68 C10 Rearend Hitting Wood Bed

[brandon325]

I was hoping someone could help me understand why my rearend is hitting the under side of my wood bed. Here's some details of my configuration.

1968 Chevy C10 SWB
2 in lowering blocks
Stock trailing arms
air bags in rear
c-notch
CPP shock relocators
20 in wheels

The issue is not with the tires rubbing or anything like that. I'm starting to install the new wood bed and in the process I found out that when the air is out of the bags and it sits on the 1/2 inch bump stop (provided in cnotch kit from CPP) the rearend is about 2 inches past where the bed is suppose to be. See pics. I know I could put a 2 inch bump stop but that kinda defeats the whole purpose of having the c-notch. I would have to inflate the bag so much the ride would be super stiff and zero travel into the c-notch. Would the tubed trailing arms help? I know the geometry is different, I just don't know if its going to help? Also, would removing the 2 inch blocks help much. I really don't want to raise the truck back up. Any suggestions?

[SCOTI]

Very common. The rear pumpkin will contact the floor once the truck is dropped far enough. Go w/some taller bump-stops or raise the floor.

[mongocanfly]

(2 in lowering blocks Stock trailing arms air bags in rear c-notch)
^^^this^^^.....like said..most raise the bed floor.....

[brandon325]

Thanks for the feedback. Any good sources on how to raise the bed without damaging my new paint job. Obviously, I didn't think it through.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by brandon325

Thanks for the feedback. Any good sources on how to raise the bed without damaging my new paint job. Obviously, I didn't think it through.

Easiest way is a 2nd/top faux floor. Install the regular floor that positions the bed/body relative to the frame but that's cut-out for clearance over the rear end. Add spacers the required height on top of that & do a 2nd floor on top. Their will be additional weight but it can be minimized using lighter weight materials.

Something like this.....
http://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com/page2.php

[68is4me]

I am in the same situation. I am just going to cut the boards out to allow the pumkin to sit lower. Then I will hopefully make a small hump out of metal to cover it up. I don't have it all figured out yet but I don't want to raise the bed floor.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 68is4me

I am in the same situation. I am just going to cut the boards out to allow the pumkin to sit lower. Then I will hopefully make a small hump out of metal to cover it up. I don't have it all figured out yet but I don't want to raise the bed floor.

Lots of guys do it this way as well.

On my 67, I raised the original steel floor up 4" & stepped the area above the housing up another 4". On my CC dually, I used the OE front rear floor sections to position the bed, added spacers, & a 2nd floor on top. On my 64, I'll be raising the floor 6".

I prefer the flat floor for trucks that still get used as a truck. It's much easier for loading/unloading heavy stuff.

[DLW]

My PB notches came with a 1.5" bump stop, and aired out I have about 1/8-3/16" before hitting the bed floor, so pretty much the same situation as you. Would love to get another inch drop back there, but really hate to cut the bed floor up to achieve it, but am thinking about it.

[chevy_mike]

Not sure why this is surprising. GM designed the truck to have diff clearance when it gets no lower than factory max compression. If you notch the frame, you are changing the max compression and then run into bed floor clearance. Yeah..... GM didn't design these for notching the frame.

[60apache]

here is what I did