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10-22-2003, 04:49 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: long island, NY
Posts: 26
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3/4 Ton Rear Disc Brake Conversion Kit?
Anyone seen a kit to convert the rear drum brakes to disc? I've seen them for the 1/2 tons but not the 3/4. I have a 1989 3/4 ton Suburban with the 14 bolt rear.
Thanks Lee |
10-22-2003, 08:43 PM | #2 |
5 day ban, learn to behave.
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: san diego, ca
Posts: 683
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do you have the semi floater or full floater 14 bolt? If you have the full floater, a bunch of people on the net and a few companies make brackets that mount to the axle, and then you use GM 4x4 front rotors and calipers and just customize your brake lines.. i did it on my 77 K25, and I love it.. I got the brackets from someone "derbinator" but I havent seen him around in a while... www.coloradok5.com has a few people that make the brackets.. thats where I found derbinator to buy my brackets. Its an excellent mod. I can post pics if you want...
mike |
10-23-2003, 05:01 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: western Australia
Posts: 124
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Please post pics sounds very interesting.
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10-23-2003, 09:55 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: long island, NY
Posts: 26
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Mike, I have the full floater so the set up that you used sounds good. Did you do anything with the master cylinder or add an adjustable proportional valve? The pictures would be good if you can post them. Thanks.
Lee |
10-23-2003, 10:51 PM | #5 |
5 day ban, learn to behave.
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: san diego, ca
Posts: 683
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No I used a stock 77 K25 master cylinder, and the stock (new) GM proportioning valve.. if you do the research, you'll see that a lot of different people will have a lot of different opinions on what you should and shouldnt do. there is no doubt that you can just install the brakes and go, and everything will "work"... Thats basically what I did and aside from a slight delayed release problem, I have zero complaints; not with the amount of pressure applied, not with anything. Some others have had the delayed release problem (brakes dont release instantly after braking, only for a fraction of a second) but its not even worth me looking to right now.. Id like to fix it someday but as of right now its not an issue. Some people who've supposedly done the exact same mod in the exact same way, DONT have the problem.. so its just luck of the draw, or so it seems.. you do lose your stock parking brake, and there are a couple of options to do a custom parking brake.. another issue Id like to address "someday" but as of right now I dont need a parking brake that bad, especially since its an automatic truck.. the general consesus seems to be to just remove the stock proportioning valve from the system for best results.. I cant speak from experience though.
I had steel braided lines made, from the end of the steel brakeline at the frame, all the way to the calipers.. but most people rig up the original steel lines along the axle housing with some stock rubber lines off the front brakes.. Theres quite a few ways to make it work.. I have a couple hundred dollars, maybe $300 at the most into my setup, and I would do it again in a second.. It seems like its worth the money the FIRST time you are working on the rear axle/brakes and arent dealing with the drum system. Plus it looks awesome from the rear.. occasionally someone who knows what they are looking at will see rear discs on your truck and know its custom and be wow'd by them. heres a couple pics and............. hope this helps mike |
10-25-2003, 09:23 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: long island, NY
Posts: 26
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Thanks for the info Mike!!
Take care Lee |
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