Which camshaft?

[72kool]

After some more planning, what I need for my truck to be a daily driver is eating a small budget quickly. I'm putting the vortec heads to the side for now. Honestly will probably sell them and go with better heads in the future. For now I am pulling the engine out, Paint, new gaskets, new external wear parts ( water and fuel pumps,belts, one wire alternator, etc.)
While it's out I'm going to change cams because it's easy to do now. What is the best cam for torque with stock engine? It is a 1972 350 rated at 175 hp from factory. Probably pushing 140 now haha.
The ngine build plan for now and the future is strictly torque. Not milage ( that word never applied to these bricks) and not hp. It is a workhorse and torque wins over hp.
I am unable to confirm the head numbers til I pull it and deep clean the engine. I would like to have parts in hand before that point. What is your experience? Any go to camshaft for high torque in a stock engine? I plan on getting the cam lifters in a kit so as to match, and I'm upgrading to double roller timing chain. I do have HEI ignition already. I will also be going dual exhaust at this time also. Fuel is supplied by a well built factory quadrajet and it has no plans on leaving anytime soon. I just like it too much. Also if there are any suggestions for a better spring to compliment the cam, I am open to suggestions as long as it fits the budget.

You guys have been great help with all my questions. Thanks once again

[Mike C]

This is the old standby cam for a small chevy. This is the same grind Edelbrock sells for their Performer intake. It should be fine with stock springs. Cam & Lifters less than $100.

https://www.competitionproducts.com/.../#.XFpRMFxKjIU

[weim55]

If you were going to have the engine apart for a complete reseal, while you have the intake off, remove each a lifter one at a time and check the lifter base for condition-wear. Make sure and reinstall the lifter in the same hole as you check each one. If all 16 pass in good condition and you had no valvetrain noise before disassembling I wouldn't change the cam, just leave it alone. There's too much risk with junk aftermarket camshafts and lifters + issues with zinclless oils. You can't beat the quality of those original GM components if they are in good condition.

You've mentioned budget-daily driver a couple times, I wouldn't open this can of worms unless it's absolutely necessary. It's not worth the few extra horsepower for the risk. I speak from a lot of experience with this.......

Steve weim55 Colorado

[trac209]

Originally Posted by weim55

If you were going to have the engine apart for a complete reseal, while you have the intake off, remove each a lifter one at a time and check the lifter base for condition-wear. Make sure and reinstall the lifter in the same hole as you check each one. If all 16 pass in good condition and you had no valvetrain noise before disassembling I wouldn't change the cam, just leave it alone. There's too much risk with junk aftermarket camshafts and lifters + issues with zinclless oils. You can't beat the quality of those original GM components if they are in good condition.

You've mentioned budget-daily driver a couple times, I wouldn't open this can of worms unless it's absolutely necessary. It's not worth the few extra horsepower for the risk. I speak from a lot of experience with this.......

Steve weim55 Colorado

Idk about today’s cams being any worse than one gm used. If a cam goes flat it’s 95 percent of the time it wasn’t broken in properly. I have only ever seen one cam go flat and the guy who’s engine it happened in never even broke it in and even then it was just one lobe that went. For a few bucks you can have a cam treated to be more durable for break in. If you use proper break in oil and the engine fires up quickly and up to 2000 rpm for 25 min or so the cam should be just fine. In fact I’ve never even added a zinc additive or special oils once the cam is broken in. Just good oil change intervals and you can buy a zinc additive for extra insurance easily enough.

[BROWN 70]

hi, 72kool. I,ve had the same cam mentioned above. 204 214 420 442 on a 112. one 350 255hp 9.0 comp. and another 350 crate with 8.0 comp. that cam works great in both. hope this helps, BROWN 70

[weim55]

Originally Posted by trac209

Idk about today’s cams being any worse than one gm used. If a cam goes flat it’s 95 percent of the time it wasn’t broken in properly. I have only ever seen one cam go flat and the guy who’s engine it happened in never even broke it in and even then it was just one lobe that went. For a few bucks you can have a cam treated to be more durable for break in. If you use proper break in oil and the engine fires up quickly and up to 2000 rpm for 25 min or so the cam should be just fine. In fact I’ve never even added a zinc additive or special oils once the cam is broken in. Just good oil change intervals and you can buy a zinc additive for extra insurance easily enough.

