12-19-2018, 03:14 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: durham nc
Posts: 124
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z bar 1969
Well... here goes another dumb question. I intended to do an engine swap with a 350 I just built and it took 6 months... and I cannot remember 'exactly' how the zbar, clutch fork, clutch, etc. all fit back together. Does anyone know of a good video, or pictures I could reference....? A lesson to all- photograph everything with fine detail...
I knew I was in trouble when my buddy (the experienced one) asked me what the bent rod sticking out of the firewall was for (pretty sure it fits into the clutch pedal, and then to the z bar). Thanks again, Scott |
12-19-2018, 05:16 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Tucson, AZ USA
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Re: z bar 1969
The Upper Clutch Rod (6) [''the bent thing'' on a V8] connects to the Clutch Lever under the dash and goes to the top ''Ear'' of the Z-Bar. This ear is outboard. Z-Bar has a socket end which goes on a big Ball Stud (8) attached to the drivers side of the engine block. Z-Bar's other end is a 3/8'' slotted stud (9) that slips into a notch in a bracket rivetted onto the LH Frame. A special rectangular, bent, slotted washer (13) goes on the end of the 3/8 stud, with a 3/8 star washer (14) and secures with a 3/8 nut ( 15). The special washer is L-shaped in profile. This keeps the outboard end of the Z-Bar from 'walking' out of position.
From the Clutch Fork, the Lower Clutch Push Rod (2) slips into the Fork using a pivot nut (3). [Weird triangular-ended thingie with a hole in the middle.] Other end of Lower Rod runs thru a pivot (1) on the lower ear of the Z-Bar. I use two - 3/8 Fine nuts (4 ) --doublenutted-- as a stop on the Lower Rod. Once thru the pivot, I secure it with another 3/8 fine nut, giving about 1/4'' - 3/8'' play. Attach the Clutch Return Spring from the end of the Clutch Fork to a hole in the frame, and you're done. I don't remember how good the parts explosion is in the LMC catalog, but it could help. Notes: When turning a nut on the Lower Clutch Push Rod, I grab the rod with vice-grips to keep it from turning also. All the fasteners are 9/16'' IIRC. The factory used a kind of spring pin clip (7) to make the thru ends of the rods secure on the Z-Bar. They sorta looked like an "@" sign. Couldn't find any at O'Reilly's yesterday. A washer and a cotter pin will suffice. Just pulled this job off on my '71 GMC Jimmy after a header transplant. Total PIA. Drivers side headers went on, then off, then on. Had to heat and smack a clearance ding on #7 tube to set the Z-Bar in place. Hope this helps. EDIT: With Grumpy's attachment of the LMC parts explosion, I will use the LMC p/ns in brackets for illustration purposes.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 12-21-2018 at 02:25 AM. Reason: More info |
12-19-2018, 05:43 PM | #3 |
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Location: Gods country East,Tn
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Re: z bar 1969
Maybe this will help ? LMC parts catalog
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1967 Factory short bed - Old school '71 - 350 / 4bolt / 487 heads / Edelbrock C3BX Muncie M-22 4 speed / Hurst Comp plus Factory 12 bolt posi 3.73 / 255-70-15 Smoothed firewall / Factory cowl induction Power disc brakes / power steering / 3.5-5" drop |
12-19-2018, 06:27 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Tucson, AZ USA
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Re: z bar 1969
Thanks, Grumpy. It's etched like a StarWars hologram in my brain -- usually from an on-your-back-bottom aspect. I think I got all the big pieces right.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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