Please help with 71K20 suspension

[1968k20]

My app is a '71 K20 with a 4" lift
Story: I replaced the steering gear box this summer, and had to patch together the tie rod ends. I put used ones on and ordered a new kit for later installation. I can't remember what part I removed( weather or not it was a lowering female end for the tie rods to screw in). I need to make sure that my steering is correct. As seen from the pictures, it does look like it was built with the correct steering arm when the lift was put on.

[1968k20]

Second pic

[1968k20]

Better picture

[1968k20]

Pitman

[1968k20]

New parts

[sweetk30]

you have a few problems .

first your drag link needs a slight down hill slope to the axle . your currently level or slight nose low at the box .

ditch the raised arm and go back to stock on the steering knuckle on the axle . that raised arm on the axle / knuckle almost looks like its for a 6" lift but i have not played with them in years to be 100% correct on this . i just play with dana 60 axles anymore .

next is the stock pitman arm looks loose on the pinch bolt and the splines might be worn on the sector shaft out of the box and also the pitman arm its self. it needs to be removed to verify this . then new parts as needed .

last the new steering parts are for a lift kit correction of all stock stuff ( you dont have this ) and them drop drag links SUCK !

here is a great thread posted on another board from the owner of offroad design that has been building stuff for these trucks for years . read this a bit to understand the angle of the drag link . https://ck5.com/forums/threads/stock...-think.329820/

hope this info helps you .

[1968k20]

Thank you! I will make some adjustments.

[sweetk30]

yep . i am no expert . just info i have learned over the years and few good info links saved .

[1968k20]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

yep . i am no expert . just info i have learned over the years and few good info links saved .

I like that ck5 forum. Just picked up a 71 Blazer

[sweetk30]

Originally Posted by 1968k20

I like that ck5 forum. Just picked up a 71 Blazer

been there for years same user name .

like this place also . just dont know why i never spent much time here

[Bigdav160]

first your drag link needs a slight down hill slope to the axle .

Why? That seems like a recipe for bump steer

your currently level or slight nose low at the box

I would think level would be preferred.

<----Not a 4WD expert

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

last the new steering parts are for a lift kit correction of all stock stuff ( you dont have this ) and them drop drag links SUCK !

I'd like to hear why you think the drop drag links suck. I've used several and never had a problem. A few were on trucks with 12"+ lift, some with 6-8", and I have one on my 72 K30 right now. They sure beat a POS lift block that shears studs on a D60.

1968K20, that steering arm is listed by most places as needed on 4"-6" lifts. But it really depends on who's lift kit you get. Places use different springs and rates and that can effect the drag link. I would definitely check the pitman arm on the box and make sure it isn't worn from being loose. I've ran the same steering arm as you on lifted K20s with D44s a lot of times and they worked pretty well. Your drag link going down hill towards the steering box could cause some bump steer. I've always tried to get mine close to level but angled slightly to the rear if possible like the thread SweetK30 posted.

[1968k20]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I'd like to hear why you think the drop drag links suck. I've used several and never had a problem. A few were on trucks with 12"+ lift, some with 6-8", and I have one on my 72 K30 right now. They sure beat a POS lift block that shears studs on a D60.

1968K20, that steering arm is listed by most places as needed on 4"-6" lifts. But it really depends on who's lift kit you get. Places use different springs and rates and that can effect the drag link. I would definitely check the pitman arm on the box and make sure it isn't worn from being loose. I've ran the same steering arm as you on lifted K20s with D44s a lot of times and they worked pretty well. Your drag link going down hill towards the steering box could cause some bump steer. I've always tried to get mine close to level but angled slightly to the rear if possible like the thread SweetK30 posted.

Thank you! The steering does feel funny. At slow speeds, it feels like it " catches", and at higher speeds, I do have to keep on top of the steerin g wheel, because it wants to wander in the lane.
My problem is, I replaced the steering box at the same time, and assume that it was a poor rebuild? It could be the tie rods ends as well, so I am not exactly sure where to start. I bought the drop drag link hoping that I could just bolt everything together!

[Dieselwrencher]

When did the catching start? Before the steering box install or after? Are you sure you have all the air out of the power steering system? The fluid aerating can cause the jerking feel due to lack of fluid and or air in the system. Have you checked the tie rod ends for wear, and have you checked the toe? Shoot, even loose bearings in the hub can effect drive ability. Just trying to get some more info to help you without you having to break the bank.

[sweetk30]

bigdave160 read the detailed info in the link i provided .

and the drop drag link thing has just never been the best used item . . when rolling in normal sweeping motion it gets in weird angles .

some guys get lucky some dont with them .

dana 60 lift blocks should never be used there way to crappy a casting and to long on the studs .

drop pitman arm is best and if more is needed and still push/pull steering is used try a dodge arm on the axle with the tapper redone for top load and gm size . its a cheep raised arm for the axle .

anymore than these few options it should be crossover for best results .

pic 1 is dodge arm

pic 2 is drop pitman arm 2-3" lift used .

[1968k20]

Seems like the drop pitman arm is the best bet. Mine just does not fit all the way up like I think it should.

[1968k20]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

When did the catching start? Before the steering box install or after? Are you sure you have all the air out of the power steering system? The fluid aerating can cause the jerking feel due to lack of fluid and or air in the system. Have you checked the tie rod ends for wear, and have you checked the toe? Shoot, even loose bearings in the hub can effect drive ability. Just trying to get some more info to help you without you having to break the bank.

Catching started after the steering box was installed, and yes, I believe I have worn tie rod ends.

[Dieselwrencher]

If it's in the steering box, you better get it back to where ever you got it from and exchange it before it's too late.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I'd like to hear why you think the drop drag links suck. I've used several and never had a problem. A few were on trucks with 12"+ lift, some with 6-8", and I have one on my 72 K30 right now. They sure beat a POS lift block that shears studs on a D60.

1968K20, that steering arm is listed by most places as needed on 4"-6" lifts. But it really depends on who's lift kit you get. Places use different springs and rates and that can effect the drag link. I would definitely check the pitman arm on the box and make sure it isn't worn from being loose. I've ran the same steering arm as you on lifted K20s with D44s a lot of times and they worked pretty well. Your drag link going down hill towards the steering box could cause some bump steer. I've always tried to get mine close to level but angled slightly to the rear if possible like the thread SweetK30 posted.

The dropped drag link does nothing to correct steering geometry except alleviate the ball joint angles. Bump steer will be the same as with an angled drag link. A slight upward or downward angle on the drag link will not make much difference.

[Dieselwrencher]

Ok..........................