5 lug bolt circle suggestions? Which one and why?

[Jackson's Dad 64 C10]

I searched, but didn't really come up with much, so apologies if I missed a thread somewhere...

We are in the very early stages of building a '64 fleetside for my son, and trying to plan various parts of the build. I'm planning to do a bolt in IFS (undecided which vendor, there are several good options). I'm also planning a 5 lug conversion along with it. There are several bolt circle options available (5 on 5, 5 on 4.72, 5 on 4.5), and obviously the rear end will need to match (still up in the air on the 12 bolt that is in it vs. a 9 inch). Is there a particular bolt circle that is preferred? I don't know if one has better wheel selection, if there are any strength considerations, etc. So I'll put it to the experts... Which one should I select, and why? Thanks in advance!

-Chris

[PGSigns]

So what are the overall goals for the truck. It has a widely supported IFS in it right now that you can get anything you want for. I build my trucks to drive everyday and try to build with the ability to fix it with locally available off the shelf parts. An example is my 66, everything in the front is out of a 78 C10 using the original front cross member. Used the power steering and all the disk brake hardware with brackets available from this forum and rotors from Summit Racing. Rear is the stock 12 bolt with the big brakes from a mid 70's K10. So this truck is 6 lug and I run steel smoothy wheels. My 65 suburban will have the same setup in the front but going 4 wheel disc and I want 17" wheels and they are available in 5on5 so going to use all stock stuff in the front from the 73 to 87 trucks and I have a 12 bolt from a 72 to go in it. So the plan for the truck build can influence the wheel, tire and bolt pattern choice.
Jimmy

[Jackson's Dad 64 C10]

Great points, Jimmy. The truck is going to be a street driven truck, that I’m building for/with my son for him to drive (likely as his daily). He turns 10 next week, so I’ve got the time for a slower build pace. The goal is to have a well mannered street truck, with the character of a classic. To that end, I am doing an IFS for updated suspension geometry, for power rack and pinion and disc brakes, and improved clearance with a new crossmember (all for drivability - I have had several classics with drum brakes and the old center link style steering, and know how they drive - don’t want to put a new driver in that situation). I think that the biggest goal with the 5 lug conversion is wheel selection. Most of the IFS kits do convert to 5 lug with disc brakes. I am a big fan of being able to use off the shelf parts, so there won’t be an exotic big brake setup, or special one-off parts used. I can see the use of the truck evolving down the line, so I want to try and build in some flexibility, if he decides to auto cross it, or do something slightly more than street drive it.

[PGSigns]

You will be surprised how well they drive and handle with whats under it. Here is what is under my 66. Front is 73 to 87 complete front less the cross member rebuilt with all Moog parts, the power steering from the donor truck, 2 1/2" drop spindles for the 73 and up and 2 inch springs. I have done the caster mod and running about 4 1/2 degrees in it. Rear is stock trailing arms with new front bushings, 5" springs and 1 1/14" blocks, shock re-locators and the long track bar that mounts to the trailing arm. Shock are the Belltech street performance all round. Gas tank moved out of the cab and to the back. The truck is well mannered, easy to drive and will stop as well as you could ask for. I have been driving these trucks for more than 40 years and before you jump in and make a bunch of changes get the old girl up and running and do some basic bolt on upgrades and get to know each other. You may have a new love in your life. I am pushing 60,000 miles on this truck since I put it together.
Jimmy

[BR3W CITY]

My .02 (keeping in mind I dont know 100% what is offered for IFS from all the vendors);

If your looking at a 9" rear, than an MII based front would typically keep the Ford pattern for wheels. IMO it is easier to change the pattern on the rear vs the front, since you can always get custom/redrilled axles.

If your looking at staying with a 12bolt, I'd agree with PGSigns and say that the 70-80's 5x5 is the easiest all around in terms of donor parts and putting something together.

The only thing I'll say for 5x4.75 is that you'll find a much larger selection of wheels for a bit cheaper, since it was the standard for GM for so many years. 5x5 can be a touch trickier to find certain wheel styles, as some manufacturers don't do full line 5x5 wheels, or limit the styles they offer it on.

