65 c10 frame. HELP

[Jonboy97]

Hey guys just activated my account literally two minutes ago. I'm new and I need some help. I came across a 65 c10 long bed rolling chassis for a deal- 150 dollars- at a local guys house on Craigslist. I'm about to go pick it up. My plans are to cut the frame off in the front, slide it back at least two feet and weld it back together. I don't think I will "Z" in the front but I may. I'm building a rat rod THAT WILL BE CHEVY POWERED but with a Ford body. I need to know if I can and if I will need to move the cross member in the rear that holds the trailing arms as I'm afraid my trans will hit it. Any tips suggestions or comments are welcome. Thanks!
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[wbc409]

Not sure if you really need to Z the frame. You can get these trucks really low with a c-notch. When you lower these trucks you need to pay attention to the pinion angle, especially when you drop them really low, because the angle is determined by the lower control arms. You might need to alter the rear suspension cross member where the drive shaft goes through. I haven't lowered one of these trucks, but I do see quite a few and I ask a lot of questions.

[Jonboy97]

I'm using a 48 f1 truck cab and box for the body. I know it's a ford and this is a chevy forum, but I am using a sbc and a chevy truck frame. My idea is that I was the rear tires right behind the cab, bobber style with the engine and transmission in the original spot in the frame. No matter what I do, I've got to shorten the frame. So I'm at a loss in what I should do.
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[PGSigns]

I would get the frame, set an engine in it and set the body on it to see what you need to cut. That way you can bob the frame behind the wheels and with the cab sitting on the frame see how it looks and decide based on how it look to you. If the trans sits close to the crosmember there is room to get a driveshaft in there.
Jimmy

[Clyde65]

Besides what the other guys have said, it's not like any of us have spent money and things didn't work out! You could scrap for about $50 if it doesn't.

[andyh1956]

In high school one of my buds built a rod outta a Stude pickup w/ a Chevy 283. He cut the frame too short & had the problem you are talking about. His solution to the problem was to mate the trans yoke directly to the rear axle yoke! No kidden! The trans / engine moved up & down w/ the rear axle! Man things were simpler back then!

[rocket_customz]

here is a long bed frame for reference. Depends on drivetrain options but should have room

[Jonboy97]

Thanks for all the replies, guys. I'm about to go pick up the frame soon. I've been gathering materials for the build and I've got a simple problem, with a decently simple sounution. I'm building the back half of the frame out of 2"x4" rectangular tubing and plan on using leaf springs. I know that's not ideal like ladder bars or a 4 link but I'm new and want to keep it simple. And cheap because I've got a junk yard full of leafs. But how do I bolt the spring hangers to the tubing without crushing it? Weld a tube into the hole where the bolt goes to keep it from smashing the tubing? And does it need to be welded all the way around or can I just tack it into place?
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[rocket_customz]

I would cut access holes on the back side and just bolt it to the outside of the tubing. Or get thicker wall tubing