lights dimming

[Andy4639]

I noticed my lights and my tach are bouncing around with the music when the bass hits. I guess I need a capacitor in line with the bass amp. I just started seeing this happen in the last month are so.

[chevy-fun]

no! no no noooo. those are crap an should never be used. if you still have the factory alternator. trying looking for a higher output one. the stock ones were never meant for a good system. you need a bigger alt. your system is pulling my power an robbing power from other power functions. so a cap will do nothing. you need to feed your battery more. also i would look into the BIG 3 UPGRADE

[Andy4639]

Yes I did some more searching and found that the cap want help this problem. I'm going to look at getting mine rebuilt are just buying like a 160amp alternator for the truck. I'm off Friday so I'm going to check at my local rebuilder and see if he can build it first.

[Andy4639]

This is my alternator now in the truck. From what I have been reading the formula is the alternator spins 3 times what the crank does, so that means at 2000 RPM's the alternator is maxed out @ 6000 RPM's.@105 amps...correct


http://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-st...-at-the-ready/


http://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-st...-at-the-ready/

[chevy-fun]

ya 160 should be fine. not sure how big your system is. my 105 used to dim alot. then i got a 145amp alt an it would dim once in awhile cranked up all the way on some low bass songs. had a 2000 watt system. the big3 upgrade will also help. you can prob find someone in your area to do it for 100-150. after that i had no issues

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by chevy-fun

ya 160 should be fine. not sure how big your system is. my 105 used to dim alot. then i got a 145amp alt an it would dim once in awhile cranked up all the way on some low bass songs. had a 2000 watt system. the big3 upgrade will also help. you can prob find someone in your area to do it for 100-150. after that i had no issues

Excuse me but what is a Big3 upgrade?
I plan on going by the rebuilder's tomorrow and asking about rebuilding the alternator to 145.

[Big Kev-O]

The "big three upgrade" is a upgrade of three wires.
1. Battery ground to chassis ground.
2. Chassis to engine ground.
3. Battery positive to alternator positive.

I use a minimum of 4awg for all ground wires on my vehicles. I also try and avoid using H.O. alternators unless they are absolutely necessary because they consume horsepower. If your wiring is sufficient a capacitor will usually solve the issue with moderate systems. Capacitors have the ability to store and release energy much faster than a battery. A cap will charge almost instantly and provide your amp the extra current needed while the bass hits. BUT caution must be taken when a cap is added to your system. Before you connect the cap to the positive wire you must use a resistor or test light inline to energize/fill the cap. This limits the amount of current entering the cap to prevent it from arcing an/or welding the wire to the cap +terminal. If the battery is disconnected in the future and the capacitor discharges the same procedure must be followed before the positive cable is connected to the battery post. Capacitors do work.

[Andy4639]

Well I have all that. Grounds are all #4 cables. I make cables for golf carts all the time so I did a complete set for the truck several years ago. I have the frame grounded on both sides to the motor and also to the cab.
Didn't make it by the rebuilder's today I guess I'll go by Monday and see what he says.

[Andy4639]

These are my apms. 200 and 600 max!
Yes they are cheapo's but they where free! For the sound I get they work fine.

[Andy4639]

Here is the grounds #4 cables, these are extra to what is normally on the trucks.

[Andy4639]

Went by my local Car Stereo Store today and asked about the dimming of the lights. He look under the hood first thing and saw my negative battery cutoff and said that's it. he said get rid of it and it should be fine.

What do you think?

[kdh454]

Removing the battery disconnect may help, but it is the 105 amp alternator that is your problem. I went to a 145 amp and the lights no longer dim with 1600 watts going into the stereo. However, they do still dim a little when both electric fans turn on.

[Andy4639]

I haven't seen them deem with the fans on. You really think 800 watt max amps is causing it.

[Andy4639]

Well I took the quick connect out and just installed a regular battery terminal. Will see if it helps with the lights.
If this doesn't fix it then a new 145 amp alternator will be bought for it.
While I was messing with it today I got to thinking why not turn the battery box upside down and cut out the bottom of the box for the terminal's to come through it and make it a little nicer on the eyes... what do you think?
The reason for the covers and tie downs is our truck club has a auto cross every year and the battery has to be secured with no metal showing.

[Andy4639]

Drove the truck this afternoon and guess what...no bouncing. I had the AC on high, headights on and the music cranked up and not one time did it bounce. I drove over 10 miles. I'll keep a eye on it and see how it does though.

[Hart_Rod]

I use one of this type battery cutoff on my trucks: