Tank switch valve

[Aaron Burkemper]

Okay, I did a search and read posts until my eyes crossed. I have an 80 C30 with the single wire, six port valve. Clearly, these are no longer available.

I figure it is best just to retrofit the newer style motorized valve. Is there a simple method that someone could point me to, maybe even a previous post that has the solution without all the hypotheses from a bunch of different people?

Maybe this would be a good item for a sticky.

Thank you!

[TexasJeff]

Rock Auto says this one fits.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....144842&jsn=498

[Aaron Burkemper]

Unfortunately, that is the valve for 1981 and up. I ordered one from Advanced, had the picture of the correct valve and everything, but that is the one that arrived. I can't say I was surprised, but I was hopeful that I had gotten lucky.

[TexasJeff]

I know I got mine from the dealer, but that was years ago, mine be worth a check with the local dealer, they might be able to find you one.

[Aaron Burkemper]

I finished the conversion, using the instructions by Rich Weyand in this post:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=684116

It all worked the way it should. Mind you, it was a PITA bolting up the new switch valve (who puts bolts on TOP of the frame?) and replacing all the little hoses with fuel dripping above my head.

It worked out and I now have my two tanks back!

Thanks Rich!

[wilkin250r]

The basic theory is that the single-wire valve used one power wire, and two signal wires. The motorized valve uses two power wires, and one signal wire. Both systems utilize three wires, so you don't need to run an additional wire.

You WILL need to change the dashboard switch. It's completely different. How good are your electrical skills?

[Aaron Burkemper]

Fortunately, my electrical skills are fairly good. I am a maintenance mechanic at a beverage bottling plant, so that was one of the few challenges. With a couple of schematics and a trusty ohmmeter, I got it figured out.

I went to the junkyard and found the plugs I needed for the later style switch and the valve electrical connector (cost me a whopping $1). I bought a new factory-style switch off of Amazon, and the actual valve.

I just removed the actual terminals from the old dash switch plug and pressed them into the new plug.

It all came together and looks pretty clean.

I will say that this board had all the information I needed to get it accomplished.

I can see why the electric actuated, spring return valve could wear out faster, seeing as when you are on the aux tank the solenoid needs to be powered continuously. The new valve is an improvement in operation, though not as simple. Just like many things.