55.2-59 Pre-ownership inquiries.

[68shortwide]

Was recently offered an amazing deal on a '55 panel delivery. Factory suspension, i6/3spd and alot of amateur body "repairs". I have always loved this particular style, this particular rig, and I'm 90% screaming "DO IT!" on the inside. The few questions I have are as follows...
1. How screwed are we for repair panels on the rockers and rear valance, possibly rear doors? I cant see the back of the truck yet so I'm not sure how deep this goes.
2. Common chassis swaps? As much as I appreciate *feeling* the ride of the 1950s. I'd really like to use it as much as possible within the family so a disc brake IFS would be nice at the minimum, maybe helper bags in the back so I have both ride quality and carrying capacity? Provisions for SB/BB and an overdrive. I've read that S10 frames are common swaps but I'd be looking at something heavier duty?
3. Why are you all so nice on here? I've skimmed through the first 5 pages of this subsection and everyone is so civil here. lol

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 68shortwide

Was recently offered an amazing deal on a '55 panel delivery. Factory suspension, i6/3spd and alot of amateur body "repairs". I have always loved this particular style, this particular rig, and I'm 90% screaming "DO IT!" on the inside. The few questions I have are as follows...
1. How screwed are we for repair panels on the rockers and rear valance, possibly rear doors? I cant see the back of the truck yet so I'm not sure how deep this goes.
2. Common chassis swaps? As much as I appreciate *feeling* the ride of the 1950s. I'd really like to use it as much as possible within the family so a disc brake IFS would be nice at the minimum, maybe helper bags in the back so I have both ride quality and carrying capacity? Provisions for SB/BB and an overdrive. I've read that S10 frames are common swaps but I'd be looking at something heavier duty?
3. Why are you all so nice on here? I've skimmed through the first 5 pages of this subsection and everyone is so civil here. lol

I have nothing technical for you, but it seems that troublemakers take about 5 skips before they are out of the pond.

[68shortwide]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I have nothing technical for you, but it seems that troublemakers take about 5 skips before they are out of the pond.

I may be jumping the gun a tad, yes. I just like seeing the diving board before I jump in. Lol

[MiraclePieCo]

We could give better advice if we had the price and some photos.

Also the contact info of the seller ;-)

[joedoh]

1. rust repair, especially at the bottom where everything ties to everything, is in my opinion a terrible way to spend time on a project and if you dont have some special skill for it will actually shorten your life, or more accurately at least every time I do floor/lower rust repair I want to die. seriously consider a better donor before signing up for a lot of rust repair. I realize panel trucks are hard to find, so the scarcity of the model probably will have a bearing on your decision.

2. s10 swaps are common on the 47-55.1 trucks but are generally considered too narrow for the 55.2-59. its not impossible, some have done it. on the other hand later 73-87 truck frames are slightly too wide. some guys have used trailblazer chassis, which are almost right but are also not super straightforward. with those search terms you can likely find some examples of all of them in the project section, you can log in, click on projects and builds, select search this forum, and find some. you are right that uprating the BRAKES is the best way to go faster, so if you rebuilt the front end and updated the brakes and then the rearend (for more top speed) you might have everything you need.

3. no bad people here just some hard and fast opinions. and lots of talk.

I have been to florissant, is your tap water drinkable yet? been at least 10 years.

[68shortwide]

Originally Posted by joedoh

1. rust repair, especially at the bottom where everything ties to everything, is in my opinion a terrible way to spend time on a project and if you dont have some special skill for it will actually shorten your life, or more accurately at least every time I do floor/lower rust repair I want to die. seriously consider a better donor before signing up for a lot of rust repair. I realize panel trucks are hard to find, so the scarcity of the model probably will have a bearing on your decision.

2. s10 swaps are common on the 47-55.1 trucks but are generally considered too narrow for the 55.2-59. its not impossible, some have done it. on the other hand later 73-87 truck frames are slightly too wide. some guys have used trailblazer chassis, which are almost right but are also not super straightforward. with those search terms you can likely find some examples of all of them in the project section, you can log in, click on projects and builds, select search this forum, and find some. you are right that uprating the BRAKES is the best way to go faster, so if you rebuilt the front end and updated the brakes and then the rearend (for more top speed) you might have everything you need.

3. no bad people here just some hard and fast opinions. and lots of talk.

I have been to florissant, is your tap water drinkable yet? been at least 10 years.

1. My dad is a career bodyman/fabricator, he's a sick mind that actually mildly enjoys this kinda stuff. I just didn't know if they made patches or he if he'd be forced to hand build everything.