[Jackson's Dad 64 C10]

Both of you make some great points. My approach to this truck is very different than it was on any other classic that I've owned, primarily because the intent from the moment I saw it was for it to be my son's daily. Every decision on this one is going to be made from a safety and drivability perspective. If it were destined to be an occasional driver, mainly for me, then I'd probably just get it going and upgrade from there. I guess I need to figure out which way I'm going with the rear end, then make a decision on the front based on that.
Thanks for the input from both of you!

[doug_p]

I'm planning to go 5x4.75 primarily due to the fact I plan to run large GM brakes (Vette) and those rotors are 5x4.75. I will make the rear axles work. I want modern stopping power up front, though I do plan to mod mine, likely more than you may want to for your son . . . enjoy the build =)

[PGSigns]

Rear brakes are driven by the rear end. Can you get the stuff to bolt what you want to the housing and have the ebrake and everything else function. The can you get the correct brake to match the rear for the front. There are brake companys out there that make systems that are better candidates and offer front and rear systems. What works on a vette may be a poor choice for a truck. Weight and weight split have a part in the braking system design. These trucks have a poor weight split and an aggressive rear brake is not fun when you have to get on em. You can only dial down the bias so much and have good control of the brakes.
Jimmy

[93Polo]

Originally Posted by doug_p

I'm planning to go 5x4.75 primarily due to the fact I plan to run large GM brakes (Vette) and those rotors are 5x4.75. I will make the rear axles work. I want modern stopping power up front, though I do plan to mod mine, likely more than you may want to for your son . . . enjoy the build =)

Being a C4/C5 Corvette guy and having a set of C5 brakes and 3 piece wheels sitting around from a past project, I am leaning towards 5x4.75. I also like that I am open to C5/C6 discs without redrilling rotors. The question for me is how to get 5x4.75 on the rear and it maybe to do a 9" or weld 9" axle ends on the 12bolt to allow for a Kore3 GM rear disc conversion.

Having been in the late model GM world (4th Gen Fbody before the Corvette), it was always annoying to see 5x4.5 wheels especially 3 piece wheels (Fikse, HRE etc) go for less money as Ford and many imports are on 5x4.5.

If you are happy with stock truck brakes and can find the wheels you want 5x5 maybe the easiest option.

While we're on the topic of weight and brake bias, Any thoughts on C5 2 piston brakes up front and LS Fbody rear brakes?

[Tork?]

Keep in mind 5x4.72 is 5x120 which is very common but it's not the same as the common GM 5x4.75.

[PGSigns]

Price of wheels is one thing and yes some are cheaper and readily available but are they available in the offset and back spacing needed to put them under one of these trucks. Building a 9" to save money on brakes just does not seem like a way to save money. The Corvette wheels have close to 7" of back spacing and that is a problem on it own in the front needing close to a 2" or 2 1/2" spacer to get the wheel center where it needs to be.
Jimmy

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by 93Polo

The question for me is how to get 5x4.75 on the rear and it maybe to do a 9" or weld 9" axle ends on the 12bolt to allow for a Kore3 GM rear disc conversion.


If you are happy with stock truck brakes and can find the wheels you want 5x5 maybe the easiest option.

You'd have to see what the difference in overall width is, then compensate that to fit the change in width from the rear disc conversion. Most brake conversions change the track width by at least a small amount due to the bracketry. At that point you'd be better off doing a disc brake setup meant for the 9" at whatever track width you need, then get axles and rotors stubbed/drilled for your bolt pattern. No reason to do a conversion-on-top-of-conversion.

Also, no reason you have to keep stock truck brakes for 5x5. See all of CaptainFabs rear disc conversion options.

[93Polo]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

You'd have to see what the difference in overall width is, then compensate that to fit the change in width from the rear disc conversion. Most brake conversions change the track width by at least a small amount due to the bracketry. At that point you'd be better off doing a disc brake setup meant for the 9" at whatever track width you need, then get axles and rotors stubbed/drilled for your bolt pattern. No reason to do a conversion-on-top-of-conversion.

Also, no reason you have to keep stock truck brakes for 5x5. See all of CaptainFabs rear disc conversion options.

Agreed you don't have to keep 5x5 but if you can find the wheels you want it maybe less work.

I am not concerned about the track width as I will re barrel 3 piece wheels.

My concern is front to rear proportioning with a ~13" rotor 2 piston PBR up front. Will a C5 rear or LS1 fbody rear setup over power the rear?