68 K20 front brake help

[1968ChevyK20]

This may be a simple solution but my knowledge of brakes is little past the calipers and drums. What I have is a 68 Chevy pickup 3/4ton with original hard lines still installed across the front crossmember and the passenger side runs to a hole in the frame with an nipple to thread directly into the brake lines off the calipers. The drivers side is where I get hung up at that same location in the frame there is a two sided fitting with a hole in the middle. How do I attached the caliperblije to this? Or do I need to change that fitting into a T style fitting. See photos

Additional info if helps:

We did a Dana front and rear swap from a 73-87 application for disc brakes in the front drums in the rear. Unsure of the exact year but I have markings 44-8F under the pumpkin and C38335 at the top of the pumpkin. The BOM that's suppose to be on the axle shaft is not visible.

Thank you
Cody
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[B. W.]

OK, the fitting with the hole in it uses a banjo bolt. the issue is finding a brake hose that will screw onto the banjo bolt. The later year trucks with factory discs have a tee fitting up near the cross member then a brake line runs back to the driver's side. I think the easiest thing is to put a regular tee in place of yours (move the line up or down a little) then run a short brake line to your hose.

[1968ChevyK20]

Originally Posted by B. W.

OK, the fitting with the hole in it uses a banjo bolt. the issue is finding a brake hose that will screw onto the banjo bolt. The later year trucks with factory discs have a tee fitting up near the cross member then a brake line runs back to the driver's side. I think the easiest thing is to put a regular tee in place of yours (move the line up or down a little) then run a short brake line to your hose.

Awesome thanks. I have to bend new lines anyways from that fitting to the M/C because I added a power booster and aftermarket firewall to booster bracket so the original lines around about 6 inches aft of the M/C. I'll probably just make all new front lines then. Thank you for that picture. I like that setup

[jeffahart]

Here is a clip from my 1970 K20 to 1ton axle swap thread.

"on the driver side there is an inline T in the frame rail. It is one of those crazy ones with the banjo bolt. So what happens is the banjo bolt bottoms out in the adapter before pressure is put on the copper washers. I got fatter copper washers and there was very little thread left for tightening. I went for it anyway, it leaked. I tightened more and it stripped, luckily the adapter stripped not the bolt. So I stacked the original brake line on the ORD line with the adapter. So it's drivable. I need to get rid of the old T and get a new one."

So you can see I got an interim solution by stacking brake lines with an adapter. I put in a proper T a couple weeks later. That old school banjo T is the pits!

I now have my truck in the garage and am converting to hydroboost.