2. Will keep looking at those, also researching track widths of subframes, newer frames, etc. Not afraid to shorten something that has a similar track width and build mounts.

That's a great question, I don't really drink tap water so I'm not sure. I always go for the filtered ice/water dispenser in the fridge door.

Miracle, the current price is free...Pictures don't do much, it's shoved in the corner and the front ends off of it sans hood.

[joedoh]

ugh, i dont like it at all. the worst part is how far back you have to cut the metal to get to good metal, and not that orangey stuff that blows through.

I havent ever seen panel specific patches, if you cant find it your dad may have to fab it all.


I visited a good friend in st charles and we spent the day around there and forissant. the tap water was cloudy and stinky. he had a bulk store pallet of bottled water in his garage.

[_Ogre]

to the best of my knowledge there are no panel specific patch panels, only patch panels available are half ton swb stepside
i have heard the 60-66 fleetside panels are close match, can not verify
rear doors nothing available but used
plus side is: doors forward is the same as truck cab

i have mustII on my truk, don't think it would be heavy enough for the panel
go for it, especially since your dad has this sickness...

[G&R's57GMC]

I went with NoLimit Wide Ride IFS . In my case I chose air bags , they also offer coil overs .

This system gives you the right width and is heavy duty compared to other IFS systems .

Here's mine ...

[G&R's57GMC]

I'm using a 5.3 with 4L60E out of a '05 Chevy Van . It nestles in the cross member with room for the A/C compressor in the stock low mount position .

Note : This is a 2010 kit the newer kit has even more room for the engine .

[dsraven]

ok, dumb question but bear with me, I just got off my 24 hr shift at work.
55 chevy panel could be an AD (advanced design) truck or a TF (task force) truck. first or second design. they switched the body style mid year. more info required.
either way you will likely need to make any panels you need. haven't seen any replacement stuff. good thing you know a body man. it would help to have some sheet metal machines for making those big panels but I am sure your dear old dad could figure it out if he has been doing bodywork as a career.
pics. we need pics.

[dsraven]

if it is an ad truck check this build out. ask your dad if he is onboard for a build like this, stand back for the answer, haha.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=348244

[68shortwide]

Originally Posted by dsraven

ok, dumb question but bear with me, I just got off my 24 hr shift at work.
55 chevy panel could be an AD (advanced design) truck or a TF (task force) truck. first or second design. they switched the body style mid year. more info required.
either way you will likely need to make any panels you need. haven't seen any replacement stuff. good thing you know a body man. it would help to have some sheet metal machines for making those big panels but I am sure your dear old dad could figure it out if he has been doing bodywork as a career.
pics. we need pics.

It's a TF truck, I tried to clear any confusion with the 55.5-59 tag in the title area. Fabrication wise, we have most of the equipment to do it. I'll be letting him tackle the rockers, and I'll try my hand at rust repair in the footwells and front firewall sections. The pictures I do have don't show the truck in it's entirety. I do have some pictures that I have questions on though, neither of us are factory 50s GM truck experts so both of us are leery if they're factory seams or done after the fact.

[68shortwide]

Link to my Google drive folder. I have questions about the brow above the windshield, and right behind the drivers door by the drip rail. Just curious if they're actually factory. The rest just highlight rust areas beyond the rockers and quarters. The floors look great though! https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...Lw?usp=sharing

[G&R's57GMC]

Yes the brow is factory .

Your best friend for a build like this will be http://www.LMCtruck.com
Because the '55 is a split year I selected '56 3100 pickup for these .

Here's 2 photos from their online catalog of the front body parts and step parts .
They have more parts for the front end .

But alas nothing for your panel from the door openings back .
Your fuel tank is only used on the Panel and Carryall .

[G&R's57GMC]

Here's some more parts pages

[dsraven]

for starters, check the floor on the newb. the task force era had issues with cowl vent plenum drains plugging and the snow melt/heavy rain/water would build up in the cowls on each side, where the kick panel vents are. to compound the issue the cowl intake grille has no screen so needles, leaves and whatever can easily get in and plug the small drain hole. if enough flow came into the cowl so the drain couldn't get rid of it then it would fill the cowl and then run out the kick panel vents onto the floor, this rusted out the side cowls, floor, steps, door hinge pillars and surrounding areas, front fender lower rear mounts, forward cab mounts under the floor, and anything else in the general area depending on how long the truck sat and how moist the climate was. another area of concern is the brow above the windshield and the rain gutter belt around the roof. not sure on the panels about the rear corners of the rear body as well as the rest of the steel around body mounts in general. after that the front fenders are usually rusted top to bottom in front of the doors and the cowls are suspect where the front fender bolts on at the top. just inside the door there should be a vertical panel in the kick panel area that can be removed to check the integrity of the hinge pillars.
post up some pics, you have us all curious. of course you bought it, right?

