Driveshaft help

[kcstreetracer]

I have a lwb 68 c10. I had the motor and transmission out, now putting it back in and the driveshaft will not go back on the rear end. Slip yoke is bottomed out on transmission and its lacking a inch or so to go back on the rear end. The motor mounts are bolted in and good. I've tried prying, rotating rear end, jacking up on tail shaft and can not get it back on. Am I missing something? Can I just get a shorter slip yoke? I feel if I do get it back on it may push in on transmission to much if it flexes

[projectking]

V8 installed one the front or rear holes?

[projectking]

Which transmission do you have?

[kcstreetracer]

Th350.

I believe there was only 1 set of holes. I'm looking at them and dont see different holes

[kcstreetracer]

When I pulled the motor I never removed the mounts from the block.

[AussieinNC]

I am going to assume you have a 2 piece shaft,,,,

There is a second set of slip splines on the rear shaft adjacent to the center bearing...make sure those splines will allow to second yolk to fully bottom out next to the center bearing. I have seen people grease the splines then try to push the yolk in...a pressure lock occurs preventing the slip yolk from seating fully.

Its always good practice IMHO, to loosen the center bearing carrier bolts and allow the carrier to centralize with the shaft in place...this will also allow the shaft to enter the diff flanges easily.

If this is a single piece shaft, jack the chassis up behind the rear end and the diff will drop and increase the available space that should allow the shaft to be installed.

[projectking]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

I am going to assume you have a 2 piece shaft,,,,

There is a second set of slip splines on the rear shaft adjacent to the center bearing...make sure those splines will allow to second yolk to fully bottom out next to the center bearing. I have seen people grease the splines then try to push the yolk in...a pressure lock occurs preventing the slip yolk from seating fully.

Its always good practice IMHO, to loosen the center bearing carrier bolts and allow the carrier to centralize with the shaft in place...this will also allow the shaft to enter the diff flanges easily.

If this is a single piece shaft, jack the chassis up behind the rear end and the diff will drop and increase the available space that should allow the shaft to be installed.

Great advice! OP I’d still make sure you’re in the right engine stand holes on the frame, I’ll post up a pic

[projectking]

Here you go

[projectking]

BTW this is a 327/T350

[kcstreetracer]

It's a one piece driveshaft. I got it to go jacking up the rear of the frame and some serious prying back on the rear end. This concerns me, I dont want to ruin the tranny pump.

I'm going to post up pics of my motor mounts in a bit, I believe one may be off but I'm not positive.

Thank you for the help and insight fellas.

[projectking]

Originally Posted by kcstreetracer

It's a one piece driveshaft. I got it to go jacking up the rear of the frame and some serious prying back on the rear end. This concerns me, I dont want to ruin the tranny pump.

I'm going to post up pics of my motor mounts in a bit, I believe one may be off but I'm not positive.

Thank you for the help and insight fellas.

Anytime, the mounts are in the same location side to side except for the 292 mounts

[AussieinNC]

There is no rear pump in a TH350.....

It looks like the one piece shaft may be too long....

Is the truck lowered from standard?

Even a 2" drop will cause driveshaft issues especially with a one piece shaft....

Shafts should be measured from center of uni joint hole to center of uni joint hole with the trans yoke pulled out an inch and the truck at usual ride height.

Is the shaft the one you had in the truck before you pulled the engine / trans?

[Andy4639]

No Long wheel base trucks came with 1 piece drive shafts. If you have to pry it in your not going to last very long and every time your truck hits a bump it's going to do damage to the transmission and drive shaft. Do not drive it like this.


You need to have the truck on the ground at ride height slide the yoke all the way in then back out 1" then measure from middle of front yoke to the middle of rear yoke.
Checkout the file .