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#1 |
computer illiterate
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 6,446
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rust preventative?
what do YOU use. not your buddy or someone you have heard of, I want to hear your personal experiences. I am getting ready to coat the underside and the inside of the cab and I would like to know what you guys think is best. why? and how well is it holding up to the out door elements.
corroless from eastwood? (i have some but havent used it yet) anyone else use it yet? comments? por-15? never had it. any comments? anything else out their? Thanks, Keith
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72 2wd blazer 72 swb 4x4 |
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#2 |
computer illiterate
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 6,446
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oh my! nobody has an opinion? whats wrong with you guys today?
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72 2wd blazer 72 swb 4x4 |
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#3 |
Designated A-hole!
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: South Mississippi
Posts: 36,450
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We are impatient....or at least some of us are.
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"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. ![]() We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck" |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada
Posts: 4,052
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I blasted the underside of my cab. I used a Etching primer and then a Epoxy primer then toped it off with a Polyurthain Paint (spell)
Should last for pretty long. If it is a daily driver I would have the truck sprayed with Crown ( a Canadian Company) or some kind of oil spray It works.
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1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD |
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#5 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,002
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I havent put Por-15 to the test yet but I have applied it and it looks to be a very good product, I have faith in it. It kinda goes on like stain on wood, the metal seems to aborb the Por-15
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Storm Lake, Ia
Posts: 1,449
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I have put por 15 on my last 2 cabs but they don't go out in bad weather anymore so I can't say on durabilty. The stuff sprays or brushes equally well. If the difficulty of getting it off your skin is any guage then the stuff should last forever.
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#7 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 281
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Not sure how the por15 will do on the underside. I sandblasted my finish mower and applied por15 to it a few years back. It stays outside and the paint is now like chalk and has surface rust coming back. If anyone knows of something that will stand up to the elements let us know. I was thinking about doing the underside of my Suburban with the spray in bedliner stuff.
Scott
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71 C10 Step Daily Driver 72 K10 Suburban Work in Progress www.louisianaclassictruckclub.com |
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#8 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: W. Atlanta, GA
Posts: 180
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Quote:
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'72 Chevy Custom/10 Shortbed '77 2wd K5 “Halfbaked” '93 Indy pace truck ‘70 GMC Jimmy ‘76 K5 Blazer Follow me on instagram @C10squared |
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#9 |
chevelito
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Honolulu, HI USA
Posts: 1,609
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i agree with everyone. the por-15 goes on real nice when hand painted. I used a roller and paint brush (for the hard to reach places). It says to keep it out of sunlight. It deteriorated in UV light.
jay
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New deadline...when my son can drive. ![]() Aloha from Honolulu, HI |
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#10 |
English Chevy Owner
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France
Posts: 1,848
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Over here in the UK we know a thing or two about rust. I use a rustproofing wax over whatever paint is on the underside of a car. These waxes (e.g. Waxoyl, Dinitrol) seal out the water, they remain slightly plastic and can self repair small scratches as they retain the ability to "creep" slightly even after they have set. You just spray it on on a nice warm day or keep the tin of wax in a bucket of warm water. It can also be used to rustproof inside box sections such as rocker boxes, you just drill a small hole and using a special probe squirt the wax in. The underside has to be re-done every couple of years ideally as it will eventually wear thin.
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Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,492
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You have to topcoat POR15 if it is going to be exposed to any sunlight. I even topcoat the underneath of my trucks even though they tell me I don't have to. Seems to be holding up great.
I did my first K20 with DP90 and that is not holding up so well. I never drive my finished trucks in the salt, but if I did the DP90 would be a problem. |
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#12 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Georgetown, KY, USA
Posts: 631
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I POR-15'ed the inside floor pan and around the windshield in my 69. Also the insides of the doors. A small roller (1x3) worked well for putting it on. It has n't been outside yet so no usefull data there.
I did the 60" mower deck on my John Deere 650 tractor last year. I just did the problem area, around the 3 blade hubs. This area always has grass laying on it. It is a thick steel, but was pitted in several areas from being wet over the last 17 years. I por-15'ed it, then used thier Chassis Coat. The Chassis Coat went on thick. Almost like a under coat. It has held up great. The Chassis coat has not faded. Still black. I don't clean it often at all. So it holds a lot of dust and clippings and water if it gets wet. I'm happy with the results here and would consider doing this to the underside of a cab. On my 68, I have done the rain gutter but have not yet finished it yet. The 68 sets outside and while the por-15 I used on teh gutter has faded. No rust has shown. The instructions tell you that it must be top coated or it will fade (not UV Protected). So I mind the fading. It faded within 3 weeks or so. That's my results with it so for.... |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Muskegon,MI,USA
Posts: 6,026
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We do the undersides by preping, (sand blast or strip rust) and then apply Rustoleum rusty metal primer, two coats. We then give the floor two coats of Rustoleum semi gloss. The last thing we do is undercoat, (overspray goes on top of undercoat). System works good if coverage is good, but we do touch up the undercoat if needed, (we check yearly).
