HEI ignition

[Washerpc93]

Forgive me for asking but I tried searching threads and post but the search bar wouldn't let me add text.

I need help installing new HEI ignition on my inline 6 230. Gmc . From what I am understanding I run a new wire to the distributor from firewall . What about the 2 wires going to the starter? Do I leave both hooked to selanoid or do away with one of them ?

[kwmech]

The yellow one gets removed to the firewall and replaced with a 14 ga red to the hei along with the lead to the existing coil

[Accelo]

Since most years C10's have the resister, built into the wire, that runs from the engine side of the fuse block it has to be replaced. The HEI will require 12Volts at the distributor.
To keep everything from looking hacked up I typically strip the tape from the engine harness and remove the old resistance wire. Then I cut it about 3" from the fuse block. Then I solder a replacement wire to it and run it to the HEI. Then re-wrap the wiring. I typically use the same tape I removed with a single wrap of electrical tape at the ends. It will provide the 12V switched power that the HEI requires and doesn't hack up any of the factory wiring in the process.
It looks like it came this way when you are finished.

Hopefully you received the correct 12v plug with the HEI? If not they can be purchased or you can make do with a spade terminal. Easier to figure the wiring out, on the HEI, if you do it before installing the distributor.

Since the resistance of the wire increases with the length the short 3" section will not drop the voltage significantly and will make no difference. This is a great upgrade. Plugs will last longer and the motor will start better and likely run cleaner. Increase the plug gap to the specification for a six cylinder with the HEI when your done.
Cheers.

[Washerpc93]

Thank you guys . So just to be clear: remove yellow from starter. ? That will just leave the the one wire hooked to selanoid. ( purple I think ) ? Started running new wire last night .

[Accelo]

Yes the other (yellow) is only required for ignition's with points.
You can confirm by unhooking the yellow and then confirming the starter works.
You will be good to go.

[HotWheelsFan]

Yes also, that yellow wire gets energized by the starter. It gets 12v power from the battery cable going to the solenoid. During starter cranking, the solenoid activation acts as a switch or relay completing the 12v circuit from the battery cable stud to the small terminal and the yellow wire to the coil. As you know, this wire is no longer needed with HEI ignition.

Bob

[bry593]

At starter - Delete yellow, keep purple (key to solenoid).
At HEI - Use 12 AWG, pink, GXL wire. I believe AMC used ballast resistor, which should be bypassed. Route 12 AWG all the way back to the firewall bulkhead for a clean look.

[RichardJ]

>>Then I cut it about 3" from the fuse block. Then I solder a replacement wire to it and run it to the HEI. Then re-wrap the wiring. I typically use the same tape I removed with a single wrap of electrical tape at the ends. It will provide the 12V switched power that the HEI requires and doesn't hack up any of the factory wiring in the process.<<


How can you say cutting and soldering, isn't hacking and say it with a straight face.

The drawing below has all the wires removed except for the wires needed for this conversation.

The 12R (red) wire is the 12volts from the Battery/Alternator, originating in this drawing at the Bulkhead Connector. This 12R supplies 12 volts TO the Ignition Switch and also TO the Always Hot part of the Fuse Box.

In the Key "Start" position of the Ignition Switch, the 12 volts is connected to the 12PPL (purple) wire, which supplies the 12 volts through the Bulkhead connector to the starter solenoid in order to crank the engine.

In the Key "Start" and in the Key "Run" position, the 12 volts is connected to the 12P (pink) wire.

THE 12P WIRE SUPPLIES 12 VOLTS TO THE SWITCHED PORTION OF THE FUSE BOX AND DIRECTLY TO THE BULKHEAD CONNECTOR.

Let me shout that again.

THE 12P WIRE SUPPLIES 12 VOLTS DIRECTLY TO THE BULKHEAD CONNECTOR. DIRECTLY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH.

This connection in the Bulkhead connector is where GM connected the Engine Harness - Ballast Resistor Wire.
This is the most direct route for the 12VOLTS from the Ignition Switch to where you want to obtain the 12 VOLTS for your HEI.

Remove the Ballast Resistor Wire from the Engine Side of the bulkhead connector, connect a new non-resistor wire connecting directly to the HEI.

Pulling one wire out of the bulkhead connector and connecting a new wire, is not cutting, it is not soldering and it is not hacking.

