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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: upstate sc
Posts: 2,095
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Soaking parts...who has best product
A few months ago I stumbled across a member that was soaking parts with a powder he had bought on Amazon that bike restoration guys were using and now I can't find the thread. anyone know of this product??
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#2 |
Who Changed This?
![]() Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 10,388
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Re: Soaking parts...who has best product
If you're talking about getting rust off steel parts it was probably molasses. You can add water to it and it works pretty well...and it's CHEAP. You can buy it from an animal feed store, but I think for your purposes that the 25 pound sack would be a lifetime supply.
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~Steven '70 Chevy 3/4T Longhorn CST 402/400/3.56 Custom Camper Simi Valley, CA |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: upstate sc
Posts: 2,095
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Re: Soaking parts...who has best product
It's not molasses...if I recall correctly it was a powder added to water in a plastic tote..was like $13 on amazon
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#4 |
landarts
![]() Join Date: May 2005
Location: Star, Idaho
Posts: 1,358
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Re: Soaking parts...who has best product
It was in my thread called 68 Second Chance, the product is Oaxlic acid. It will strip rust and leave paint and any decals. Bought on Amazon in a 2lb plastic container about $14. I added about 5 or cap fulls to the 35 gallon storage tub from Home depot. It was on page 2 of the 68 Second Chance thread I believe post #38.
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: upstate sc
Posts: 2,095
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Re: Soaking parts...who has best product
Yep that's it..thanks for the info
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#6 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: 2nd left past the stump on a dirt road.
Posts: 2,629
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Re: Soaking parts...who has best product
I tried Evaporust on Wiper Transmission arms. 3 different types of metal and plastic. It only attacked the rust on these parts. Worked good on this application.
Stainless, Copper or Brass, and stamped metal...It all matters. Oxallic Acid is safe to my knowledge on brass and copper. Stainless I have no clue on. |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: South East Ohio
Posts: 644
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Re: Soaking parts...who has best product
There are a variety of acids which work well depending upon what you're trying to accomplish and how much time you're willing to allow the part(s). Phosphoric acid is my preference but I've used bleach also. This transmission case soaked in vinegar for two days. Came out spotless
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#8 | |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 856
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Re: Soaking parts...who has best product
Quote:
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#9 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Fairview Park, Ohio
Posts: 1,031
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Re: Soaking parts...who has best product
Quote:
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#10 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: South East Ohio
Posts: 644
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Re: Soaking parts...who has best product
Quote:
I think many of the rust removers (powder or otherwise) are just acids in various forms. Most will get the job done, some quicker than others. When I use a rust remover or converter, I'll look at the list of active ingredients and then look for that ingredient specifically. I do not know what molasses might contain to get the job done but it might be the elbow grease necessary to remove the molasses that actually does the job. Never tried it. I tend to think a citric acid might work also. Don't know. But I can say the vinegar bath works surprisingly well.. |
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#11 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Simi, CA
Posts: 495
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Re: Soaking parts...who has best product
Check out this video, I love this guys product tests. Krud Kutter looks like the way to go is you want the job done quickly and don't mind spending a littel cash. It seems to work fast, kind of scary fast. Evapo Rust and Krud Kutter seem to work well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-MC_ZEXQbw&vl=en
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Made in America by Americans Last edited by Big Kev-O; 05-19-2020 at 11:35 AM. |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Beebe, AR
Posts: 2,458
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Re: Soaking parts...who has best product
Most rust removers are an acid of some sort, either organic or inorganic. I've used Evaporust and it does work great but is cost prohibitive for sure. Vinegar is just acetic acid, which is an organic acid like citric and they tend to be a bit more easier to handle. Phsophoric, muriatic (hydrochloric) and other inorganic acids can be more aggressive and tough on your skin as well. Take it from a guy that still has concentrated sulfuric scars from a small incident on the job once.
The basic bath with baking soda is a must after almost any acid treatment. Followed by a thorough dry and some sort of top coat. Flash rust will happen with almost any steel or iron part pretty quickly because of the really fresh surface exposure.
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