1966 C10 Power Steering conversion issue

[Tom66C10]

I installed the parts to convert my 66 C10 to power steering. I am having a clearance issue. I used a Captain Fab bracket, Cardone 27-7501 gear box, and a Moog K6143 Pitman Arm. I basically bought everything for a 1970 C10. The issue I have is the drag link hits the frame right at the center of the drag link. Also, the inner tie rod end on the drivers side hits the frame as well right where the grease zerk is.

Am I using the wrong pitman arm? Wrong gear box?

Please helllpppp!

Thank you!

Tom Jenkins

[joelbert62]

Just came across this .Did you sort it out ? I have similar problem but it just rubs a little . Its cure is going to newer idler arm , bracket , center link . but mine works as is. this fix I understand helps the issue of turning tighter one way than the other also . I found this info here. FYI I also used the same kit . think you have to use a adapter outer tie rod end if I remember correctly. I hope to do this on my 64.

[Captainfab]

There have been a few of my customers with this issue, but no one ever comes back to tell us what they did to correct the issue. The last person with this issue did not have the pitman arm on all the way. I told them to tighten it up, but they never came back.

[joelbert62]

Like I said mine works fine I have no gripe of Captianfab's kit/ plate , I knew this may happen going in from reading other threads here . my centerlink/draglink just rubs a little no issue with the tie rod end . my pitman arm was put on with a good 1/2 in impact gun and it is on there well. I will try and see is I can find the thread I read about this, I am SOO glad to have power steering now. you will be to Tom66c10

[bigdisplay442]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

There have been a few of my customers with this issue, but no one ever comes back to tell us what they did to correct the issue. The last person with this issue did not have the pitman arm on all the way. I told them to tighten it up, but they never came back.

I'm one of them and I still don't have mine figured out even after buying the ( other ) type of bracket where you drill out the threads on the bottom of the gear box. It does add a little more clearance which actually allowed me to put the pitman arm on, where I couldn't before, But I'm having the exact same issue as the OP.
I know this thread is two years old, but I was hoping TOM ( OP ) figured out a solution to clearance issue.
I'm using the original center link and tierods, I replaced the pitman arm with a Moog. And I have 2" drop spindles with disk brakes. Still 6 lug. fyi

If I had a shorter Pitman arm and a repositioned idler arm just an inch shorter. I would be fine, but I can't locate a shorter pitman arm.

[GoingDown8]

I had the same issue. I went from a 6143 pitman arm to a 6131 pitman arm. Also made sure the arm was seated enough on the steering box. That helped alot and no longer rubs in the middle of the crossmember. I dont know how much clearance was there stock, and the truck is still on jack stands. But looks good now..
Posted via Mobile Device

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by GoingDown8

I had the same issue. I went from a 6143 pitman arm to a 6131 pitman arm. Also made sure the arm was seated enough on the steering box. That helped alot and no longer rubs in the middle of the crossmember. I dont know how much clearance was there stock, and the truck is still on jack stands. But looks good now..
Posted via Mobile Device

I'm assuming the 6131 is shorter?
Just got this info from Moog:
Moog K6131 center-line dimensions 5.137 in
Moog K6143 center-line dimensions 5.059 in
Did you mean you anded up with K6143?

[GoingDown8]

No I ended up with the 6131, can triple check the part number after I get home from work. I got the info from a different forum and was stuck on this issue so I gave it a shot. Going by moogs spec its longer. Not sure if its a slightly different bend or if the bore/splines are different allowing it to fit further onto the steering gear.
Posted via Mobile Device

[bigdisplay442]

I used an AC Delco and some other brand pitman arm, both are within 1/8" of each other. From the measurements, I could find online, 1/8" was about the only difference I could find. Nothing with a 1/2" or 1" like I wanted. I guess I'm gonna do like GD8 did and put mine on the ground and see what it looks like. My truck is complete, just up on the lift right now. I just don't see how it will move the inner tie-rods/grease zerk out away from the edge of the lower A-arms.
I really appreciate y'alls reply! I will post back my findings when I get home next weekend.

