Is It Difficult To Replace The Driveshaft Carrier Bearing?

[ShortCST]

My 50 year old unit is loose. I just picked up a billet polyurethane unit from Brother's. The truck is on jack stands.

Am I opening a can of worms?

[Steeveedee]

Not too tough, though the parts could be pretty well stuck together. A little PB Baster or some such will be of great help. Two things-

1. Make sure that that you put the rear shaft back the way you found it, rotationally, with the front shaft. It's a balanced assembly, and it you get it out of phase, you'll be chasing your tail to get the vibration gone.

2. Make sure that you have the weight of your truck completely on the rear tires when you install the center support on the frame, so that the center support is...centered, in terms of drive line travel when underway.

Depending on how long it's been, you might want to pull the u-joints apart and lube them, if they don't have grease fittings. Based on what I'm seeing, they have no Zerk fittings.

ETA- I do see a Zerk fitting on the second shaft section, at the front. I'm that picky essobee that would take it apart anyway, just because.

[ShortCST]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Not too tough, though the parts could be pretty well stuck together. A little PB Baster or some such will be of great help. Two things-

1. Make sure that that you put the rear shaft back the way you found it, rotationally, with the front shaft. It's a balanced assembly, and it you get it out of phase, you'll be chasing your tail to get the vibration gone.

2. Make sure that you have the weight of your truck completely on the rear tires when you install the center support on the frame, so that the center support is...centered, in terms of drive line travel when underway.

Depending on how long it's been, you might want to pull the u-joints apart and lube them, if they don't have grease fittings. Based on what I'm seeing, they have no Zerk fittings.

ETA- I do see a Zerk fitting on the second shaft section, at the front. I'm that picky essobee that would take it apart anyway, just because.

Thanks! I just walked out of O'Reilly with a couple of new universal joints from Spicer. Not taking any chances.

So the two shaft pieces just need to be indexed to each other, and not to the transmission housing or the rearend housing in any way?

When I pull the shaft out of the transmission, and when I pull the other end out of the rearend, should I expect any fluids to come rushing out?

[brad_man_72]

I've been building and repairing driveshafts for 10 years.

1. Yes its a can of worms. The driveshaft needs to be rebalanced when the carrier bearing is replaced. Use the search function for carrier bearing. Many stories of them braking in a couple of weeks. Having the same problem over and over until its rebalanced.

2. The billit carrier bearing mounts the driveshaft solid to the frame.... and to the rear end that moves around! The billit carrier bearing requires the addition of a slip and stub in the rear shaft... and rebalanced.

This isn't a job that I would do at home and id question a professional driveline shop.
The driveshaft must be balanced complete as an assembly.
Machine shops don't buy $50,000 driveshaft balancers and we have 2 that are 15' long.

Your brothers truck is better off with the beat up carrier bearing than the new billit piece.

Go get your $100 back for that junk and have a professional driveline shop rebuild and balance the driveshaft with non greaseable ujoints and factory style carrier bearing.

[LEEVON]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

I've been building and repairing driveshafts for 10 years.

1. Yes its a can of worms. The driveshaft needs to be rebalanced when the carrier bearing is replaced. Use the search function for carrier bearing. Many stories of them braking in a couple of weeks. Having the same problem over and over until its rebalanced.

2. The billit carrier bearing mounts the driveshaft solid to the frame.... and to the rear end that moves around! The billit carrier bearing requires the addition of a slip and stub in the rear shaft... and rebalanced.

This isn't a job that I would do at home and id question a professional driveline shop.
The driveshaft must be balanced complete as an assembly.
Machine shops don't buy $50,000 driveshaft balancers and we have 2 that are 15' long.

Your brothers truck is better off with the beat up carrier bearing than the new billit piece.

Go get your $100 back for that junk and have a professional driveline shop rebuild and balance the driveshaft with non greaseable ujoints and factory style carrier bearing.

Take it from this guy, he touches shafts all day!

