Best brand Radiator for a 383 stroker

[Ventanakaz]

So I got a 383 stroker engine going in, It's from Smeding Performance outta Texas, The 383 that's going into the engine bay is their 383 Extreme 450HP & 460 TQ. I need some help on what brand nowadays will be the best Radiator, All info appreciated, Thanks

[Redneck Rydes]

I have been very happy with Champion rads,I have used 5 of them in my truck,never a complaint

[Ventanakaz]

Originally Posted by Redneck Rydes

I have been very happy with Champion rads,I have used 5 of them in my truck,never a complaint

Thanks for your help, Were the Champion radiators a direct replacement or did you have to do any mods, also how many rows to you go with, My stock one has two rows but I'm thinking that won't do with this engine, I was thinking a four row rad would be better.

[Ventanakaz]

This is going in a 67 C10 Long bed BTW

[atm70chevy]

I have a 383 in my 70 stepside and I used a Frostbite aluminum 3 row radiator. It fit perfect and no cooling issues.

Anthony

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by Redneck Rydes

I have been very happy with Champion rads,I have used 5 of them in my truck,never a complaint

X 2 on the Champions.. I've installed 3 in different cars/trucks over a 20 year span and still keeps on ticking as they say.

Last one was last year in Otis my 70-1 ton, I opted for the twin electric fan 1000hp cooling capacity version, I have no where near that kind of HP but with factory A/C and hot Kalifornia summers I got plenty of cooling.

[Willie Makeit]

a clean stock 4 row will work just fine. and cost a lot less.

[demian5]

My 3 row champion is great but the upper radiator mounts from my old 4-row are a bit floppy.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I would just like to add this since you have a warm 383.

A radiator is only one portion of a ideal system. Before you install it I would seriously consider adding 4 corner cooling to the manifold. This is where you drill into the rear of the manifold, and tap or weld in atleast 6an line to the thermostat area. To which you buy the thermostat adapter so it screws right in.

Just one of the many brands you can choose.
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performa...RoCw4EQAvD_BwE

It helps prevent cooling issues in the form of hot spots. Which is air or steam being trapped in the rear cylinders. Which can cause pinging because the rear cylinders have tendency to run hotter since water, but more importantly air or steam can't get out fast enough sometimes.

I am a big fan of it myself on anything I plan to run hard for extended time, and have even done it to a stock intake manifolds for trucks. So if I worked them I felt a bit more confident when hauling. It kept my 60 over 350 workable, and helped my 525hp 400 sbc keep from over heating when ran hard. Both engines are on the extreme end of DD, and it made quite a difference for me when they likely would of had a issue.

When I have done it either for me or friends. I used a high volume water pump, but that may not be necessary. A stock one is very capable, and it was likely way overkill.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

I would just like to add this since you have a warm 383.

A radiator is only one portion of a ideal system. Before you install it I would seriously consider adding 4 corner cooling to the manifold. This is where you drill into the rear of the manifold, and tap or weld in atleast 6an line to the thermostat area. To which you buy the thermostat adapter so it screws right in.

Just one of the many brands you can choose.
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performa...RoCw4EQAvD_BwE

It helps prevent cooling issues in the form of hot spots. Which is air or steam being trapped in the rear cylinders. Which can cause pinging because the rear cylinders have tendency to run hotter since water, but more importantly air or steam can't get out fast enough sometimes.

I am a big fan of it myself on anything I plan to run hard for extended time, and have even done it to a stock intake manifolds for trucks. So if I worked them I felt a bit more confident when hauling. It kept my 60 over 350 workable, and helped my 525hp 400 sbc keep from over heating when ran hard. Both engines are on the extreme end of DD, and it made quite a difference for me when they likely would of had a issue.

When I have done it either for me or friends. I used a high volume water pump, but that may not be necessary. A stock one is very capable, and it was likely way overkill.

Can you post some pictures of this modification?

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

This thread has good pics about 1/2 way down.

https://gbodyforum.com/threads/best-...p-gauge.59913/

This one uses a T in the middle, and I have never tried it this way.

https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23070

I couldn't find the Car Craft article that convinced me to try it, but I dont have any pics of when I did.

All in all it does not add power, but will allow more even cylinder temps. If your engine is Hot enough. It can make a bigger difference.

[jimijam00]

Best? https://www.dewitts.com/ is Made in the USA by Americans.

[Mike C]

Yup. DeWitts if the question is the BEST. Best value radiator, the Champion appears to be a good product. Used one in my 240Z. Have a big block conversion DeWitts for my 64 Vette with dual fans. Most expensive car part I ever bought that wasn't an engine or transmission. I am inherently frugal and for my application thought the DeWitts the best buy.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

This thread has good pics about 1/2 way down.

https://gbodyforum.com/threads/best-...p-gauge.59913/

This one uses a T in the middle, and I have never tried it this way.

https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23070

I couldn't find the Car Craft article that convinced me to try it, but I dont have any pics of when I did.

All in all it does not add power, but will allow more even cylinder temps. If your engine is Hot enough. It can make a bigger difference.

Thank you sir. Hijack completed, now back to the regularly scheduled program.

[toolboxchev]

Some things to look for:

Aluminum, large 2 row all tig welded no epoxy or glued tanks. Wall thickness is most likely the thing to look for.

4 row, copper and brass. Spendy yet on an older Gen 1 block you will find this is the way to go.

There are tricks with cleaning an older system, copper and brass radiator, all iron block and heads.

Try to get one of the newer aluminum ones clean is a chore, techs always recommend a replacement when maintenance was neglected.