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by GoingDown8

No I ended up with the 6131, can triple check the part number after I get home from work. I got the info from a different forum and was stuck on this issue so I gave it a shot. Going by moogs spec its longer. Not sure if its a slightly different bend or if the bore/splines are different allowing it to fit further onto the steering gear.
Posted via Mobile Device

Ya it could have a slightly different bend in it.

[Captainfab]

The only helpful feedback info I have received is that most of the replacement pitman arms are not machined so as to allow them to be installed onto the sector shaft as far as they need to be. Even MOOG has the issues. If the pitman arm is not onto the sector shaft all the way, the draglink will be closer to the crossmember. Here is a thread about the pitman arms.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=804452

[The Rocknrod]

Interesting. The end result on that thread was CCP Pitman arm FA694.
CCP say's it has 32 splines with 4 master keys. Wonder if that will work on mine. Not sure I have 4 master keys on my Gear Box output shaft. Maybe I do. "If you get real close to the screen like I do..."

[Lokin4AReason]

Will be interested in know the outcome of this problem
As i will be doing the same shortly
What drag link was used tho ?

[T and S]

I can slip a piece of paper between my draglink and frame, it's close, but it works . I did loosen up the bolts holding the idler arm to the frame. Their is just a little slop in the bolts, and will give you a touch more room. I also used Capt. Fabs bracket. I just wonder if you are not real precise on taping the template to the frame when you drill for the power steering box, it could cause some of the problem. 1/8th off inch when drilling the mounting holes could cause interference problems ...

[LostMy65]

I remember an older related thread where they talked about different length pitman arms. And i remember them even saying how the longer pitman arm gave them a tighter turning radius.

[bigdisplay442]

I closed my photobucket accout due to their new policies. So I'm still sorting out the whole picture hosting thing but here is a link to the pics I took while the truck was on the ground. I didn't sort them. But maybe it's enough to give some ideas.



https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q...NtKfFKFa344BOc

[bigdisplay442]

I think I'm gonna give the CCP pitman arm a try. Autozone carries it, but it's almost $90 there. versus $40 from CCP. We"ll see what that does.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by bigdisplay442

I closed my photobucket accout due to their new policies. So I'm still sorting out the whole picture hosting thing but here is a link to the pics I took while the truck was on the ground. I didn't sort them. But maybe it's enough to give some ideas.



https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q...NtKfFKFa344BOc

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=627506

[88Stanger]

I had basically a very similar issue, after many frustrating hours of trying to fix it, i got mad and ordered the POL Rack & Pinion kit. Fits perfect and no issues with aftermarket larger sway bar. Cost a bit at $900.00 but problem solved. Sorry i know that does not help much for most here, just another solution.

[bigdisplay442]

Yeap..... I solved my problem. If you have the same issue described below, then this should fix it. I bought the CCP pitman arm and here is a side by side picture showing the difference. I now have 1/4 clearance to the engine cradle as where I couldn't even install the other pitman arm because of negative clearance before. Thanks to everyone for their input. The CCP pitman arm is the one shown installed.

[Captainfab]

Thanks for letting us know the results. Did the pitman arm from CPP install onto the shaft farther than the other one?

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by bigdisplay442

Yeap..... I solved my problem. If you have the same issue described below, then this should fix it. I bought the CCP pitman arm and here is a side by side picture showing the difference. I now have 1/4 clearance to the engine cradle as where I couldn't even install the other pitman arm because of negative clearance before. Thanks to everyone for their input. The CCP pitman arm is the one shown installed.

You went with the CCP Pitman arm FA694?

[bigdisplay442]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Thanks for letting us know the results. Did the pitman arm from CPP install onto the shaft farther than the other one?

I didn't see much, if any, difference in how far up the splined shaft it traveled/mounted, the biggest difference is the curve or offset difference between the two pitman arms. I believe that's what did the trick for me.

Originally Posted by LostMy65

You went with the CCP Pitman arm FA694?

Yes, I used the FA694.

[The Rocknrod]

Great info and thank you for the follow up on this.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by bigdisplay442

I didn't see much, if any, difference in how far up the splined shaft it traveled/mounted, the biggest difference is the curve or offset difference between the two pitman arms. I believe that's what did the trick for me.


Yes, I used the FA694.

It looks like the radius may be larger - which is a good thing. Moves it further away from the crossmember and will increase the turning radius.