Door Weatherstrip

[GMCGrim]

Since the restoration of my truck the doors have been hard to close. The drivers side shuts better than the passenger side but still i"m not happy. I have searched the forum and found that 86-96 Dakota and 2007 Honda Civic coupe will fit our trucks. Well I just looked at Rock Auto and you can buy brand new 96 Dakota weatherstrip for $44.79 for both doors. I think that will be the route I will go and hopefully I won't have to slam my doors.

[1968aj]

I have used the original weatherstrip the new push on style and the Dakota style. Every time the doors were hard to close with all of them.Maybe its me or the doors have to be adjusted.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by GMCGrim

Since the restoration of my truck the doors have been hard to close. The drivers side shuts better than the passenger side but still i"m not happy. I have searched the forum and found that 86-96 Dakota and 2007 Honda Civic coupe will fit our trucks. Well I just looked at Rock Auto and you can buy brand new 96 Dakota weatherstrip for $44.79 for both doors. I think that will be the route I will go and hopefully I won't have to slam my doors.

Try moving the striker plate out a bit. Be sure and mark around it with a fine felt tip marker first so you can tell how far you have moved it. Only go about 1/16" at a time and don't let it move up or down, just out. It shouldn't take much if that's the problem.

LockDoc

[Stocker]

They'll get better in time, as the weatherstrip conforms to the shape when the doors are closed. Also the w-strip will be stiffer in colder weather.

[GMCPaul]

If the door latch striker wheel pivot point is worn it results in you having to push the door further in to get them to latch than is required with a good door latch. This is because as you close the door the latch striker wheel gets pushed outward due to play from being worn resulting in having to compress door seals further than should be required due to the play involved. So if they have a 1/4" in play in latch you have to compress door seal 1/4" further or more to get door to latch. The same is true if you have worn door hinges. You should also check pinch weld flange that the door weatherstrip attaches to, if it's pushed outward anywhere you can bend the pinch weld flange in slightly to adjust it outward which will result in easier to close doors and this adjustment of flange is not noticeable.
Paul Jr @ GMCPauls

[2014sierraAT]

The 2007 Honda seals fit perfect. I believe they were around 40 bucks a side.

[Andy4639]

I just went through this on my 68 step. I used the newer push on door seals. They seal off the door better than the old ones do. I had to replace both door latches to get them to operate correctly. I wasted hours try to adjust the drivers door and finally gave in and ordered the new latch. It shut and locked with the key first time.
I ended up rebuilding both doors, new regulators,seals, door handles everything.

[68bbc/20]

I've bought a lot of parts for a 68 camaro 72 Chevelle, and my 71 c/10 from resto-world out of Dayton ohio 937-236-5233 door to cab seals are $25.00 a pair. all the parts I've bought from them window regulators, door releases, fenders, quarters, heater cores , etc. have all been very good parts to install and work with and has been better selections and priced better than rock-auto. priced way better than several other specialty companies that I have price checked on. last order I placed the morning of 12-26-19 was on my front porch 12-27-19 with out extra shipping. great guys to deal with!

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by 2014sierraAT

The 2007 Honda seals fit perfect. I believe they were around 40 bucks a side.

I’ve used these on three different trucks now and they are the best fit out there. I’ve tried them all over the years, Dodge Dakota, the new press on seals that vendors carry, etc and the Honda Civic seals are hands down the best, no adjustments were needed, doors shut nice and easy as original.