another T-5 question

[slepysal]

Thinking of putting a NWC T5 out of a 1984 Camaro in my 1960.But I have a couple of questions :
I have read that you can use your original bell housing and fork
1)Mine being a 60 has a hydraulic set up ( not on the passenger side but on the driver side) will that work with the T-5 ?
2) The Tranny has an electrical speedo, can I just buy an after market unit and wire it directly to the sensor , since I am using my 250 and of course has no pcm .
3) Will the T-5 need a rear cross member?
4) Am I right that a Camaro trans needs no mods to bolt on?
I am not running bench seats so shifter location is a non issue.
Thanks

[scoot_mcgrute]

I used this thread as a guideline for my swap. I used a different bellhousing (460486) but the process was similar. Most guys will swap the rear housing out on the Camaro case for the S10 rear housing since the shifter will be forward of the bench seat. If shifter location isn't an issue than I wouldn't worry about that part.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=482069

As for the electric speedo output, I found these guys that can convert it to a mechanical speedo output. There looks to be a few different options out there as well, this is just one that I found after a quick search.

http://t56cablespeedometer.com

Here is my shifter location with an S10 T-5. Scroll down to the 3rd picture for shifter locations

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...5&postcount=95

[mehoff400]

3) Will the T-5 need a rear cross member?
I installed my T-5 a month or so ago with out a rear cross member and so far i am not seeing any issues. i thought i might feel the torq but so far i haven't felt it.

4) Am I right that a Camaro trans needs no mods to bolt on?
only thing you will need to do is drill out the holes on the tranny to 1/2 inch and a clutch and flywheel to match the tranny. i used a clutch and flywheel from a 1980 c10 it was a 11" clutch with a 168 tooth flywheel.

[Mackie]

I've had a NWC S10 T5 and then a Camaro WC behind a SBC in my truck without a rear X member for 6-7 years. Last fall the truck made a near 700 mile trip, loaded pulling a loaded trailer, over some mountains, too. No problems.

[jocko]

the 60 hydraulic setup is just a slave cyl that moves the mechanical fork (i.e. not a hyd release bearing as in a brand new car - just in case some are wondering) - so, everything inside the bell should be stock and mechanical - so I can see no reason why you cannot use that setup. I would make sure to check proper (or at least good) alignment of the fork fingers with the release bearing - sometimes the pressure plate is thicker and release bearing is thinner (application dependent), but the total stacked height of the two should be about the same regardless of combo. Anyway - just make sure the mechanical clutch fork properly engages the release bearing. I am assuming the clutch fork is the same for a slave cyl setup or pure mechanical setup, but am not 100% certain - never had a 60-62. So, that is why I mention to just check it.

no rear crossmember required or desired - just use the bell mounts. If you use a bell with no mounts, you'll need a rear crossmember.

if a Camaro trans - no need to use a spacer, if that's what you're asking. Just buy the correct clutch disk for the trans (i.e. correct tooth count for the input shaft) - recommend buy clutch/pressure plate and release bearing as a kit (for the trans) for the reason mentioned above. If you use a combo of old/new, you could end up with a setup that binds or doesn't have enough travel.

I've been asked a few times what I mean by stacked height. Well, it's not a technical term from GM, that's for sure, it's from my own garage. It's a good idea to keep the clutch disk/pressure plate, and release bearing that your removing (Well, actually, just the pressure plate and release bearing, disk not that important). Lay the pressure plate down on the ground (as if the ground were the flywheel) and then rest the release bearing on the pressure plate fingers as if it were just engaging the pressure plate. Stack your new pressure plate and release bearing next to it in the same manner. Check to maker sure that they add up to the same height off the ground - this will ensure stuff will fit in your bell, won't bind, and will have enough travel to engage the new pressure plate. Not all release bearings are the same thickness and not all pressure plates are the same thickness - but as long as the combined stacked height of the two is about the same as your original functional setup - you're good. It's possible to use a release bearing for the original trans and a new pressure plate (or vice versa) and have a combo that won't work correctly.

[slepysal]

Thanks to you all for sharing your knowledge . Hope to do this swap sooner then later.

[slepysal]

Ok I notice I made a type o the T5 came out of a 1984 Camaro not 1994
( # WG 13-20-070 ) I got it for $200.00 of of a guy who converted his car
from auto to stick. He picked up a TKO before he did the swap and didn't use the t5.

This will be a"back burner" project, But Ill update things as they go along
Again thanks for all your imput