The other wire remaining in my drawing is the 14BRN/W wire. This 14BRN/W is not part of the Starter circuit or the Ignition Circuit. This wire is the Exciter wire for the Charging Circuit. This wire is used with the original EX-Regulated alternator remains unaltered if a conversion is made to a IN-Regulated Alternator.
Please don't be alarmed or go into hysteria if I tell you this 14BRN/W, Exciter wire is a Resistor Wire. The sky will not fall.

[Washerpc93]

Ok. Got it . I wasn't aware the white wire was actually resisted internally. Is there a trick to getting the block off fire wall ? I pulled the 2 tabs away but it didn't seem to do much .

[zosoppp]

Originally Posted by Washerpc93

Is there a trick to getting the block off fire wall ? I pulled the 2 tabs away but it didn't seem to do much .

There is a bolt in the center of the square that has to come out (engine bay side) and then the two half bulkhead connectors can be worked off. The driver side one (bundle goes into left fender) with the bolt hole has to come off first, then the passenger side one (engine block harness) can be worked off.

[Washerpc93]

Ok my block doesn't look like that but I can figure it out from there. Thank you so much for explanation. Wiring is my least favorite thing. .

[RichardJ]

>> I wasn't aware the white wire was actually resisted internally.<<

What white wire??????

You don't have to go any farther into the truck's wiring than the engine harness side of the bulkhead connector.

Follow this thread.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=708975

[kwmech]

The white wire is the resistor, it comes directly off of the bulkhead connector then through the harness where the 2 yellow wires connect ( one going to the starter and the other to the coil).


No need to leave 3'' hanging out, in fact don't do that.


Once the harness is untaped, remove the wire completely from the bulk head and pull it out. Small flat blade screwdriver to kind of compress the spade. You'll need the packard 56 correct spade to crimp to the new wire. Once crimped shove it into the hole left from the resistor wire. Put the bulkhead connector back together. Route the wire the way you want it to the distributor, cut it and splice the hei connector to it and then plug it in

[Washerpc93]

Its a braided wire that is white. But I got it now.

[kwmech]

Originally Posted by Washerpc93

Its a braided wire that is white. But I got it now.

That's the one. It'll be about 2 feet long (ish) then will have 2 yellow wires soldered to it about the center of the firewall. Getting the spade out of the block (like I said) will take a small flat screwdriver and lightly compress the free end of the spade. you'll see a split in the electrical allowing you to do that. After that it still may be a little stubborn b'cuz of the goo in there but it will pull out.

[Washerpc93]

Ok. I'll work on that tomorrow. Just have to take my time

[Accelo]

I want to assure you my method was one method of completing the job, not a hack. Just one of many methods to solve his issue, getting switched 12v to the HEI. Not everyone will do the job the same way.
My method wasn't a hack, it was an opinion just like yours.

Our definitions of Hack may also be different. I believe we both have workable solutions. Possibly next time I do this I will attempt your method?
Cheers

[bry593]

Originally Posted by Washerpc93

Its a braided wire that is white. But I got it now.

Yup. And did you notice the actual wire inside is silver instead of copper? That's because it is made from stainless steel. Stainless has high resistance, hence a built in ballast resistor.

A lot of guys fail to remove this wire and it starves the HEI for voltage, eventually smoking the module.....

[RichardJ]

The wire you are calling White was actually labeled by GM as 20W/OR/PPL.

White/Orange/Purple was the actual color, but I haven't seen one in 30 years that could be physically described as anything other than DIRTY White.

The wire is NiCr, nickel-chromium and usually referred to as Nichrome.

[bry593]

Yes, you are correct. Ni-Chrome is the term used for stainless steel electric wire.

[PanelDeland]

There's a thread on doing this somewhere in the archives. They listed the part # (NAPA) for the connector that goes in the block. You just press it with a small screwdriver and pull and the wire and connector come out. Then you crimp the new connector on the wire and push it in until it locks in place. Run it to the distributor. I sweated it until I got started. Took all of about 30 min including installing new cap rotor and wires.

[72SB]

Few ways to skin this cat regarding replacing the white resistance wire. I was intending on just putting in a Pertronix unit in stock dizzy. I just run a new wire from IGN on fuse block and tape back the stock white wire in the wire loom as I add the red wire in that loom.

? on plug gap with HEI vs points, what is it?

[Washerpc93]

Ran the wire . Truck started right up. . Carburetor needs work but at least it's running . Thank you

[HO455]

Congratulations and good luck with your carburetor.