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07-16-2020, 01:23 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Hampton Roads VA
Posts: 643
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New floor pan in and I have some questions
So hopefully some folks who have done some of these can weigh in.
I was really careful bracing up my cab good before starting anything, so I dont think anything moved. I did replace the front pillars but took templates of the angles, measurements etc and they are pretty dang close if not dead on. My height measurements are good, the old measurements between the original floor and the braces are right. The rear holes where the front pillar is supposed to bolt into the floor do not seem like they are forward far enough. The holes are almost showing past the pillar. Where the front floor lip meets the flange on the firewall lip, the inner lip (closest to the hump) is very tight, but the outer lip has about a 1/4 inch gap. If I could suck that gap in, I think the holes would be in a much better position. I am wondering if I should pie cut the floor where the inner lip is tight, to allow the outer edges to suck up more towards the firewall. I dont want to mess up any alignment though so im not sure what to do. I tried using clamps to pull the floor forward without much success. The back pillar hole im not too worried about because I bent that around alot removing rockers and floor (thin and weak metal). I have to replace those anyway. Im not sure if the repro pillars and floor just arent lining up because of differences in stamping or what. My current plan if nothing else comes up is to put my doors on and mock up my cab corners, then rockers to make sure it will work.
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07-19-2020, 09:35 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Hampton Roads VA
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Re: New floor pan in and I have some questions
Can anyone post their original inner/outer rocker seam (without rubber)? Im confused because my doors are literally hitting the inner rockers. Passenger side fits fine, but driver size needs another 1/8 inch. Not sure how the doors are supposed to meet them
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70 C20 Build link : Project Montezuma http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=794479 How to repair that rusted out 67-72 c10-c30! Please subscribe! https://www.youtube.com/c/MaycoCustomRestorations |
07-20-2020, 01:08 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Here
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Re: New floor pan in and I have some questions
I am subscribed as I will be doing this soon. Just curious what brand your floor is?
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07-20-2020, 09:35 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Tucson AZ by way of WI & CA
Posts: 509
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Re: New floor pan in and I have some questions
Highly suggest putting the doors on and checking gaps. Do one side at a time and if you need to weld the door in place to hold things, then do it. Most likely the flanges just need to be reshaped to add the extra length to close the gaps. If you do decide to add cuts here and there to help with the fit, suggest doing it a distance away, on a flat area so you can clean them up.
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07-20-2020, 10:32 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Iowa
Posts: 267
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Re: New floor pan in and I have some questions
I did the same floor pan, A and B pillars, rockers, cab corners. On mine the bolt holes were not exact either, simply opened the holes up a little and put bolts in. Probably wouldn't hurt to tack the A pillar to outer floor in place of bolts. The worst fit for me was the flange at the peak of trans hump and flange at the front driver/passenger corners. Used a 2x4 and small sledge to close up the gaps, it didn't take much, maybe 1/4" off? Plug welded as I went along.
If your pre-measurements are dead on, you should be totally fine to reshape some metal but I would definitely fit the doors and rocker before you burn it in completely. I'm a total amateur but this worked well for me. You can see my build thread, Grandpas 72 restoration, to see my replacement. |
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