Latest project: LS1 70 swb stepside

[WIDESIDE72]

Started with this

[WIDESIDE72]

Progress so far

[notsolo]

Frame cleaned up nice, LS swap awesome, ET mags will look great hope you have all four...

[WIDESIDE72]

Originally Posted by notsolo

Frame cleaned up nice, LS swap awesome, ET mags will look great hope you have all four...

Funny thing on the frame. The "restoration" consisted of several degreasing/ power washer sessions, followed by removal of large scale removal with a wire wheel, then generous application of rust converter,https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Hig...ef_=ast_slp_dp

then Rustoleum gloss black https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...l?cm_vc=-10005

with hardener from tractor supply https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...t?cm_vc=-10005

added, applied with a brush https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...h?cm_vc=-10005...

This is going to be a daily driver type truck. That is why I am going with the LS engine (that and it was free when my brother passed away) as opposed to the 400BBC that is in the truck now. I find it comical that so many people seem to think that they need to sand blast and powdercoat their frames, all the time, every time. Granted, I am not building a show truck, and it is going to be driven in central Texas, but I just don't see it. TO each his own. I actually took it to a friend of my dad's to be sand blasted and epoxy painted and he talked me into the rust converter/ Rustoleum idea.

As for the mags, I do in fact have all four. I picked them up for $100 years ago. 15x8.5", non uni lug. The downside is one is bent. They are E.T.'s. I picked up another pair of 15x8.5", also non unilug, but the are a different brand (US MAG?) If I ever get that far, I plan to see if I can get the matching E.T. straightened, but I can live with the ever so slight mismatch if necessary. (either that or swap to a set of 10" in back, if I can find them. (This truck is going to have a late 70's/ early 80's "vibe", header mufflers, barefoot gas pedal to go with the slot mags, like a lot of the trucks I recall growing up. Until I open the hood and everyone expecting to see the usual sbc or maybe a bbc will be surprised!)

[MDPotter]

That's a cool truck to start with. I like that color. You will love the LS!

Are you giving it a paint job or just leaving the patina?

I would suggest starting a build thread too so we can all follow along.

[WIDESIDE72]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

That's a cool truck to start with. I like that color. You will love the LS!

Are you giving it a paint job or just leaving the patina?

I would suggest starting a build thread too so we can all follow along.

It will be "patina". I bought the truck wrecked, and had a grill and bumper off a 71 I parted out. The hood is off another truck I parted out (69?) and was gold under the primer. I have since sanded the primer off and applied rust converter to the place that was bare metal. The stepside bed I have is orange (!). SO it could be called "patches". I may paint it someday...

[WIDESIDE72]

Here in central Texas, it’s finally cool enough to work outside in the afternoon, so when i got home today, i did a test fit on the exhaust manifolds. I currently have a pair of 73+ frame stands and motor mounts in place, with corresponding ebay ls adapter brackets. The driver side fit with no problem. The passenger side is pretty close to the frame stand. I think it will be ok for the time being, but i plan to eventually install full length “swap” headers, which will eliminate the problem. I also have a pair of 72 big block frame stands and motor mounts in the barn. I wonder if they will give more clearance.

[WIDESIDE72]

In looking over my photos, I just realized that since i dont have the rear of the frame stand bolted down yet, i may be able to create more clearance before i drill the hole for the rear mounting hole. Maybe tomorrow!

[WIDESIDE72]

I recently figured out that the suburban tank I planned to use is too big. It won't fit in between the cross members. I used a 72 blazer gas tank in the truck in my profile pic, but it was carbed. The 72 blazer tank is rectangular when viewed from above, and the suburban tank I have is square. It might work in a lwb, but mine is a swb. I contemplated using a blazer tank again, but IIRC, the newer sending unit needed for the factory style electric fuel pump wont't fit in the blazer tank (larger diameter). i have thread specifically regarding the fuel system In the LSX forum. Their universal tank and pump module has been recommended.

https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...rod/prd173.htm

https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm?p...d=-1&mode=prod

Does anyone have experience with either of these or other recommendations for something cheaper than a boyd’s welding tank ?

[notsolo]

Quite a few LS swaps with and plenty of help here if you need it, I used Hammerite on my 71, still didn't hold up to spilled trans fluid from PS pump leak.

[cebra]

88-91 Jeep Wrangler Tank
92-93 S10 Sender
EP381 Fuel Pump

Doubt you can go any cheaper than that route. Check out my build thread (someone found this combo way before me). The tank is baffled too, no way would I run a Blazer tank on a EFI setup and have to worry about running it low.

[WIDESIDE72]

Originally Posted by cebra

88-91 Jeep Wrangler Tank
92-93 S10 Sender
EP381 Fuel Pump

Doubt you can go any cheaper than that route. Check out my build thread (someone found this combo way before me). The tank is baffled too, no way would I run a Blazer tank on a EFI setup and have to worry about running it low.

No baffle! Another strike against the blazer tank! Did you drill a hole in the jeep tank for a top fill? I dont see the existing jeep side fill clearing the frame.

[WIDESIDE72]

Cebra, I checked out your build thread. My truck is a stepside so it will take some figuring to make the stock jeep tank fill work.

[WIDESIDE72]

Not much progress today. The top holes in the driver side 73+ frame stands both lined up. I had to drill one hole on the passenger side. I haven't decided if i will go to the trouble of removing the engine to drill the bottom frame stand mounting holes or just put a couple of tack welds on them. In lining up the passenger side stand in order to drill the hole, i did get adequate exhaust manifold clearance. With this accomplishment, i can keep the f body manifolds. I found some egr block off plates and the exhaust pipe mounting ring/ flanges that correspond with the manifolds inline for $35.

I also worked on converting the stock ls wiring harness to a “stand alone” harness with some help from lt1swap.com website and his videos on youtube. Between last night and today, I have about four hours into it and have all the unneeded wires removed, and a few others relocated. Now its time to hunt for a fuse block!

I plan to list a few parts In the parts forum in order to finance this latest “foray”, in case anyone is interested.