[ShortCST]

Ok, so I'll just put it back on the ground, and start calling drivetrain shops tomorrow. I'm not far from Inland Empire Driveline, so I'll check with them first.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

I've been building and repairing driveshafts for 10 years.

1. Yes its a can of worms. The driveshaft needs to be rebalanced when the carrier bearing is replaced. Use the search function for carrier bearing. Many stories of them braking in a couple of weeks. Having the same problem over and over until its rebalanced.

2. The billit carrier bearing mounts the driveshaft solid to the frame.... and to the rear end that moves around! The billit carrier bearing requires the addition of a slip and stub in the rear shaft... and rebalanced.

This isn't a job that I would do at home and id question a professional driveline shop.
The driveshaft must be balanced complete as an assembly.
Machine shops don't buy $50,000 driveshaft balancers and we have 2 that are 15' long.

Your brothers truck is better off with the beat up carrier bearing than the new billit piece.

Go get your $100 back for that junk and have a professional driveline shop rebuild and balance the driveshaft with non greaseable ujoints and factory style carrier bearing.

Must be driveshaft day, because I pulled one for the first time today. That's the easy part. Since then I've been busting my head how to correctly take it apart, refinish and re-assemble. You've answered a lot of my questions as well, thank you.

On a side, it boggles my brain thinking about why it matters how the slip yokes (two piece driveshaft) themselves are installed. I see no distinguishable differences on the spindles, exception being the transmission yoke has one larger gap between spindles. I see no such variance on the spindles in the transmission. I read that gap is common for transmission slip yokes, for multi-purpose applications. I also read the gap in the slip yoke was "to release air".

Originally Posted by LEEVON

Take it from this guy, he touches shafts all day!

Sorry Bradman, I had to laugh.

[Steeveedee]

I have replaced hundreds of u-joints and dozens of center supports and bearings, and have never had a balance problem afterward. I've only ever had a driveshaft balanced if it had been shortened or lengthened.

[ShortCST]

I'm going to drive to Inland Empire Driveline and get a quote. If it's more than I want to spend, I guess I'll attempt it myself in the driveway.

[jocko]

i am not a driveline expert so perhaps I've just been a lucky idiot when replacing these myself. Never had a problem and never rebalanced (never read anything in the service manuals that even recommended it), but I did always use stock over the counter parts store stuff.

[jocko]

Originally Posted by ShortCST

I'm going to drive to Inland Empire Driveline and get a quote. If it's more than I want to spend, I guess I'll attempt it myself in the driveway.

FWIW, that's my favorite driveline shop - they really are pros.

[rsgt]

When I did mine I marked everything before I took it apart so it will go together just like it was. I replaced all the u-joints and bearing. It is so smooth now.

[ShortCST]

The guy at Inland Empire todaytold me that lowering the truck (2" front/3" rear) is what blew the old rubber bearing carrier out. He said that for $400, they rebuild the shaft with a slip yoke for movement, rebalance the assembly, install all new u-joints, and use one of their rigid polyurethane bearing carriers.

Sound about right?

[Hidesertchevy]

Try JE reel drive shafts in Pomona ca

[AussieinNC]

Dropping the rear 3" will move the rear end forward approx 1/2" to 3/4".

The center bearing in your pic shows the flange on the rear shaft almost hard up against the carrier bearing outer face...but...

The bearing carrier itself appears to be at the very rear of the slots in the carrier frame.

The support bracket for the center bearing has slotted grooves to permit final adjustment of the center bearing carrier.

The center bearing carrier should not be fully tightened during reassembly until the full weight of the truck rear is loaded to the rear axle...support the rear axle on stands, then set the carrier bearing position in the slots to give you approx 1/2 " clearance to the flange.

You can save a large amount of cash by replacing the center carrier yourself and follow the correct setup process.

A drop of 3 inches does not require an expensive slider style rear half process. if it was 6 or 8 then you should be going that expensive route.

Also...stay away from billet carriers...they dont provide the longitudinal movement needed in the design.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Dropping the rear 3" will move the rear end forward approx 1/2" to 3/4".