We don't run our vehicles a lot in the winter, though. Jim |
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Mid-MI
Posts: 110
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I've use the Eastwood Corroless product and like it very much. Had my 72 Stripped and painted 5 years ago and after only 1 year some rust spots started to appear. This was odd since there were no rust areas where they appeared before the body was stripped. I ordered the eastwood product in 16oz. aerosol and told painter after stripping these areas for repaint to give the areas a good coating of Corroless, scuff sand them and recoat with the original basecoat/clearcoat. He did this and that was 4 years ago with 0 repeat of the original problem. Works for me...
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motoretro 1972 Chevrolet Custom 10 Lwb www.esivart.com/ebay/truck.gif |
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Thorntown , Indiana
Posts: 231
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On my 69 , I sandblasted the frame and underside of the cab ( did not remove the cab because it was in such good shape ) . After blasting I sprayed two medium coats of PPG 1791 Wash primer ( self etching) , then one wet coat of PPG 1990 sealer . I am waiting till I get the cab done to paint the frame and underside ,. because of overspray . The bottom side and frame will be done in PPG acrylic enamel with flattening agent, so it will be more of a satin black , versus gloss . Many ways to do it , but I have had great luck with this system . Just my 2 cents .... jyd
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#16 |
computer illiterate
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 6,446
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thanks for the info guys i guess ill order a gallon of por-15
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72 2wd blazer 72 swb 4x4 |
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#17 |
State of Confusion!
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Gulfport, MS USA
Posts: 46,923
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Meathead...Order the POR-15 in smaller containers. It has a limited shelf life, especially once ithas been opened. It also goes a long way. I bought their little six pack cans, that way I don't have to worry about a can going bad as fast.
I didn't do annything on my truck with it (too poor then), but I have done somesmall things since then, like yard tools and like and it holds up real well. It's a bi**h of extra prep though if you wantto paint over it. There's my $.02
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Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God! |
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#18 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 350
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About 10 years ago I used a product called "Extend" sold by Permatex (bought it at Wal-Mart). The literature talked about "chemical conversion" and "zinc phosphate" which I think is similar to the POR-15. Anyway, I applied it inside the doors of my F-100, where I couldn't reach with any power tools. Used a wire brush and vacuum, then applied it with a brush. Sprayed in a couple of coats of Rustoleum satin black as a topcoat. I had to get in there a couple of months ago as I dropped a straight egde into the window opening. Everything still looked good.
I would use it again if it is still available.
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'56 F-100 (w/all GM stuff) Lookin' for another parts chaser! ![]() '05 GMC crew cab |
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#19 |
Cantankerous Geezer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Bel Aire, KS
Posts: 6,264
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It will take a little over a quart of POR-15 to do the frame. I wouldn't buy a container bigger than a quart. Also, go some disposable gloves to wear. I would sandblast first, the clean. You won't need to etch after sandblasting.
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Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine. ![]() |
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#20 |
chevelito
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Honolulu, HI USA
Posts: 1,609
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ditto on the smaller containers.
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New deadline...when my son can drive. ![]() Aloha from Honolulu, HI |
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#21 |
www.loweredd.com
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Struble IA
Posts: 808
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Has anyone used it over rusty metal like they say to? Just curious. I would think that it would look better if you sandblasted or something.
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#22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,492
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I spray my POR15 so I'm sure that wastes a little more paint, but the finish comes out a bit better. Wear plenty of protective gear if you spray it. I had a respirator on, but no goggles. It ruined a pair of contacts. Wear gloves also cause this stuff will not come off!
They do recommend their etching mix on bare/rusty metal. Junkyarddog -- I hope you didn't sandblast that frame with the rearend and etc on it. That sand gets everywhere. You will be doing brakes, bearings and etc real soon. Been there done that mistake on a 38 Packard. I cringe when I see people sandblasting a tractor or vehicle intact. |
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#23 |
chevelito
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Honolulu, HI USA
Posts: 1,609
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it looks better if you sand it down smooth.
jay
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New deadline...when my son can drive. ![]() Aloha from Honolulu, HI |
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#24 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,002
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Don't forget to wear a respirator when applying it, very important!
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#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Storm Lake, Ia
Posts: 1,449
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If I were you I would do some research on a new product called Rust bullet. I have seen some ads that claim it to be better than por15. I think it may be less expensive too. Sounds like less prep work.
Anyone use this stuff yet?
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