Turn indicator switch replacement - lots of pictures

[djeCST]

As part of my rewiring project I needed to replace the cracked turn signal switch. Searching here for words of wisdom yielded some information, but nothing that shared a start-to-finish description of the job. As it turns out the project isn’t very difficult, but there are a few things you need to know in order to be successful. Note that everything here is for a stock, non-tilt column. I don’t know what differences there may be for a tilt column.

You will need to remove the steering wheel first. My steering wheel was already off of the column, so I’m going to skip that part – there are plenty of good threads here for that.

With the wheel removed, this is what you see:



I have already removed the turn signal and shift levers.

You will need to disconnect the turn signal wiring from the dash harness. First, unplug the semi-circular connector. Next, remove each of the wires from the connector, noting their position (or you can match them up to the other half of the connector still attached to the dash wiring). Take a tiny screwdriver, stiff wire or paper clip and push it in just alongside the terminal on both sides the plug, then gently pull back on the wire. You will need to fiddle around a bit to find the little clip that holds the connector in place. Be patient.



You will probably need to bend the little tabs back out in order to reinstall the wire.



The three screws in the 12, 5 and 8 o’clock positions secure the switch. One by one, back them out almost all the way but not so much that you can remove them. You’ll need to click the switch down to the left turn position to get at the one on the top. Once they are all loose, grab the turn signal housing and turn in counter-clockwise about 1/8 of a turn.



You can now pull the housing with the switch still attached off of the steering shaft. There’s a bearing that sits on top of the assembly, so you may need to tug on it a little.



Now you can remove the three screws that hold the switch in place and remove it. My 1970 C10 has the small emergency flasher stalk, not the larger knob that later model trucks have, so you should be able to simply tip the whole thing out. I think on later models you need to first unscrew the flasher knob, but I don’t have any first-hand experience with that.

Remove the switch and this is what’s left – the upper bearing housing.


From here it’s a pretty simple matter of reversing the procedure. Install your new switch on to the upper bearing housing, lining up the little stud on the back of the switch with the recessed hold on the housing:





Give ‘em a good squeeze together – they should fit pretty tight. You want them to fit together with no gaps.



Thread the wires from the switch through the turn signal housing and tip the switch back in.





Replace the three screws; thread them in just until they are flush with the back of the housing.

Here’s a view from the back side of the housing showing the cutout where the wires go. You can also see how the screws that hold the switch are just flush with the back. Note the three thumbnail-shaped cutouts on the inside edge of the housing – we’ll get to those in a second.



Thread the wires down the column, through the shift lever housing.



The column has three little bumps on the tube that help lock the housing in place, here’s one of them:



Take the switch housing and line it up about 1/8 of a turn counter-clockwise from it’s final location. One of those little thumbnail cutouts will line up with one of the little bumps on the column tube. You may need to wiggle it around a little, but it will eventually drop in to place. Rotate the housing clockwise until it locks into place. Tighten up the three screws and you’re almost done.



Grease the bearing if it needs it and slide it back on to the column shaft. It fits just with finger pressure; the steering wheel nut holds everything together.





Route your wires, plug them back in to the connector and reinstall your steering wheel. Job done!

Hopefully this helps.

[firedemon]

thanks I need to do this soon mine is cracked and po tried to safety wire it back together it didn't hold and now the right side wont stop flashing unless I turn it back to center . I remember sometimes . other times people wonder where the hell I'm going

[72CSCC]

This rocks - thank you for the effort. Everything is easier done a second time!

[Lanman1972]

Great info, thanks

[Stocker]

Great info.... bookmarked.

[custom10nut]

Great thread. I have to replace my canceling cam, this shows me what I need to know

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Awesome, thank you.

[randy500]

I will add that anytime your in the column you should remove the shifter arm and then the shift bowl, clean and lube it, the grease dries out and they then don't slide well. It slides right off after the shifter arm is removed. On top or it is the indexed plastic washer then the tapered rubber that tensions the upper shift tube.

[72LB]

Nice job on the tutorial. My only question is why pull the wires out of connector? I never have had to do that although most have had one of these adapters.

[djeCST]

In order to pull the wires out of the housing you will need to remove the connector - it doesn't fit through the space between the housing and the column. Once you get the hang of releasing the wires it's pretty simple. The key is to take your time and not force anything.

[72LB]

What I was getting at is some of the TS switches have a strait plug and need the adapter I posted to work. Makes it easier to slip through the housing.

[Tdrcreyn4]

Subbed

[djeCST]

Originally Posted by 72LB

What I was getting at is some of the TS switches have a strait plug and need the adapter I posted to work. Makes it easier to slip through the housing.

I just find it easier to release the wires. I've done it so many times it's second nature now. LOL

[jonmc56]

Great tutorial, thanks Dennis.

I just used your instructions to replace my TS switch. Worked great, and I would add 3 things I learned:

1. I never could get a tool down both sides of the plugs at the same time to release them. I ended up inserting a tool down one side, rocking it to the side to bend the tab in, then doing the same on the other side in order to release the pin.
2. My old TS switch had the wires divided into 2 flat ribbon cables that sat on top of each other to run down the column. The new switch had all the wires in one wide ribbon cable. I ended up separating the wires up near where they exit the turn signal switch housing, so that they would 'bundle' better and take up less space as they pass through the opening in the bottom of the TS switch housing.
3. Before the wires exit the TS Switch housing, they need to wrap around the TS Switch a little bit (maybe just a little more than an inch). There is a little clip on my TS Switch that the wires tuck under just before exit the housing. I didn't realize this at first, and the wires always got in the way when I tried to reinstall the housing onto the column.

Thanks again!
Jon

[35boulder]

I just read thru this...nice tutorial. Thanks

[fastlane]

I've been procrastinating for 4 years on this project, my new steering wheel should be here next week as well as some old caddy horns, so may as well install the turn signal my kids got me for fathers day 4 years ago!

[68Blu]

Please help. I’m replacing my turn signal switch and I found this. The rubber bushing is distorted and I would like to replace it. Anyone know what it’s called?

[68Blu]

After more scouring of this site (not on a phone) for a steering column diagram, I think I've found it. It's a "rubber ring" that fits around the "plastic thrust washer". Now to find one. Anyone ever had to buy one?

[Astro-Balls]

I just did mine last week, got the Switch assembly from ManesTruck Parts, It went in very smoothly, fit was excellent.

[cj847]

I will add a couple of comments in case it helps someone. I was working on a 71 C10>

-The 1971 has a removable "tunnel" for the turn signal wiring. It is a lot easier than the above situation.



-Most of the time the problem is not in the electrics but instead is just the cam which is replaceable component of the switch. About $12.



It is a bit fiddly to work with and you need to be careful to attach all of the little pieces from your old cam.

[cj847]

-A quick shout out to one tool that has saved me several times including today. It's a magnet. When spring loaded items suddenly break loose all over the place, this thing can find parts you literally cant see.

[saxart]

Great write up! Make note of this in case you have the "horn stuck on" syndrome after replacing the turn signal switch.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=765275

[lks dcvn]

just used these instructions today to swap the switch in my 71 blazer project that always had a loose turn signal since I bought it 4+ years ago.

Wow - this is what I have been missing!

Thanks to the original poster!

[custom10nut]

Subbed

[Jason Banks]

Help. The pictures are gone.

I'm working on a non-tilt auto column and have a new switch that has the half round connector. Was really just trying to figure out how to depin the connector(if necessary) and had this saved for refence but sadly the 'lots of pictures' are gone.