sound deadening inside doors

[forestb]

I am planning on putting sound deadening inside my doors and have some questions for those that have done it before.

1) Should i put it on the inside of the utter door skin or the inside of the inner door skin?

2) I assume that there is some dirt and surface rust inside my doors. How should I prep them before adding the deadening material.

[The Rocknrod]

Sound deadening, not insulation - Assuming your going to put an asphalt type flat pieces of sound deadening - Both sides, I use more on the outside or a bigger piece. You only truly need a 12"x12" piece on the outside. On the inside a couple of strips 12" long.
Prepping is always wise even if you just had the truck painted.

[dtkarst]

On my 64 c20 daily driver I just pulled the door panels off o it and sprayed rattle can undercoating on the back sides of the panels and rolled up the windows and tried to cost the inside of my doors as well. Also did behind the fuel tank and bought the jute paddin for my carpet. Anyone that drives it that isn't me always thinks it dies when they stop because it's so quiet inside.

[kerber63]

X2 on the rattle can undercoating. I laid it on pretty thick on the inside of the outer door skin and the back side of the door panel. I made sure to clear out the drain holes when I was done. It made a big difference in noise level.

[AcampoDave]

I did mine like the Master Chief. The doors thump when you rap on them as oppose to sounding like a drum and the noise was dramatically reduced.

[Clyde65]

I put about 5 strips on the inside of the door panel and about the same on the inside of the outer door metal. Just enough to take the tin metal sound out some. I have not driven mine yet so not sure if I need to add more.

[forestb]

Sense it is so hard to get to how should I prep it?

[dtkarst]

I just sprayed it with some lacqour thinner, let it air out, ten sprayed it

[Vinceg]

I cleaned my doors out the best I could. Washed with soap and water then wiped down with wax and oil degreaser. It is a bit of a pain to get inside the door but I didn’t want the stuff falling off after a bit. I used a product called Bam matting. Made by focal. It is a butal rubber product with a foam backing instead of foil like dynamat. I couldn’t believe how sticky this stuff actually is. I did the back wall of the cab, the floor, cab corners from bottom to top as far up as I could reach. The firewall including the cowl. I did my best to coat the entire inside panel of the door. The hard part is getting all the way down in the front lower corner and around the door hinge braces. The removable panel was the easy part! Lol! The truck still isn’t on the road so I don’t know how well the road sound will be. Fingers crossed! I cant find my pic of the entire floor done. This pic was only the back of the cab. Then I used a back wall covering out of an 88 I think. Just had to drill a few holes. And trim the bottom.

['63GENIII]

I sprayed mine with undercoating when I did the power window install. It made a huge difference!

I first cleaned with a long brush and Dawn dish soap. Rinsed with water, dried then sprayed the undercoat. I had a bunch of cans of it and liked the Lizard Skin approach for the inaccessible areas. Took a couple of days to dry but has not come off at all. No smell. Worked great.

One thing I did was use my knuckles to "tap" everywhere on the door to find the places that resonated. I found that the window frames actually made more noise than the rest of the door. I cut small strips of the Fat mat style stuff that I had left over from the cab floor and back, to put behind the felt channel which knocked that noise down a bunch.

Whatever you end up doing, it will never be like a "new" car but will be loads better than what we have to start with.

FWIW, I did the Fat Mat style stuff to the inner and outer panel of the doors but it did fall off after a little while which created its own annoying noise.

[rvrfoot]

I just got new repos doors. I am thinking about the same thing.