47-55.1 Looking for Advice on Upcoming 1950 Truck Project

[pjmoreland]

My wife's uncle has a 1950 Chevy truck that is on loan to him from his daughter's future father-in-law. He has this truck in his possession so that the two of us can spend a week working on it for fun. From what we've heard, the truck spent its life as a weekend vehicle that was kept in a garage at a vacation home in Washington state. It was included in the sale of that home a little over a year ago. The last time it ran was when the previous owner drove it and then pulled it back into the garage. It sat for five years before the previous owner attempted to start it again, at which time it wouldn't even turn over. That was about a year ago, so it hasn't run in 6 years.

The current owner replaced the starter motor and spark plugs, and I believe he tried to rotate the engine by turning the crankshaft pulley. It sounds like he was unsuccessful at getting the engine to turn.

The truck was converted to a 12V system at some point.

Our primary goal for this project is to get the engine running. A secondary goal would be to get it somewhat roadworthy, which would involve going through the brakes.

I am all about 67-72 Chevy trucks, so I know next to nothing about this generation of Chevy trucks. My first truck was a 67 with an inline 6 and points. I have rebuilt engines, transmissions, rear ends, brakes, etc. and I am experienced with electrical debugging and design. Are there any words of advice you can offer that will help me understand what I'm getting myself into on this 1950 truck? Are there any commonly known issues that I should watch out for? Any and all feedback will be appreciated.

I've got 55 photos to post, so I'll do so in following posts.

[pjmoreland]

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[pjmoreland]

Overall photo

[mongocanfly]

Not a bad looking truck.!!!

[joedoh]

that will clearly run again with just some work on the points and some fuel down the carb.

nice find! keeping it original should be easy. someone has already converted the truck to a 235, the 848 casting means it is a later 12v 235 starting in i believe 57-58. that is yards better than a 54-56 235 and a football field better than a 216 which is what the truck likely came with. I bet it pegs that factory oil pressure gauge haha.

rebuild the carb, it looks like it is leaking more than a colander and make sure you clean up all the spilled gas before cranking on it too seriously.

start a project thread in the project section and i will follow it! great looking old truck, in medium blue thats even better.

[pjmoreland]

That's very interesting about the engine. Thanks!

That's an oil bath in the air filter, right?

The owner pulled the radiator out so he could access the front of the crankshaft. I believe the liquid on the floor is antifreeze, but I don't know for sure. I'll be heading up there in a couple of weeks.

[dsraven]

check the brakes before you do anything, or at least chock the wheels so it doesn't surprise you while you work on it.
cheap to redo the carb. check/replace the points/condensor and remember that it isn't like a newer vehicle where you can leave the ignition switch on for periods with the engine not running, that burns the points up fast. change the oil and check/top up the rest of the fluids so you can get it running safely. let it run for awhile, maybe several times so it can heat and cool a few times. then do an engine condition check. adjust valves, do a dry and wet compression test, oil pressure check cold and hot, coolant strength check/replace along with the thermostat. belts, hoses, etc. do a comprehensive bumper to bumper check over so you know what you have and what it will cost to get it back to good running/operating condition. consider updating the brake master cylinder to a dual system for safety. when you know what it needs you can get a plan together for what you want it to be when done.
nice pic package. truck looks like it was kept care of.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by dsraven

check the brakes before you do anything, or at least chock the wheels so it doesn't surprise you while you work on it.
cheap to redo the carb. check/replace the points/condensor and remember that it isn't like a newer vehicle where you can leave the ignition switch on for periods with the engine not running, that burns the points up fast. change the oil and check/top up the rest of the fluids so you can get it running safely. let it run for awhile, maybe several times so it can heat and cool a few times. then do an engine condition check. adjust valves, do a dry and wet compression test, oil pressure check cold and hot, coolant strength check/replace along with the thermostat. belts, hoses, etc. do a comprehensive bumper to bumper check over so you know what you have and what it will cost to get it back to good running/operating condition. consider updating the brake master cylinder to a dual system for safety. when you know what it needs you can get a plan together for what you want it to be when done.
nice pic package. truck looks like it was kept care of.

Thank you for that excellent list. Will I be able to buy ignition tune-up parts at a place like Napa, or will everything have to be ordered? Does this engine have hydraulic lifters?

[dsraven]

napa probably has all the tune up stuff and gaskets you need. they actually sell a lot of stuff for the old chevies, at least in Canada they do. check them for brake parts, coolant stuff, fluids etc.
the 235 may have solid lifters or hydraulic lifters, I think, for those years. if it has hydraulic lifters, and has sat around for awhile, the pistons inside the lifters may be gummed up a bit so beware of that when doing any valve adjustments. check the manual, if it came with one, or look on the old cars manual project for a manual you can download.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...esto/index.htm

[pjmoreland]

Thank you for the link!

[mick53]

If it's locked up I would soak the cylinders with the fluid of your choice overnight before trying to break it loose or you might break a ring or worse.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by mick53

If it's locked up I would soak the cylinders with the fluid of your choice overnight before trying to break it loose or you might break a ring or worse.

Will do!

[dsraven]

If its locked up I have had luck with ATF in the cylinders, dont be stingy. I have heard diesel works too. I use a prybar on the flywheel teeth, rock it both ways.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Thank you for that excellent list. Will I be able to buy ignition tune-up parts at a place like Napa, or will everything have to be ordered? Does this engine have hydraulic lifters?

848 started in 58, not 57 like i said, my bad. and yes, hydraulic lifters.

[dsraven]

I did a 54 for a friend. It sat in a quonset since the early 80's. Stuck. ATF and a few days sitting and it broke loose with the prybar.

[pjmoreland]

Ok, cool. We will get out the ATF if it is stubborn. That makes sense to pry at the flywheel teeth for more leverage.

10-4 on the hydraulic lifters. Hopefully they aren't gummed up.