55.2-59 cadillac front suspension

[jaws61]

Hi
I"m looking at buy a 55-59 chevy truck, but its got a 70 cadillac front suspension subframe on the front and cadillac rear end all sitting on air bags, I've never read or heard of anyone using a cadillac? any insight or issues with this let me know..
thanks

[mr48chev]

Having worked on those front ends a lot back years ago I can't see why anyone with good sense would stick one under a truck.

Like a lot of bad ideas I'd think that came about because someone was given a 70 Cad for free and used it.

On the other hand if it is a complete driver that the price is right on and it is safe to drive with the welded on subframe it might be fun to drive.

If you can get it right (don't pay any premium for the subframe and rear end) and it runs, drives and has a clear title it might be something to have fun with that you could decide to build a new chassis for later. Study how the work was done and decide if was done safely and not scabbed together. This the time to take your nitpicky buddy along and use his eyes to spot things you migh have missed.

[jaws61]

Thanks mr48chev
That is a huge help for me and after reading that im going to pass for sure on the truck, the body got to much cancer as well and hes charging a good money for the truck because the chassis work... So ill just keep on the search of a better one but thanks again!

[mr48chev]

If you are looking at TF trucks hunt for the best sheet metal you can find. Engines are engines and I'd rather buy a nice body and stock frame with no engine or trans than pay a premium for something that is an unknown quantity.

Maybe if it was on a 77/84 Cad Deville chassis it wouldn't be that bad but the 70 is a pain in the butt to work on when it is stock. I've still got the tool to adjust the camber by turning the ball joint stud though.

[dsraven]

like mr48 says, buy the best body you can find. the driveline is the easy part and probably the part you would want to change anyway. a good solid body on a stock frame is an awesome start. a bigger truck may have a really good can but the front sheet metal is different. still, lots of guys go that route nd change the frame, front sheet metal etc. if you get something with a good body but no driveline any changes would be done by you for what you want, not something with unknown quality installed who knows when with who knows what inside.
set a budget and then look into what you can afford inside that perimeter. then once you find something get a list going on what it needs to get it like you want. price the parts out and look at the budget again. once you have set a build type and style stick with it or else the whole ball game changes. it's a slippery slope of "oh, while i'm here I might as well do this" and those little things can change a whole build style. along with that comes a whole new budget. decide what you want, look at what you have available for space, tools, time,money and skills, then go from there. too much work farmed out means the build is gonna be expensive.
55-59 trucks have a habit of collecting laves, dirt etc in the cowl which plugs the drain holes. the cowls fill with water over time and then spill out onto the floor area inside through the floor vents when it rains or melts fast. then that area of the floor, cab mounts, hinge pillars and cowl sections rust out. it may seem like the truck is in pretty good shape except for the door hinges. then you look closer and find the hinge pillars are rusted out and that is the reason the doors sag. the steps and rockers are a big hit as well as the rear cab corners. this one reason why a lot of guys use a cab from a big truck, they don't seem to be in as bad a shape sometimes. the cabs are all the same, pretty well, so the sheet metal crosses over. gmc dash is a bit different and the 58-59 has a longer nose so the frame is a bit longer. anyway, look around for the best sheet metal you can find and look in the problem areas for rust. the eyebrow over the windshield is another soft spot as well as the sheet metal above the rain gutter on the roof. the rear cab mounts can also get rusted through so ensure you go under the truck and look at everything well. who knows what has been done over the years and if it was a farm truck it may have been fixed on the cheap just to keep it going. I have even seen concrete slobbered in around the headlights to hold things together.

[mr48chev]

In all truth don't pay a premium for anything that has been added on one of these trucks that you don't intend to use nor have a ready market for. The self syled truck flippers around here slap sets of 20's on otherwise stock daily driver trucks hoping that some fool will pay way more for the truck when the bling gets to them. Half the time they have't made a payment to the tire store for the wheels and tires but a guy might get some bargaining power by asking if they will sell it without the wheels you don't want.
On the same note that "rebuilt" engine that was rebuilt 20 years ago and the owner is so proud of really has no extra value for being rebuilt 20 years ago. Nice if you plan to use it but it is still a 20 year from fresh engine.

[jaws61]

Thanks guys for all the pointers and places to look out for..
The truck sold which im happy i didnt buy it and someone else headache. Back to the search of some solid cabs and parts, I"m thinking of doing a chopping block frame or a acme... so i'll keep saving my pennies...

[dsraven]

Check out Canadian hotrods, they have a nice frame with. Corvette underpinning. I have e personally seen a fresh one. Well set up a d USD is good now compared with CAD.