65 bag problems

[Capo_Customs]

Hows it going. This is my first post on here so go easy on me. I have a 65 c10 that i am bagging. I put the notch in and the frame is resting on the trailing arms. Im not even close to laying frame. Actually, the loest point of the frame is still 9 inches off the floor and the rearend is 6 inches from hitting the top of the notch. Am i missing something here? Im running 235/70/15 white walls so the tires aren't huge. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
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[Capo_Customs]

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[Capo_Customs]

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[James the III]

90* rotate photo

[PGSigns]

Is the plan to lay frame front and rear? What have you done in the front and it is hard to lay frame with stock trailing arms in the stock location. If the plan is to lay frame then gut everything from the frame and sit it on the floor and level it in both directions Then you can work the front and rear suspension.
Jimmy

[Capo_Customs]

Im cupping the stock teailing arms and running drop spindles and bags. Yes, the idea was to lay frame.
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[Capo_Customs]

Sorry, stock control arms
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[Capo_Customs]

But even if i took the trailing arms out, the rearend would be resting on the top of the notch, and it still wouldnt be on the ground. Thats what is confusing me
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[hewittca]

Those notches appear to be the standard drop notch and there are plenty of trucks laying frame on those. Check out this thread for reference with a suspension setup that will lay frame. Where are you measuring the frame height from and are the straight sections of rail level when you measure? It's hard to tell from your photos, but it looks as though the frame isn't level. Something has to be skewed if you are measuring 9" of space and only have 6" left to drop into the notches.

As for the trailing arms hitting the frame, it is very common to run aftermarket arms that won't interfere. On top of that, the arms are usually 3" drop arms, which is like a built in lowering block on the arms. You could add in 2" blocks, which are available for stock arms, and that will eat up some of the ground clearance you are trying to get rid of.

[PGSigns]

Cupping the arms and running drop spindles will get the front cross member on the ground but the frame will be 3 inches or so off the floor.
Jimmy

[Lovett]

If you look at a stock truck, one that has nothing done to it. The front of the truck needs work to lay the frame on the ground. The front cross member, engine oil pan and the lower control arm would be the lowest parts on the truck. They would be the first to touch the ground.

I am doing a bagged 65 truck right now. My plan is to do the front 1st. Get it to lay on the ground then do the rear of the truck to match.

Doing a low cost, do it yourself project. I have added a 2 inch drop spindle, disk brake. On the lower control arm. I have cut out the center of the of the arm where the coil spring was on it. I then used 1/4 inch plate to make a box for the air bag to set even with the bottom of the control arm. That gets you a few more inches of "lowered"

The next thing on the list is to raise the upper and lower control arm mounting points in relation to the ground. The plan will be to cut the frame between the firewall and the front cross member. Move it up 3 inches then weld it back together. This would be the hot rod "Z"ed frame. This will lower the truck and other 3 inches. Because I am adding a rack and pinion steering. I will cut the frame between the front cross member and the radiator core support. This will "lower" the front of the truck back to stock for sheet metal, front bumper. I am not using the stock steering box. idler arm, so that part of the frame does not have to be in the same plane, level as the front cross member and control arms. This will allow the control arm, spindles to be at the correct angles at ride height. I will also cut the inner wheel wells and hood hinge to make room for the top of the tires being way up from stock location.

I am adding a 700 trans to the v-8 engine. I will have to make some adjustments to the firewall and cab floor for the Engine and trans to fit because they are tied to the "raised" cross member. They will be 3 inches higher to the fame under the cab.

My truck is a GMC with leaf springs in the rear. When the work on the front is done. I will have a ride height for the frame under the cab and bed of the truck and the rear end housing. With that data, I will do the rear notch, 4 bar, bag placement on the rear of the truck. to match the travel of the new front end.

Everyone has a way of doing stuff on a project. My thought was the front need to be worked on before the rear.

[PGSigns]

With a lot of full chassis drag cars under my belt I can tell you you need to look at both ends at the same time. What you do to one will have an effect on the other. The best way to do this is a chassis plate but most folks dont have one. The next best thing is a good flat floor and a couple of good levels. Don't hesitate to drill some holes in the floor and put some anchors in to hold stuff in place. How and where you weld can and will pull stuff around. To lay frame with stock front cross member and trailing arms takes a good bit of work and a good bit of planning before starting to cut and weld. If you dont have a plate to work off of to keep everything straight and aligned it is easy to get a lot of twist and miss alignment in a frame. We would clamp the chassis to the fixture to keep it all aligned and measure everything lots of times. If you look at the off the shelf kits like chopping block and porter built you can get a feel for the amount of engineering you need to put into getting the frame on the ground and also having a safe well driving truck when you are done. When you work out the plan you need to factor the tire and wheel package in as getting it on the ground with 15" wheels is easier than 20+ inch wheels. Lots of ways to do it including pancaking the front crossmember and raising it in the frame. Then there is the body and drive line that all need to be addressed like Lovett talked about. Bags, drop spindles and a notch in the back are not going to get you there.
Jimmy

[tinydb84]

I have a 66 that lays rocker. The rear was done with a three link because the stock trailing arms hit the frame like yours are.

You can Z the rear the clear the arms but your notch will be a bit too tall. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=485504 Starts around post 19