CPP Trailing Arm Kit - Coil Springs Angle way off?

[Mattchu60]

I am working on installing the CPP trailing arm kit on my 1987 short box. While this kit promises to be "bolt-in" its turning out to be anything but that - stuff is bent/welded poorly but I am making it work so far. I have another hurdle I think - first I would like input on if this is wrong or if I just think its wrong.

The coil spring angle seems way off. I cannot think its supposed to be this way but I'd like input - should I just be pulling the spring way over to get it into the mount? I can do that, but the angle of the mount is the opposite of the trailing arm angle, so the spring is bent outward pretty good when I do that. My fear is eventually the retainers would fail as the spring is trying to be strait all the time.

I don't think many people have probably tried this kit - at this point i would advise not to. I did try calling CPP a few times - I just seemed to get passed around in a loop and never really talked with anyone there.

I believe the only option will be for me to cut the mount off and re-weld it where it should have been all along - further back and more of a flat angle - the two white lines next to the current support bracket are where I am thinking of re-welding the coil supports at.

[Katrina/10]

The angles will change a lot when you put the full weight of the bed and everything on it. I am not familiar with that kit, but it doesn't look like it would be too bad with the spring compressed.

[SCOTI]

The angle makes it look like that bracket should be on the opposite side/frame rail. Send that pic to CPP & hound them for feedback. Something is clearly wrong looking @ that pic.

[Mattchu60]

I decided to email CPP - We will see what they say.

[MalibuSSwagon]

No thats just how it is. You have to spin the spring around or maybe even mount it upside down to get it to somewhat line up. It was a real pain to get the spring to line up and bolt up. I still don't have my truck on the road right now but going to make a push soon to have it happen.

If you want feedback from CPP on this kit I would suggest calling the company and asking for Jeff Norton. He was originally involved in the R+D for the C10 kit. Despite this, he was not much help since I called regarding the location of the trailing arm crossmember in the frame. You'd think that a kit made for a specific chassis would have at least some measurements for locating the custom parts on the frame. In fact the only measurement provided is an approximate measurement for the axle saddles on the axle. Lame. I asked for engineering documents, I sent pictures, etc. My issue was that I had gaps between the frame rails and the crossmember on the drivers side. I eventually just drilled the holes in the right places and socked it down with the bolts, this closed the gaps.

Other issues I had, the shock crossmember is a super tight fit in the frame. Also, the shocks need to be super short, using front shocks on the back right now which isn't ideal. The e-brake bracket had to go since it was right in the way of the control arm. The "kit" provides no solution for this and I need one. Exhaust clearance is terrible at best. 2 piece factory driveshaft will fit, despite warnings in the instructions otherwise. Jeff at CPP was unaware of this so they just assumed it would not fit?

I am seriously unimpressed with this kit and really wishing now I had just swapped to 1/2ton leafs and spent my money on Cal-tracs, or went with another system that was more well thought out and engineered. At least something that someone inexperienced with custom suspension could figure out. My only other regret is not posting my experience sooner so others could avoid this kit.

[bluex]

Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon

No thats just how it is. You have to spin the spring around or maybe even mount it upside down to get it to somewhat line up. It was a real pain to get the spring to line up and bolt up. I still don't have my truck on the road right now but going to make a push soon to have it happen.

If you want feedback from CPP on this kit I would suggest calling the company and asking for Jeff Norton. He was originally involved in the R+D for the C10 kit. Despite this, he was not much help since I called regarding the location of the trailing arm crossmember in the frame. You'd think that a kit made for a specific chassis would have at least some measurements for locating the custom parts on the frame. In fact the only measurement provided is an approximate measurement for the axle saddles on the axle. Lame. I asked for engineering documents, I sent pictures, etc. My issue was that I had gaps between the frame rails and the crossmember on the drivers side. I eventually just drilled the holes in the right places and socked it down with the bolts, this closed the gaps.

Other issues I had, the shock crossmember is a super tight fit in the frame. Also, the shocks need to be super short, using front shocks on the back right now which isn't ideal. The e-brake bracket had to go since it was right in the way of the control arm. The "kit" provides no solution for this and I need one. Exhaust clearance is terrible at best. 2 piece factory driveshaft will fit, despite warnings in the instructions otherwise. Jeff at CPP was unaware of this so they just assumed it would not fit?

I am seriously unimpressed with this kit and really wishing now I had just swapped to 1/2ton leafs and spent my money on Cal-tracs, or went with another system that was more well thought out and engineered. At least something that someone inexperienced with custom suspension could figure out. My only other regret is not posting my experience sooner so others could avoid this kit.

Wow, that sucks to hear. I figured this kit had to be better than mine was but apparently they both suck. Hate that your having so much trouble out of it man.

I had to run my exhaust out the pass side in front of the tire. Wasnt what I wanted but that was all there was room for. On the E-brake I just moved the bracket back until it cleared the trailing arm.

I can get part numbers off my rear shocks but I dont think they mount the same on the CPP kit. I will look at the install article and see though.

[Mattchu60]

Ok - Sounds like I am not alone on this then!

I agree about that front crossmember - there is a 1/2" (maybe more) gap on the lower drivers side - the frame factory flared downward in that area and the crossmember supplied does not account for that. My plan is to heat it and bend it down to match.

Other issues i had was that my c-notch was out of square - it was leaned in 1/8" - i bent my frame up to meet it which wasn't too hard - but it should be square.

I also have the E-brake clearance problem - I believe I can make a plate to mount it to the outside of the frame rail and it'll clear the trailing arm.

Stuff like this is frustrating when you spend a lot of money to buy some brackets and nothing is close to right. I'm moving the mounts now (already cut them off the bracket) to where they should be. I'll post some pics when done. I'm gonna make this work -too far into it now.

[bluex]

It is frustrating but the improvement in the handling and the ride will be worth it in the end. I'm really happy with mine and how it performs.

[MalibuSSwagon]

Yea I'm pretty frustrated with it. But I'm working it out currently and hope to actually drive the truck soon and see if it was worth it. I am going to be swapping in a 71-72 5 lug 12 bolt trailing arm axle, I found one in great shape within a reasonable driving distance last year, 3.73 non posi but thats ok, I'm excited to finally dump my old 2.73 10 bolt, and the SM465 is going for a TKO600. We did get the rear springs to bolt up after orientating them in the right position, and then some finagling to bolt them up, it was a hassle my girlfriend has not forgotten lol.

[Mattchu60]

I think I am also going to use a 71-72 12 bolt - I have one spotted at a junkyard already. They should bolt right into place as I understand it. I plan to use the backing plates of my 10 bolt as it has the newer parking brake setup (push in, vs the older bolt on design).

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Mattchu60

I think I am also going to use a 71-72 12 bolt - I have one spotted at a junkyard already. They should bolt right into place as I understand it. I plan to use the backing plates of my 10 bolt as it has the newer parking brake setup (push in, vs the older bolt on design).

They will & they are the same length. The earlier T/A 12bolts (OE 6-lugs) are slightly narrower for those wanting a deeper dish on their wheels.

[bluex]

Like Scoti said it will work, I have a 71/72 axle in mine. I reused the stock brakes from my 78 axle as it had the large drum setup since it is/was a heavy half. I also converted my parking brake cables over to the later model style that runs them down the outside of the frame on the Dr side instead of up the middle.