The center bearing in your pic shows the flange on the rear shaft almost hard up against the carrier bearing outer face...but...

The bearing carrier itself appears to be at the very rear of the slots in the carrier frame.

The support bracket for the center bearing has slotted grooves to permit final adjustment of the center bearing carrier.

The center bearing carrier should not be fully tightened during reassembly until the full weight of the truck rear is loaded to the rear axle...support the rear axle on stands, then set the carrier bearing position in the slots to give you approx 1/2 " clearance to the flange.

You can save a large amount of cash by replacing the center carrier yourself and follow the correct setup process.

A drop of 3 inches does not require an expensive slider style rear half process. if it was 6 or 8 then you should be going that expensive route.

Also...stay away from billet carriers...they dont provide the longitudinal movement needed in the design.

Yup! And you have slots where the center support sits, which can accommodate the new position, probably. There is also some margin in the slip yoke. I also mentioned that the rear axle has to be supporting all the weight, when bolting the center support to the frame. Unless you are drag racing, the u-joints with grease fittings should be good for your application. The truck in my sig will take off burning rubber and chirp second, even with the shell on. I also tow a 5600 pound travel trailer and haven't seen a u-joint failure yet. U-joints without the holes thru for grease are a lot stronger, I will agree. I met my wife 37 years ago, and my FiL owned this truck. It's the original driveshaft, though I did put u-joints in it for him back in the late '90s.

[AussieinNC]

All good advice Steeveedee...

That truck in the sig looks sweet...

Stay safe mate ...

[ShortCST]

So I shouldn't have Inland Empire rebuild and rebalance my driveshaft with their billet poly bearing carrier for $400? If I remember correctly, they enjoy a pretty good reputation.

The reason that I went down there in the first place, is that I watched more than one YouTube video where a guy in his driveway wasn't having a ton of fun getting the old bearing off, and the new bearing on. Using a torch, using a jack...

Isn't it worth the money to have a reputable shop rebuild it for me?

And if that reputable shop uses billet/polyurethane bearing carriers, shouldn't I trust them?

If it's that shop that measured the shaft today with the truck on the ground, shouldn't I be safe with the assembly that they build me?

I REALLY appreciate all of the opinions, by the way.

[AussieinNC]

Afterall, its your money and truck my friend...

I have done lots of these and have had little to no issues...just use lots of patience...

I installed one billet support, once, for less than 30 minutes...never again...the vibrations were not acceptable...

I dropped the shaft back out again and put a standard unit in...that was five years ago...no vibrations, no issues...just take your time...

Ask em how much to put a standard carrier instead of the billet unit.?

Stay safe...conserve those dollars...

[jocko]

Did not realize your truck was lowered. While I am a big fan of IE Driveline (I went to them for driveshaft parts and to shorten a single 66 driveshaft when I stuck a T5 in it. They are very knowledgeable), I'd probably not go to them for something I "think" I can do myself. And that dividing line is different for everyone - there are lots of things I won't mess with and leave to the pros, like shortening a shaft - while some folks on here would have no hesitation in doing that themselves, so it's all relative. I haven't lowered a truck - so I don't know how much lowering will start to affect impingement on the carrier bearing even if using the mounting slots the full amount in the right direction - but it sounds like our aussie friend has this experience and has some pretty good advice. Was your driveshaft damaged in some way or has the bearing just gone out? If the latter, I'd buy a carrier bearing from an otc parts store, new u-joints, and follow the above advice. Also, while you have the d/s out, inspect the front shaft slip yoke carefully to look for a groove where the seal rides on it. If it's grooved significantly, replace it while you have things apart or it will be leaking soon if it isn't already. In the end, if it DOESN'T work, you're out the cost of a carrier bearing, a u-joint, and your time - worst case. And time matters, this is an afternoon job. Personally I despise replacing U-joints and the like, but that's just me - and I'll still do it before paying someone else to do it. Nothing wrong with what IE Driveline offered to do, and it's worth $400 of work, but I too question whether it's completely necessary with a 3" drop. Again, no drop experience, so take this with a grain of salt. But at $400, it's probably worth a try on your own if you have the time available. Only you can closely examine it - and if it looks like there just isn't any way to make it fit with weight-on-wheels, then save the time, and let IE do what they suggest - peace of mind therapy - then you definitely won't have to worry about it at all.

