![]() |
![]() |
#1 |
71 DELUX
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Northern CA / Sac
Posts: 1,056
|
2 "how to" questions
OK,
How is the vent window and related hardware removed/replaced in the doors? Must the window and regulator be removed to change them? If so, how? Also...I've never done work on a drive-line before, thus I've never changed a universal joint. When the clips have been popped out, how are they driven out of the holes? Big hammer? Thanks. Jeffrey |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Formerly yellow72custom
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 7,531
|
Can't help on the vent window, but i can on the u-joints...
I drive mine out with a vice and 2 sockets, 1 large and 1 small. I put the yolk in the vice, and put a large socket (bigger than the U-joint cap) one one side of the yolk, and a smaller socket (smaller than the u-joint cap) on the other side of the yolk. Clamping down the vice pushes the U-joint to the other side. Works rather well. The big hammer method also works pretty well, but i have found the vice mehtod to be a bit slower, but there is much less of a chance of whacking your thumb with a hammer ![]()
__________________
'72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride. '70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck. '97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
I need a brake!
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 474
|
Another tip about the U-joints. unbolt it at the back and unbolt the carrier bearing. The whole thing will then slide out of the tranny.
You may have already figured that out, but I laid under my truck struggling with it not realizing I just needed to unbolt the carrier.
__________________
JP MEMBER OF THE DISCS UP FRONT CLUB 1971 Chevy C10 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Blazerless:-(
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Olympia WA
Posts: 1,612
|
I am wondering about the vent window also?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Waterloo, IA
Posts: 1,147
|
I changed out the vent window on my Blazer, and I basically took everything out. You can get the vent window assembly out with the window rolled down, but I don't know how it would be getting it back together.
Directions: Remove the door panel and remove every screw on the inside of the door. It's really not too complicated, but I would do it when you can put it back together in a short period of time (so you remember where all the hardware goes). I've got a disassembled door in my garage if you have specific questions. Hope this helps! Paul
__________________
'72 Chevy K20 - 383/4sp/205 - SOLD after 41 years in the family Next project - K/5 Tahoe (71 Blazer on 99 Tahoe chassis) Build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=789958 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 | |
Resident Curmudgeon
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: NH
Posts: 6,664
|
Quote:
1. Remove inner door handles, armrest, and door panel. 2. Remove the 2 lower screws, and the one upper screw holding the REAR (latch end) glass guide channel in place. 3. Push the loosened rear channel as far back as possible. This will allow the door glass to slide back toward the latch end of the door. This is important because you cannot remove the old wing vent without doing this. 4. Remove 2 lower screws and 3 upper screws holding wing vent in place. If you have a 72 door, also remove the screw that reenforces the area where the wing vent enters. 5. Pull wing vent away from where it sits, them pull up and out. You will want to be careful not to ruin your door 'fuzzies" in the process. The vent has to be twisted 90 degrees as well. To reinstall, reverse the process,
__________________
Currently on or near the homestead: 67 Chevy SWB 2WD stepside 350/3 on tree (Pat's) 67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction) 67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler) 67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC) 68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC) 70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC) 71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor) 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC) 81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler) 82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy) 93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car) 02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk) 2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter ![]() Maybe I need to sell some of this crap ![]() Yet another Bozo with a sawz-all |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Cause the Chicks DIG IT!!
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Beaufort SC
Posts: 509
|
CPNE made it sound to easy. He's got the process right though. When i did mine it was a pain in the neck and i scratched the Sh*# out of my paint in the process. And you're window liner you might want to take that out unless you're really careful, cause when i did mine I tore my brand new one all to heck.
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
user # 2756
![]() Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
|
I've replaced my driver side and did exactly what CPNE said above-real smooth and easy.
__________________
1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Virginia Beach, Va. U.S.A.
Posts: 15,320
|
Good, you can help me put mine back together after I paint the doors.
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
71 DELUX
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Northern CA / Sac
Posts: 1,056
|
Thanks for these answers. Regarding the drive shaft, I have removed it from the truck already...just trying to figure these details out. I'd think that maybe a large C-clamp may work similar to a vice then, eh? The vice I have is too small for this job.
As for the windows...good to know these tricks, which is why I asked. I once had a 68 Mustang and had the guy at the local yard not showed me how to remove the regulator, I'd probably still have window falling down into the door! I will print these out and see how it works! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
My son, my joy.
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 463
|
If you want to save yourself some hassle, take your drive shaft down to a machine shop and have them do it. A c-clamp won't be any good.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The Rubber City
Posts: 5,498
|
get a ujoint press, they are cheap, for the driveshaft...basically a big cclamp. i think you can also rent them if for some reason you wouldn't want to keep it.
__________________
1969 GMC K2500 ![]() 1996 Honda Accord 2007 Kawasaki KLR 650 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
71 DELUX
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Northern CA / Sac
Posts: 1,056
|
reason for u-joint question
I have these longbeds...with the two part shafts. So the one removed from the 70 is rather awkward to move around and store, being so long and flopping about. I don't know if they are worth anything, but regardless if they stay or go, I need to get the two pieces separated.
If I don't have to, I don't want to throw any money at it. Maybe the dude across the street will have a better vice I can use. Thanks! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|