2wd swap

[KQQL IT]

Recently got a 1982 2wd K5 jimmy

It's apparently been hit in right side hard at some point before me.
Frame is junk since found a 83 4wd frame.
Current state of confusion.

And since we're into it this far. Planning on a 1-1-1/2 inch section of the crossmember some tube A arms and bags.
Rear bagged 2 link

Is it possible to move the crossmember forward much without getting into the steering components?

BTW I'm really thinking these p-19 pins do more damage than good on these trucks.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Yes the bagged truck i helped a kid build was fine that way. Although some people do have to slide the box forward too.

Incase you did not know. 4x4, and 2wd steering boxes are different. Something about different angle of operation.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Recently got a 1982 2wd K5 jimmy

It's apparently been hit in right side hard at some point before me.
Frame is junk since found a 83 4wd frame.
Current state of confusion.

And since we're into it this far. Planning on a 1-1-1/2 inch section of the crossmember some tube A arms and bags.
Rear bagged 2 link

Is it possible to move the crossmember forward much without getting into the steering components?

BTW I'm really thinking these p-19 pins do more damage than good on these trucks.

Moving the x-member forward & up but not moving the steering seems like asking for trouble. I would do a frame 'Z' to move everything together for a better (more consistent) result.

[KQQL IT]

Tie rods on the bottom of the steering arm with a bumpsteer kit is the plan for that.
Or a obs spindle which would accomplish the same thing.


As too the steering box I'm using our existing box.
The donor 4x4 box was gone.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Tie rods on the bottom of the steering arm with a bumpsteer kit is the plan for that.
Or a obs spindle which would accomplish the same thing.


As too the steering box I'm using our existing box.
The donor 4x4 box was gone.

It's not just the TRE's & Bumpsteer concern. The Pitman arm + Idler will be @ a different height as well as fore/aft placement vs. OE.
I'm not saying things won't play well together but I would want to keep things as consistent as possible.

[KQQL IT]

Looked at a few Z ing threads. Not feeling that at all.
My 17 year old got this pos jimmy and a tig welder.
So the possibilities are endless.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Looked at a few Z ing threads. Not feeling that at all.
My 17 year old got this pos jimmy and a tig welder.
So the possibilities are endless.

Understandable. Some people won't cut a frame. I wouldn't either if it couldn't be done w/o retaining full strength.

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Understandable. Some people won't cut a frame. I wouldn't either if it couldn't be done w/o retaining full strength.

That isn't my issue with the Z my 68 was cut and stretched in like 74 I'm told.

Frame would need cut twice.
The z and then the core support.
Plus the engine mounts are all different.

Pass

Mild section drop spindles
Move the lower arms forward will achieve the look I'm after.

Appreciate the info.


This low low stuff is new territory
Always been a clip 2 coils and a flip it on all my C-10s

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

That isn't my issue with the Z my 68 was cut and stretched in like 74 I'm told.

Frame would need cut twice.
The z and then the core support.
Plus the engine mounts are all different.

Pass

Mild section drop spindles
Move the lower arms forward will achieve the look I'm after.

Appreciate the info.


This low low stuff is new territory
Always been a clip 2 coils and a flip it on all my C-10s

Ok. Only moving the lower arms forward helps w/improving caster. That's different vs moving the entire x-member which changes upper a-arm/lower a-arm/spindle hub centers together.
Moving the entire x-member forward starts encroaching on the steering box/Pitman & Idler mounting centerlines.

My dually has 3" spindles, a 1.5" sectioned x-member, & PB tubular 1" forward lower arms w/bags. Previously it used .750" forward GM a-arms w/coils (1 coil removed).

[KQQL IT]

I wasn't sure about the x member or the A arms.
Just want to avoid the wheels back look.

With the 1.5 section you did. Was the steering input shaft into the left upper arm.
Looks like they might hit.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

I wasn't sure about the x member or the A arms.
Just want to avoid the wheels back look.

With the 1.5 section you did. Was the steering input shaft into the left upper arm.
Looks like they might hit.

Yes, they will interfere @ the front pivot/bushing. The bushing barrel OD for the later arms & aftermarket arms is too large (even Michigan Metalworks 'Dodger' series arms wouldn't clear).

The driver side upper from a 63-72 or 73-87 HD truck will clear w/a small c-notch. The HD bushings have a smaller footprint/OD & will clear but the a-arms front 'leg' still gets close when cycling through suspension travel. A small notch allows the required clearance.

Another option is to use a multi joint shaft assembly to clear. It would require a center bearing support. I did the notched x-member/notched HD bushing arm approach on mine as it's a cleaner look w/minimal extras (& recommended them to the people I sold notched x-members to).

[KQQL IT]

We start cutting this weekend..
Can't wait to watch my son learn this stuff. He's more into the fabrication part than then the truck

[KQQL IT]

Easier said than done.
But 1.5 inch section is cut and the kid is getting some filler down

[KQQL IT]

Fixing my cut off wheel wildin.
I believe my kid is on his way.

[SCOTI]

Nothin' to it but to do it. I would agree he's getting it done.

[KQQL IT]

A slight dilemma. The engine stands are aligning weird

[SCOTI]

I had to do spacers on my old '68 when I did my first x-member so there's that option. What about tweaking the flanges slightly? Could that help?

On that set-up, the notched x-member & MM towers used were from a Square & placed between the 68's rails. I used some aftermarket tubular MM towers & made spacers to make up the difference. Unfortunately, I never checked the fit of the stock Squarebody x-member/MM towers before I started the mods.

[KQQL IT]

We didn't check them either.
Those brackets where laying on the floor of the blazer when we got it.
If I vice gripped the top to the flange and pulled the bottom down with a C clamp it would come. But nothing lined up.
We where mocking up the fit after bolting the crossmember down.

[tinydb84]

I havent had a problem with the towers not fitting when I sectioned a couple crossmembers. Assuming you did the crossmember correctly I would guess that the towers are off a different generation of truck. Did you try flipping them side to side?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

We didn't check them either.
Those brackets where laying on the floor of the blazer when we got it.
If I vice gripped the top to the flange and pulled the bottom down with a C clamp it would come. But nothing lined up.
We where mocking up the fit after bolting the crossmember down.

I'd tweak the flanges on the tower ends to see if it's possible to get them 'closer' & let the mounting hardware cinch them into the final position. If the hardware doesn't seem stressed/forced @ that point, I'd be fine w/calling it good. Or, as stated, if needed slip some .250" material between as spacers. Worked fine in my application.

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

I havent had a problem with the towers not fitting when I sectioned a couple crossmembers. Assuming you did the crossmember correctly I would guess that the towers are off a different generation of truck. Did you try flipping them side to side?

Correct? That maybe a stretch 1st go at a section
Flipping them made the mounts go sideways.

@scoti
We'll try that next if nothing else cooperates

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

I havent had a problem with the towers not fitting when I sectioned a couple crossmembers. Assuming you did the crossmember correctly I would guess that the towers are off a different generation of truck. Did you try flipping them side to side?

Correct? That maybe a stretch 1st go at a section
Flipping them made the mounts go sideways.

@scoti
We'll try that next if nothing else cooperates

[KQQL IT]

Unbolted everything let it relax.
Gave the top flange some attitude and it's a bunch closer

[KQQL IT]

3/16 spacer was the answer.
Wouldn't cooperate with a ratchet strap pulling the rails together.
And I have no idea how the nuts got doubled up like that?!

[SCOTI]

That should get it done.