You are correct on all counts. In the old days I used these breakin procedures and never had a single issue on any flat tappet motor for 20 years of building engines. In the last 10 years i've lost close to 10 camshafts using a perfect break in procedure, proper cam prelube and proper oil with correct pressure-zinc additives. The issue is garbage after market camshaft and lifters.

I agree with you on a typical flat tappet engine that has a good cam with proper break-in the zinc additives aren't all that necessary on a typical old mid high mileage V8. The valve springs are so weak with so little seat pressure even today's motor oil's do the job just fine. I've had plenty of customers that have run the newer oil's unknowingly for years with no issues. I won't run any flat tappet engine without a proper zinc oil but that's me.

Steve weim55 Colorado

[weim55]

Originally Posted by 72kool

After some more planning, what I need for my truck to be a daily driver is eating a small budget quickly. I'm putting the vortec heads to the side for now. Honestly will probably sell them and go with better heads in the future. For now I am pulling the engine out, Paint, new gaskets, new external wear parts ( water and fuel pumps,belts, one wire alternator, etc.)
While it's out I'm going to change cams because it's easy to do now. What is the best cam for torque with stock engine? It is a 1972 350 rated at 175 hp from factory. Probably pushing 140 now haha.
The ngine build plan for now and the future is strictly torque. Not milage ( that word never applied to these bricks) and not hp. It is a workhorse and torque wins over hp.
I am unable to confirm the head numbers til I pull it and deep clean the engine. I would like to have parts in hand before that point. What is your experience? Any go to camshaft for high torque in a stock engine? I plan on getting the cam lifters in a kit so as to match, and I'm upgrading to double roller timing chain. I do have HEI ignition already. I will also be going dual exhaust at this time also. Fuel is supplied by a well built factory quadrajet and it has no plans on leaving anytime soon. I just like it too much. Also if there are any suggestions for a better spring to compliment the cam, I am open to suggestions as long as it fits the budget.

You guys have been great help with all my questions. Thanks once again

The torque increase you are looking for is in those Vortec heads. There isn't a better cylinder head for the $$ for your application. The torque power increase from the camshaft really isn't worth the effort and money. I thought for the future would be a swap for a complete L31 engine. Roller cam and those efficient cylinder heads. A great low-cost package. The only downsides purchase a correct intake manifold and add an electric fuel pump.

Steve weim55 Colorado

[67 chevelle]

Originally Posted by weim55

The torque increase you are looking for is in those Vortec heads. There isn't a better cylinder head for the $$ for your application. The torque power increase from the camshaft really isn't worth the effort and money. I thought for the future would be a swap for a complete L31 engine. Roller cam and those efficient cylinder heads. A great low-cost package. The only downsides purchase a correct intake manifold and add an electric fuel pump.

Steve weim55 Colorado

Totally agree ,and the cam mentioned is not bad

[demian5]

Im on the fence about a cam as well. I want something that will idle with a decent beat, work with a stock converter and pull hard to 4500. I have 202 aluminum heads, headers, and a 355 bottom end.

[trac209]

Originally Posted by demian5

Im on the fence about a cam as well. I want something that will idle with a decent beat, work with a stock converter and pull hard to 4500. I have 202 aluminum heads, headers, and a 355 bottom end.

With a stock converter your kind of limited on a rumble style cam. I had a Sbc that was similar to what your building and I used a cam that was basically this.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...1102/overview/

The engine had decent pull even with the 2.73 the truck had. It didn’t sound crazy but still had a nice sound from what I recall.

[clay68c10]

Comp 268 High Energy. Works well with a stock stall but you will feel a difference. Fun to drive and pulls, but it isn't hard to live with at all.