[vintovka]

FWIW if you must pay someone to do rust restoration it can be a budget buster to the max. Don't ask me how i know.

[68shortwide]

Originally Posted by dsraven

post up some pics, you have us all curious. of course you bought it, right?

It's spoken for, the only stipulation is that I move it by spring. I'll be selling a couple cars to make space for it. I've already bought a used instrument cluster and interior window trim pieces for the doors. I'll have to look into door panels as it seems the passenger side has a door panel but the driver's lacks it.

There is rust in the lower firewall and the footwell step. Not really concerned as of yet. All body concerns will be withheld until I get it out of the corner and onto a lift.

Originally Posted by vintovka

FWIW if you must pay someone to do rust restoration it can be a budget buster to the max. Don't ask me how i know.

As luck would have it, all I have to pay for rustoration is food, beverages and the occasional assistance in bead rolling. I'll try my hand on what wont be seen, and let the pro do his work on making the rest of the rig pretty again.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by G&R's57GMC

Your best friend for a build like this will be http://www.LMCtruck.com

being in florissant, i recommend you put together the big order and pick up at the counter in lenexa. they give a 10% discount and NO shipping charge, which at the current rate will save you a lot of money for your 7 hr round trip. I just did this the past weekend, a friend and I picked up over $2500 worth of parts and by our estimates saved over $600 in discount and shipping. add to that you can have parts the next day instead of when it finally ships. I am 2.5 hours away and wait over a week for an order sometimes.

[68shortwide]

Originally Posted by joedoh

being in florissant, i recommend you put together the big order and pick up at the counter in lenexa. they give a 10% discount and NO shipping charge, which at the current rate will save you a lot of money for your 7 hr round trip. I just did this the past weekend, a friend and I picked up over $2500 worth of parts and by our estimates saved over $600 in discount and shipping. add to that you can have parts the next day instead of when it finally ships. I am 2.5 hours away and wait over a week for an order sometimes.

That is a consideration, I have some rotary (Yes the cute little mazda motors lol) friends over there and I have an unrelated reason to go over about 3-4 times a year. Killing 3 birds with 1 trip sounds like a great idea indeed.

[joedoh]

i have had a few rotaries, a 13b sidedraft swapped b2200 and a turbo II that was fun on a bun.

its a fun trip, order ahead of time like it suggests on the website because then you can stand behind the guys who didnt while they ask to see the differences between various options in their 20 part counter order. thats what happened to us. 2.5 hr drive, almost 1 hour wait in the showroom.

they were very apologetic though, and showroom scenery was nice. my 56 big window is a looooong way from this.

[68shortwide]

Originally Posted by joedoh

i have had a few rotaries, a 13b sidedraft swapped b2200 and a turbo II that was fun on a bun.

Very cool, mine is a gutted 1990 GTU atm. I have turboII differential and axles, front calipers the front suspension torn apart waiting to be rebuilt. Plan is to source an aluminum 5.3/62 truck motor and a 6spd for it. The friends I have over there are all SA22c/FB guys.

[68shortwide]

Always willing to blindly jump into new projects, I picked up a set of ratty vent windows and a used gauge cluster to rebuild. Ended up snapping the speedometer needle off. Looked at a new one and realized I'd run into the same problem pulling the speedo faceplate off. Had a very nice gentleman offer his advice on rebuilding it so I'll be contacting him Monday. Drilled the rivets on the vent window frame to pull the original glass frames and gaskets out, is there a source and/or tool for the pins/rivets used in the window frame assembly? I'd like to learn as much as I can and not just buy new assemblies of anything whenever possible.

Interesting note, when I looked at the truck it appeared to have a passenger door panel, but looking at pictures and noticing there's no real door panels available for the TFs I guess it's just a different door that was stuck on and painted to match on the exterior. Having half a mind to restore the interior of the truck, restore the engine bay and chassis, but leave the exterior with as much character as possible after the rust is fixed.

[joedoh]

rebuild the old vent assemblies, the new ones fit terribly. jim carter I think sells the rivet kits

I forgot I had a GTU in college that ran super poorly and eventually stopped. I only had it a few weeks and parted it on ebay, made a ton. fun fact: rotor housings fit in a usps flat rate box.