Build up existing frame w/ suspension or buy a complete aftermarket frame?

[HellaciousA]

I've got a 70 c10 swb, that has a 67 frame. I am debating about whether to do the following:

1. Clean up and back half the frame with a no limit rear rail kit, add a fatbar, and wide ride, 9 inch rear etc. Cost wise I'm figuring this will be close to $8-$10k depending on options

2. Sell the stock frame as is, and buy the pro 10 frame from no limit. With options I'm sure this will be close to $12-13k if not more.

My end goal is a truck with 6-700 rwhp, and can pull .95 g's on the skidpad (if not better depending on what tires I'm running). Those that have built up a stock framed truck with aftermarket components was that worth it? Or is it worth the extra coin to just buy a completely new frame that is much stiffer and well-engineered.

I've been debating this now for going on 3 months off and on, and keep looking through the numbers. I'm not doing a quick restoration on this truck, so I'm prepared for this to take a few years to complete. I also am not one to cut corners for the sake of time. I want this truck to be reliable and a blast to drive.

[duallyjams]

sell your frame

[andrewmp6]

I would go new frame and look at all the options out there like http://roadstershop.com/product/full...track-chassis/
http://www.schwartzperformance.com/1...-frame-pickup/
http://www.speedtechperformance.com/...cat/cat152.htm

[robnolimit]

You seam pretty close on price. But factor in a few more things. BTW, you should check in to these with all manufacturers to make a fair comparison. We figure there is about 3k total difference between a full chassis and a built OE chassis. So, what do you get for 3k? Well, the base Pro-C10 chassis is a LOT stronger, more rigid, so the chassis platform stays still and the suspension moves. this has benefits other that ride quality and performance. Like, the doors stay in alignment, and so does the bed/cab fit, and the front sheet metal. It's also quieter when you drive it, less sheet metal harmonics. Next, all of the welding and install is done. Some guys love to do this step, I know I do, but if you are going to pay someone to install it, how much will that cost? or, How much of your time will it take? and, will this add time to the build? lets face it, we're not getting any younger, it's time to get out and drive them! Our Pro-C10 chassis are ported for exhaust, as well as air lines, electrical, and brake and fuel lines. All of this can also be done to the OE chassis, but look back at the previous time/$$ questions. Our Pro-C10 chassis are 'right'. meaning, the front and rear axle C.L. are correct to fit the wheel opening, the bed is a bit closer to the cab, and the bumpers are fitted in. Again, yes, this can be achieved on the OE chassis, as long as you know all of this to watch for. Motor and trans mounts are in place, ready to bolt in the combo you spec. And, we include the brake line plumbing as part of a base chassis. So is all that worth 3k? it's up to you. Most of these items you will need to purchase anyway, sooner or later. So think long term goal, big picture, to help compare.

The best package to me for a cool street truck is to do a base chassis, raised rear rails, coil-overs, and add a fuel tank, fuel lines, explorer rear brakes and a gear set. Done. With this you can set in the eng/trans, fit the body, run exhaust, then knock it apart, paint/powder the chassis, bolt it together and drive it. After all, a 3500 lb. towel rack in the garage isn't really that cool.

[duallyjams]

Rob/nolimit chassis have been beat on and road coarse race proven and personally the best price on a complete chassis.