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10-23-2003, 09:39 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Carlsbad, CA
Posts: 38
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Front Locking Hubs get HOT! Problem?
After driving only about 5-10 miles, my front Warn hubs are too hot to touch. Is this a sign of a problem? Or is this normal. They are in the free position. The truck is new to me and I have not tried to lock them into 4wd.
They look pretty worn from the outside (sorry...pun)
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TRUK ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2BLUE72 K5 BLAZER 4X4 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Last edited by TRUK; 10-24-2003 at 12:19 AM. |
10-23-2003, 10:44 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Colfax-California
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Wheel bearings may be to tight, the calipers may be sticking. Should not be that hot after only 5 miles.
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10-24-2003, 12:09 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Carlsbad, CA
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Thanks, Is there a way to test for this without having to disassemble the hub?
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TRUK ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2BLUE72 K5 BLAZER 4X4 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
10-24-2003, 01:00 AM | #4 |
horsepower junkie
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: graham, washington
Posts: 326
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i would pull it apart and check the bearings....for sure...if the calipers come off easily then they are prolly ok....check the brake pads for even wear if not very even then and the calipers are difficult to remove they are prolly sticking... either thing will cause heat..im leaning towards the calipers sticking ive had some very bad bearings and they didnt create that much heat that fast....
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67 short wide box,350/700r4/3.73posi 71 olds cutlass "S" mom bought new..12.30s@113MPH |
10-24-2003, 04:56 AM | #5 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
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I agree look at those brakes calipers first. I had one seize up, talk about hot.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
10-25-2003, 01:17 PM | #6 |
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Location: Sebastopol Miss.
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The easiest way to check it w/out pulling down is to jack it up and spin wheel. See if brakes are dragging or has unusual noise or "rough" spot in bearings.
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EXPERIMENTAL STAGES OF SANITY _____________________________ Run whatcha brung, and hope you brung enuff |
10-26-2003, 12:20 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Carlsbad, CA
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I'll give that a try. I have not noticed any strange brake issues. I seem to roll pretty straight ane easy.
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TRUK ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2BLUE72 K5 BLAZER 4X4 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
10-26-2003, 03:07 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,915
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A siezed wheel bearing can create lots of heat by spinning the inner race on the spindle. I have experienced this problem.
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Richard 1972 K10 Custom Deluxe SWB Fleetside My build https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=800746 |
10-27-2003, 11:15 PM | #9 |
Collector of rusty Items
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Sisters,Oregon USA
Posts: 731
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Hmm,
Is it a stock rig? seems like there is an issue on brake conversions where a check-valve keeps a certain amount of pressure in a drum brake cylinder and if you don't change the valves out when you put discs on then they don't release all the way and get hot. I'm pretty foggy on the topic, but maybe someone else knows. I think the jacking up and spinning idea is the best. Good luck.
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Scrub Sisters, Oregon - Home of the Sisters Rodeo. 70 GMC 1,000,000 + miles 72 K-20 project, 456 Dana60 front, Corp14 rear w/locker, 265R19.5 tires 20-ply. Warn 12k winches both ends, Cross-over steering with raised tie-rod, Powerbox steering, 4500 watt 120-AC power, Air, Hydraulic aux power, 4 inch lift, 5000 lb air-bags both ends. |
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