lowering blocks to level stock stance

[rockyrivermark]

Just an FYI for anyone looking level their C10 keeping stock front height. Im just a shadetree mechanic so hopefully this isn't too far off base but worked for me.
I found the 1 3/4" lowering blocks took my stock hieght c10 with a 350CU to a nice level stance.
ordered blocks off ebay
solid aluminum block and longer new threaded U bolts
Jack up under the diff, always add a jack stand for safety.
Remove the wheel
put another jack under the trailer arm (I did one side at a time)
take the nuts off the U bolts with impact and I needed some heat to get them to move.
take a rachet strap from drum and hook the other end to the frame under the cab somehwere. this will keep things from moving off line.
slowly lower the jack that's under the trailing arm and work out the U bolt out.
I left my shocks on and the shock bracket just dropped off.
install the block and work new U bolts in and tighten everything up. U bolts may take a bit of fiddling with but just adjust rachet strap if needed or a bump with a hammer.
Remember to put the shock bracket through U bolt holes first.
Note: when you go to do the other side put a jack stand under the axle of the first side you did. otherwise that side will drop.
Personally I didn't want to lower my truck but didn't like the factory rake either . This leveled off the truck nicely.
took about an hour.
hope it helps someone else later.
RRM

[Old_Gold]

Nice write up, and the truck looks great!

[bbrriiaann1973]

I like the rake look on my 70 c10

[thegrandiman]

Planning on doing this tomorrow with mine. Going the 2" though. Thanks!

[NorCalC20LWB]

Great info, thinking of doing the same thing with my C20. Would the procedure and results be the same with rear leafs?

[rockyrivermark]

So while the body of my c10 is now level with the ground the measurement from top of wheel well to top of center cap was off by 3/8" and it just didn't look quite right. the rear wheel well was measuring lower. Possibly the aftermarket short bedsides at play here.
again I used a 1 3/4" lowering block at first and needed to cut it down to
1 3/8".
Being a carpenter and not a machinist it was off the the trusty '64 unisaw.
Triple chip carbide blade will cut aluminum but only a bit at a time.
Raise the saw 1/8" cut both sizes, raise again, cut and so on until through at the center.
just for FYI.. I think a 1 1/4" lowering block will take a stock raked stance to level. not the 1 3/4" i first posted here.
RRM
so annoyed with iphone pictures turning. Even if I flip them in my pc the post turned.. urgh.
only way to avoid it that i can find is to rememeber to take the picuture with phone horizontal.

[bbrriiaann1973]

I like the rack look better

[hewittca]

I'm a fan of the leveled look. I'm curious though what you mean by level here when you mention the wheel arch to center cap measurement being off 3/8". If I recall correctly (and I've measured this before on my own truck) the rear wheel arch is 2" lower than the front arch. So, when the truck is "level" when measured along the lower body line, the rear arch to center cap measurement should be 2" shorter than the measurement in the front. In stock configuration, the measurements should be the same front to rear and you will actually have a 2" rake.

[RustyBucket]

Personal preference, I like level too but lowered some. Installed 4" drop springs + a 1" block.. also shock relocators and an adj. panhard bar. Rear ended up a little lower than the 2.5 spindle dropped front. Didn't like that so I cut 1 spring coil on the front. Not very scientific but I think I'm done.
Had to look at your '70 in some of your other posts.. LOVE that orange & white!!! Nice truck.

[rockyrivermark]

Originally Posted by bbrriiaann1973

I like the rack look better

Then I wouldn't suggest the blocks. Make sure you have exact tire pressure to factory specs or that "rack" stance will be off.