New steering components - Oversteer

[HwyStarJoe]

I just replaced the inner\outer tie rods and idler arm in my '69 2wd C10 due to them wanting to kill me. The steering tightened up nicely.

I measured and put the tie rods together the same length the old ones came out. Obviously I'll need to align it now... basically the toe-in\toe-out. I'll find those specs and can do that in the garage.

Now it seriously over steers.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but that would be because of too much toe-out, correct? I did have to adjust one side longer than measured to get both ends to line up, and I could hear a tire squeal making a sweeping turn.

I don't know if alignment specs change when the truck has been lowered with drop spindles and air bags, but I'm going to start with factory specs to get the over steer corrected.

Thanks

[FamilyTruckster65]

Yes, Toe out will make it want to steer more. The inside tire will have more degrees of turning angle. That is not necessarily a bad thing, just not what most are used to. Also it will wear the tire a bit more.

[HwyStarJoe]

OK, thanks Clark (Griswald)...

It didn't oversteer before the new parts but now I can't go over 35 without ending up in someone's living room just trying to keep it in a straight line...scary. It was almost better when it was loose and wandered.

[Richard]

A quick thought. Is the center link installed backwards?

[HwyStarJoe]

I don't think so... but I didn't remove it.

[SCOTI]

Alignment specs don't 'change' only when comparing standard height vs lowered. The same specs can be used.

That being said, the original settings were spec'd back in the 60-70's. A lot has changed & updated regarding suspensions (parts, materials & understanding).

This is a good read on alignment info:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=487363

Better specs are easily achieved. Better being defined as handling the roads more positively vs. specs that require lower speeds when navigating the roads (because slower speeds automatically = safer driving as far as GOV entities are concerned).

The factory wanted zero to POS .5 Camber. It did not cause excessive tire wear. I target NEG .5 Camber. it yields better tire contact patch when navigating corners/turns w/the same wear as POS .5°.

The factory spec'd 2°-3° Caster. Average modern cars are around 5° & performance cars are even more aggressive. I target 5° as the minimum.

Toe is subjective & dialed in depending on the other settings & wheel/tire sizes. I like to keep it near zero when pushed so I target slightly neg numbers so it's near zero or just over when pushed.

[HwyStarJoe]

Thanks SCOTI...
Yeah I read that yesterday in a past post. Makes perfect sense. Thank you

[HwyStarJoe]

Just an update...

Yes the toe-out was massive. I just eyeballed it in and ran around the block...total difference. Strange how just new tie rod ends matched to the old ones would be so far off. We're talking a total of 2" or more. 😳

Then once I tightened up the lash on the steering gear (old refurb unit) the truck stays where I point it.
👍🏻

[SCOTI]

Good to read.