Tranny no shifty

[Terry S]

When I rebuilt the engine in my truck, I went with an edelbrock performer carb & aluminum intake, I took the opportunity to install a B&M shift kit in the turbo 350 transmission, as well as changing over to the lokar braided kickdown cable.

On the "test laps" around the block it wont shift out of first I commited the cardinal sin of changing so much stuff at once that now I have no idea where to start looking for the problem. Do I need to adjust the tv shift points, take vacuum from somewhere other than the manifold vacuum source on the carb or what?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

TS

[BLACK AND BLUE 67-72]

Here is a list of possible problems.
1. Governor malfunction.
2. Detent down-shift-cable binding.
3. Valve-body malfunction.
4. Intermediate-clutch malfunction.
5. Leaks or blockage in case assembly.
I can explain how to check for these things if you would like.

[Johns70]

if you installed a shift kit and the tranny was working right before, i would say you have a check ball in the wrong place.

[Terry S]

Whats a check ball?...just kidding, the B&M instructions call for 2 check balls, and I'm pretty sure that I put them in the proper place, but anything's possible. I just wanted to check all other options before I take the tranny apart again.

BTW, now that I think of it, when I put the tranny kit in, the transmission was still installed, so I used a daub of bearing grease to hold the balls in place until I could get the rest of the valve body back on, could it be that I just haven't got the tranny warm enough to free up the balls?

Just thinking out loud here...

[Terry S]

BLACK AND BLUE 67-72;

Sure, I would appreciate any troubleshooting techniques that you would like to share

[tom hand]

MMmm...check the simple things first. If the modulater valve is not getting vacuum, it won't shift out of first till over 4000 rpm, check that first

[lukecp]

Yup...make sure the vaccum hose is intact from a vaccum source to the tranny's vaccum modulator...if it falls of, it will cause the symptoms you are describing.

[BLACK AND BLUE 67-72]

First off I would check the check balls since you added the shift kit and used the grease they could be stuck. And check the modulator to make sure it is still hooked up. Definetly check the simple things first.If that is not it then it could be one of the things I mentioned.

1. Governor Malfunction: In-car. Check for governor seizure in bore. If OK, remove governor. Look for metal chips and foreign material. Check for free movement of governor valve when weights are inverted. If stuck, clean governor assembly. Check for jammed inner weights. Also check for damaged, worn, or loose nylon governor gear. If defective, also check for loose retaining pin or rough finish on governor drive gear on output shaft. Nylon governor driven gear may be replaced separately. Also check for a loose governor stop pin in case.

2. Detent down-shift- cable binding: In-car. Disconnect cable at throttle linkage and check for free movement . If stuck, remove pan and check for free movement of the valve.

3. Valve-Body Malfunction: In-car. Remove pan. Check for loose valve-body bolts. Remove valve body and check for damaged, incorrect or mispositioned spacer-plate gaskets. Check for blocked governor feed channels and screens. Shake valve-body assembly and check for stuck 1-2-shift valve train-in downshifted position.

4. Intermediate clutch malfunction: Remove transmission. Remove the front pump and check for damaged, missing or improperly installed intermediate-clutch-piston seals. Check the intermediate roller clutch for broken or bent springs, missing rollers or a damaged cage. Also check the intermediate-1-2-accumulator piston on right side of case for damaged or worn seal rings.

5. Leaks or blockage in case assembly: This is the real pain!! Remove and disassemble the transmission, check for blocked governor feed channels and excessive wear in governor bore in the case. If bore is worn or scored, ream oversize and install a bushing sleeve.

Something you might try first is pulling the pan and tap on the valve body with a hammer to see if that will free up the balls. I hope that doing this will help your problem, because as you can see the causes get more complicated the farther down the list!!!

[Hotrod70C10]

If it's any help, I used vasaline to hold up the check ball I installed back into my th-350 with the b&m shift kit. Try using vasaline if you have to pull it back apart.

[cableguy0]

the grease is probably too thick and now the check balls cant do what they need to because they are stuck. you can just sit the check balls in the hole on top of the valve body plate while you hold it up and get a bolt started its not that hard to do you just gotta be careful

[Terry S]

Thanks for all the input guys, I played with it for a while tonight after work and it turned out to be a vacuum leak where the tv cable was plugged into the carb base.

I love it when a fix is that simple!

[shifty]

I am not a tranny, damnit!

(holy thread bump, Batman!)

[Longhorn Man]

i just wanna know what exactly shifty was searching for to bring up a post 4 1/2 years old.
Hmmmm...

[shifty]

Honestly? The word "Seizure".

[Longhorn Man]

yeah, I never had much luck with the search either.