‘18 Denali junk rotors

[projectking]

Dealer says my sub 20k mile brake problem isn’t covered under warranty...not sure I’ll buy a new GM again.

At least 3/16” of pad left on the outer one

[Warrens69GMC]

ok. I've seen a lot of 2003 up Trucks and SUV replacing them at 20-30k

[projectking]

Seriously? I’ve replaced them every 3 years for awhile now and never done brakes on one yet.

[ray_mcavoy]

Does your area use a lot of de-icing salt on the roads in the winter?

They do around here, and as a result I have seen rotors rusted like that on many different vehicles regardless of make, model, or mileage.

[projectking]

Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy

Does your area use a lot of de-icing salt on the roads in the winter?

They do around here, and as a result I have seen rotors rusted like that on many different vehicles regardless of make, model, or mileage.

I’m sure they do. Pretty hard to believe only the backside was effected, no?

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by projectking

I’m sure they do. Pretty hard to believe only the backside was effected, no?

Yeah, the backside of the rotors seems to be where I see that type of damage the most. And it seems to be a little more common on rear rotors than on the front.

I'm not sure exactly why, but I'm guessing that the road salt splash tends to accumulate more on the backside of the rotors (and more so on the rear than the front). While the front side of the rotor is (depending on wheel design) usually a bit more exposed to get rinsed off when the vehicle is washed or driven in the rain.

[sweetk30]

the last pic with the pad in hand you can see the tab / ear hs been in tight and i would bet the o.p. had to pry it out of the bracket . most of the time this is the case but not always .

also its NOT just gm with the problem .

the bracket the pads sit in gets rusted up and binds up the pads in the bracket so they cant float and move the way they need to . also lots of brake pads these days need the extra flashing filed / ground / removed to make sure the pads float .

i clean the bracket down to bare metal in a blast cabinet or small grinder wheel or bit . then new shim unit installed . next test fit the new pads and make them fit with a little slop in the bracket so they float good and ave room before the rust builds up and locks them in again .

once this is done i remove the pads / shim unit and coat the surfaces in copper anti-seize . then shim back on and a little copper anti-seize and pads .

once the rotors are rusted this way there junk / wont clean up with new pads or even on a rotor resurface machine . i ran one for almost 15 years i tried a few times and by the time you get a good surface your so far under min spec the rotor is junk . so just get new .

before the rotor goes on the wheel hub or axle flange make sure the surface is clean and not rusted bad . then a coat of anti-seize to let the rotor float and not rust up on to the hub center . the rotor needs to float or it will warp .

all this work is NOT covered under you std auto shop brake job . they just hang them and bang them out .

people wounder why i take over 1 hr to do a set of pads / rotors on 1 axle . but i dont have come back jobs and my jobs last longer before they need redone again .

hope this info helps and good luck . 41 years of living and working in the rust belt of the north east here .

[projectking]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

the last pic with the pad in hand you can see the tab / ear hs been in tight and i would bet the o.p. had to pry it out of the bracket . most of the time this is the case but not always .

also its NOT just gm with the problem .

the bracket the pads sit in gets rusted up and binds up the pads in the bracket so they cant float and move the way they need to . also lots of brake pads these days need the extra flashing filed / ground / removed to make sure the pads float .

i clean the bracket down to bare metal in a blast cabinet or small grinder wheel or bit . then new shim unit installed . next test fit the new pads and make them fit with a little slop in the bracket so they float good and ave room before the rust builds up and locks them in again .

once this is done i remove the pads / shim unit and coat the surfaces in copper anti-seize . then shim back on and a little copper anti-seize and pads .

once the rotors are rusted this way there junk / wont clean up with new pads or even on a rotor resurface machine . i ran one for almost 15 years i tried a few times and by the time you get a good surface your so far under min spec the rotor is junk . so just get new .

before the rotor goes on the wheel hub or axle flange make sure the surface is clean and not rusted bad . then a coat of anti-seize to let the rotor float and not rust up on to the hub center . the rotor needs to float or it will warp .

all this work is NOT covered under you std auto shop brake job . they just hang them and bang them out .

people wounder why i take over 1 hr to do a set of pads / rotors on 1 axle . but i dont have come back jobs and my jobs last longer before they need redone again .

hope this info helps and good luck . 41 years of living and working in the rust belt of the north east here .

Thanks for the replies guys!

I did have to pry it out, thought it was odd it was so tight. What pissed me off was the guy telling me it was my problem! I have a buddy with a connection to another dealer that says it should be covered under the warranty, if they do the job or I’m on the hook I will definitely take your advice and make sure the pads are floating.

Anyone in the Chicagoland area should be sure to avoid Rizza GMC

[sweetk30]

no prob on the help .

way to many years dealing with rust problems . you learn quick or pay for the headache later .