[ShortCST]

The driveshaft wasn't damaged in any way. The rubber just gave out. I watched a few YouTube vids as I noted earlier, and it didn't look like a lot of fun to get the old bearing and carrier off, let alone forcing a new one on.

A couple of earlier posters advised that I'd need to rebalance my driveshaft assembly, and since those guys only quoted $400+ tax, I thought it might be worth it.

I'm not afraid of getting my knuckles bloody (just installed a front disc conversion), and I'd definitely rather put that extra money toward a $3000 200 4R conversion, or air conditioning, or a $740 set of Ridetech adjustable shocks. But I also don't want to throw away a hundred bucks, get all dirty and bloody, cuss a lot, and then find out that I screwed something up. Or that I can't find the right swear words to get the parts off and on again.

If I use a regular OEM style rubber carrier, will I blow it out again, just by virtue of having a (albeit slightly) lowered truck?

[RenoKeene]

Its worth the $400, if your good with the price let the pros do it. If you have any problems its on them. Peace of mind has a value too.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by ShortCST

So I shouldn't have Inland Empire rebuild and rebalance my driveshaft with their billet poly bearing carrier for $400? If I remember correctly, they enjoy a pretty good reputation.

The reason that I went down there in the first place, is that I watched more than one YouTube video where a guy in his driveway wasn't having a ton of fun getting the old bearing off, and the new bearing on. Using a torch, using a jack...

Isn't it worth the money to have a reputable shop rebuild it for me?

And if that reputable shop uses billet/polyurethane bearing carriers, shouldn't I trust them?

If it's that shop that measured the shaft today with the truck on the ground, shouldn't I be safe with the assembly that they build me?

I REALLY appreciate all of the opinions, by the way.

You are just going to have to weigh the options presented here, and decide for yourself what you want to do. If you lived in my neighborhood, I would do it for you for a nominal fee. It really isn't all that difficult, but I say that with almost 50 years of experience (I was laying on my back rolling in a set of rod and main bearings under a '56 Chevy truck at the age of 16). If you have no experience with this, maybe your best bet is to find a shop to do that work. BUT, you could save a little dough if you take it out and bring it to them.

Also, I have exactly zero experience with the poly Vs neoprene cushion on the center support. If that poly bushing is like those in suspension pieces, I wouldn't use them. They don't have the same "softness" to them. Some people like that difference, but if you like the current feel of the drive train, that's something to think about.

[mike16]

I dont want to dispute the expertise of others who have decades of experience in driveshaft removal and replacement. but I have never had a driveshaft become unbalanced simply because the carrier bearing was replaced. I have heard of an incorrectly installed u joint doing it. but not a drive shaft.Mark everything befor disassembly and reassembly in reverse order.

what exactly is there to"rebuilding' a drive shaft....replacing a yoke or some u joints? I heard where one "rebuilder replaces both ends and the tube" too funny. drive shaft needs to be rebalanced after each component is replaces. YEP!

If a carrier bearing is tough to remove that is typical. just be carefull of the dust shield. dont bash or bend it up.

I say that because if you have gone as far as disassebling the drive shaft to install a carrier bearing. there is not much to installing new u joints at the same time....correctly. the grease fittings are the point of refference in any correct reassembly. note where they are before disassembly and reinstall them correctly upon reassembly. Maybe check to make sure they have been assembled correctly to begine with. and yours look like they have not been serviced in a while either so grease em up and maybe count on replaceing them at some point.

[wbc409]

Unless you have a hydraulic press, I wouldn't tackle the carrier bearing. I've done u joints with a big vice before and didn't enjoy it at all. It comes down to what you want to do with the truck. If you are planning on building a high powered engine step up to the more expensive driveshaft. If not, it's probably not necessary.