Pre-Bent OM Brake Lines ?

[C10 - C90 Bill]

I need to change a Brake Line on the back of my '72 C-10. Is the quality all the same? Or are some better than others out there? I just need a regular steel Pre-Bent Line with the Factory type metal wrapping on it.

Also where would be the best place to get one at?

Thanks

[jmking9]

I've used Inline Tube several times, and have always been satisfied.
www.inlinetube.com Or more specifically
http://www.inlinetube.com/_p/prd14/2...lines--ctb71r1 (Not sure if that's exactly what you're looking for)

[cleszkie]

X2 on Inline Tube.

[Gmc.guy]

If it's the rear line there isn't any tight bends. You could measure and get one at Napa. It has the wrap on it and is easily bend by hand over your knee. It will be cents that way compared to dollars. If you were doing the front ones or all of them a kit would save time. I understand getting a kit to save headache, but I'm cheap

[Gmc.guy]

Any parts store I should say.

[LongBox]

Just wondering why you are changing only one line. Is it damaged, or is it rusty? If it's rusty, might be worthwhile to change them all, just to be on the safe side.

Also wanted to add that lots of good things have been said about cupro-nickel brake lines. Easy to work with, resist corrosion, etc. etc. etc.

[C10 - C90 Bill]

Appreciate the replies.

[GASoline71]

I installed an entire set of brake lines on my 1972 GMC from Inline Tube and they are great!

Gary

[57larry]

go to any parts store, buy your lines and bend them yourself using a bender tool

[Gmc.guy]

I usually end up changing the rear by itself because I wreck it changing the brake hose, at the coupler under the cab I just cut the rear line and use a socket and a wrench. I have done the rear many times without a bender, but I do my own all around and cut/reflare where I need to when the pre-lengths are too long.

[truckdude239]

Ive used i lie tube several times i ordered a whole kit but the axle lines didnt fit so they had me send my old lines in and they scaned them and made new ones and sent them back at no charge, turns out i had a 72 rear end instead of tbe 71 rear it had been swaped , i expected to have to pay more but they took cars of it

[special-K]

Just because one section of line is rotten doesn't mean the rest will be equally rusted. If you look under the truck and they all look rusty, by all means swap them all out. I usually do only one because the only reason I am replacing is because the nut into the caliper or cylinder is rusted onto the line, which is due to exposure to the highly corrosive brake fluid and I end up wringing it off. I anticipated this when changing front brake hoses on my K2500 last summer, so I ordered the section that crosses the cross member and goes to the passenger side hose. The driver side I figured I could make easily. As it turns out soaking with PB Blaster did the trick and for once it came off with ease. The original line was in such good condition I elected to put that back in and keep the Inline section for the future.

The rear axle line I have bought from Inline for an HO52. It went in so easy it about jumped on there all by itself. Figure that's all the line that is down below the frame. The hose passes up into the frame, and the lines in the frame are in a much less vulnerable place. So, I only replaced the axle section...because it wrung off at the wheel cylinders (on a K/20 I had)

Now...if the truck was an 88-98 I'd go ahead and replace every line under the truck including brakes, fuel, and fuel return. Somehow in the 16 years between '72 and '88 GM managed to go backwards and use crappy made-to-rust tubing. I think that is made out of recycled 73-77 Chevy Truck sheet metal

[C10 - C90 Bill]

Originally Posted by LongBox

Just wondering why you are changing only one line. Is it damaged, or is it rusty? If it's rusty, might be worthwhile to change them all, just to be on the safe side.

I had to change front Brake Hoses and Rear Wheel Cylinders. In other words I had to crack open all 4 lines. They all broke loose fine but not the L/R. It just would not co-operate and twisted off. I believe it may have been half twisted anyway as someone did a horrible brake job on it just before I bought the truck back in 2000. I had to half do it all over again back then, lol.

By the way, if anyone is counting, that's right, I haven't done any brake work on it in 16 years, lol. I've kept the miles down on it and it's also the way I drive. When I see a Red Light ahead I start backing down right away. I also downshift quite a bit.

Funny as lots of times the guy in the lane next to me races by, then hits his brakes hard to stop. I'm backing down as mentioned and by the time I get there the light is now Green and I zoom by him leaving him in the dust, lol.

BTW, I also changed the Front Pads, but the Rear Shoes are still good.