middle. and move the bolt holes for the fenders. We'll see how it turns out.

**August 6, 2018 UPDATE, 12" out of the middle of the frame and 8" off the rear will change the frame from a longbed 127" to a shortbed 115" wheel base. To shorten the bed 12" out of the middle does work, but the correct repositioning of the bolts is moving half 14.5" forward, and half 5.5" to the rear. The stepside step is 14.5" shorter then the longbed step. See page 5.***

[KenAdams]

Ugh. I removed the rear and started on disassembly yesterday. Just ordered axels, gears, & posi from Jegs... Hopefully I picked right. Plan is to sandblast and paint the dif this week and then start reassembling next week.

$275.00 Moser Axels A3065GMT5 1965-69 GM Truck Spline 30 A3065GMT5
$560.00 Moser Posi 12 Bolt-4 series-- 30 Spline E12T304
$164.95 Richmond Gear 12BT373 Series 4 836-12BT373
$100.00 Moser 13010 Yoke PY110
$110.00 Moser Rebuild Kit R12BT
$40.00 Moser Axle Bearings & Seals 9559
$9.99 Jegs Pinion Shims 555-612051
$160.00 Moser Rear Cover
$17.50 Moser 1/2''-20 x 1-1/2'' .530'' KnurlWheel Studs 8138

Need to order rear brakes, planned on:
$794.99 Wilwood Rear Brakes w/ Parking Brake 140-12569-DR (D154)
But might shop around on price and see if I can get a deal with the fronts.

[KenAdams]

Just ordered the ride Ridetech Level 2 Coil over kit from MCB Matt! He has some killer prices!

At this rate I might actually have the truck on the road during Christmas... Might switch from 1 to 2 weeks off at Christmas so I can finish this up!

[KenAdams]

Pulled off the cab, and put in a full day of burning through cut-off wheels. I have another lwb frame that I already shortened, but I think I am going to shorten this frame as well to keep it "numbers matching." I am sure no one else would even know or care but somehow it makes me feel warm inside knowing it's all the same truck. The plan is to get the front off tomorrow and then shorten it over the next week and then sandblast and paint. I am actually at a dilemma... I had planned on powder coating it, but think I might paint it depending on how good the rear looks after the final coat of paint.

[KenAdams]

I'm lucky to have a buddy that runs a powder coat shop, that will let me sandblast anything I want at no cost. The problem with his shop is he can sandblast anything but can only powder coat up to like 10ft pieces. He needs a bigger oven, but he's been busy and stays busy and I doubt he cares about my input on his need for a bigger oven just so he can powder coat my frame. I've decided to just prime and paint my frame. It's my first time doing a chassis off so I'll see how it goes and adjust for the next project. I've decided for the frame I am just going to use Eastwood's 2k Epoxy Primer (14790Z) and Eastwood's 2k Chasis Satin Black (14146Z). So I sand blasted the rear end on Friday and then stored it in the Kitchen last night (can't get more redneck than that) because it was raining and I didn't want any flash rust. Then I primed it just now after stripping the chassis today. As a heads up I did not expect that 2k primer to kick off like that. I definitely need to get a respirator to spray the base later this week.

[northern 85]

Wow im in on this one!!!

[Joe Pass]

Nice work....

[Captainfab]

You're moving right along.

Just a FYI, I make 3 different rear disc brackets for the 5x5 wheel stud pattern. Links to the for sale threads in my sig line \/ \/ \/

I also make a booster bracket with the hydraulic clutch conversion, which you will need for your T56.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=651200

[KenAdams]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

You're moving right along.

Just a FYI, I make 3 different rear disc brackets for the 5x5 wheel stud pattern. Links to the for sale threads in my sig line \/ \/ \/

I also make a booster bracket with the hydraulic clutch conversion, which you will need for your T56.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=651200

Thanks Captain. I've known I need to order a bunch from you for a while, I'm still trying to figure out what I am going to do with the rear brakes before I place and order. My main problem is I have to have a parking brake. I know I don't have to run Wilwoods, but all the cool kids are doing it and it solves my parking brake problem.

[KenAdams]

Finished stripping the frame today of everything except for the: front, trailing arm, and original transmission cross member. I'm going to leave them till I finish shortening the frame then I will bust the final rivets. I took off the upper control arm mounts off of the front cross member today as well. That was a task especially since I couldn't remember what happened to my air hammer. I remember using it in 2012, so who knows where it is now?

The short term plan is to cut and weld up the frame and cut the frame Ridetech kit which is susposed to be here tuesday this week. Then sandblast the frame the beginning of next week and paint if it is warm enough. I've been putting off buying a heater for the garage, maybe it's time I pull the trigger.

[KenAdams]

Thought I would post the setup for the frame shortening. Fingers crossed I can get it cut up and welded on Wednesday.

12 inches out of the center of the frame, 8 out of the rear, then I am going to take a single 20" cut out of the long bed stepside.

[KenAdams]

Thought I would throw in some parts port. Most of the rear end items have arrived from Jegs. Still waiting on the diff cover and ring/pinion bearings. The Ridetech kit arrived today too, very well packed. I also going to try a new metal supplier for the backing plates for the frame chop, I'll let everyone know how he turns out. He is going to only charge me 20 bucks for two laser cut diamond shaped plates. The two local places wanted, 65 and 130 dollars for a 4 foot piece of 1/4"x5" piece of flat bar. Guess I better get to work, I want to drop the motor on sooooo bad!

[northern 85]

Very very nice!!!!

[KenAdams]

Getting started... No turning back now.

[KenAdams]

Got it cut, before heading out for the weekend. Probably no progress this next week, busy with some work items.

[northern 85]

Looks really good!!!