55.2-59 Rust removal question

[popeyestruck]

Due to limited space I have to clean up the undercarriage of my 59 as I go. I have the front of the truck up to do a disc conversion and Kingpins while I'm there I want to wire brush the rust and then use a paint on converter before paint. What is the best products for the converter and paint? Also I could use new shocks front and rear and need an off the shelf source.

[mr48chev]

You are probably going to get a half dozen different answers on that and none may actually be wrong. Some stuff just may work better and last longer before the rust shows back up. I really don't have a solid answer to toss out though.

[mongocanfly]

Welcome..
If you want the best way...sandblast and epoxy primer..followed by a good undercoating
Wire brush will not give you good results I dont think
Theres way # 1

[dsraven]

what tools do you have available? compressor that will support a sandblaster? just basic hand tools? maybe a strip it disc or a flap disc on an angle grinder? these will not get into the tight corners or holes in the frame. like said above, sandblast and epoxy is what lasts. it depends on the built I guess, if you're just cleaning it up and wanna fresher look but not worried if the rust comes back then do what you can with what you have and then paint it over with rust paint. it will last tilk it doesn't but it is cheap to do and easy enough in tight spaces.
wear safety equipment, eye and lung protection and coveralls if using a wire wheel. you only get one set of everything. ventilate the area as well as you can.

[popeyestruck]

I'm working out of a single bay garage so space is an issue. I'd love to take the body off and do things right but can't . I'm just going to clean up where I can reach. Wire brush and grinder down to where I can paint on a rust converter then prime and paint . Its never going to be a show truck just a driver. I need front and rear shocks if anyone know autozone part #. I'll post a picture but cant figure out how

[mr48chev]

This is an example of wire brushed rusty metal sprayed with Rust-Oleum and left out in the weather for a year. I usually repaint these every year here at home.

It's a hanging basket hanger that I make and sell. the paint might hold up better in a more protected environment though.

I've never been big on snake oil remedies for much of anything preferring to do it right as Mongocanfly suggested but we all know that that isn't always in the cards and we have to clean, wire brush and put on a coating that hopefully works.

Por 15 started out as a rust converter coating outfit from the get go.
https://por15.com/

Eastwood has a batch of rust related coatings. They usually tend to jack someone else's formula when it comes to this kind of stuff though.
https://www.eastwood.com/paints/rust-solutions.html

You can get Rust-Oleum rust converter at ACE and then paint over it with their oil base paint. https://www.acehardware.com/departme...removers/13650

[dsraven]

Check out the thread on how to post pics, not that tough once you have done it with success. It has to be from the post reply button though, not the quick reply button.

[popeyestruck]

[dsraven]

bup-buh-dah! easy peasy to post pics, right? and right side up too.
nice looking truck. is it as rust free as it looks?

[popeyestruck]

Cab corners are rusted but I have replacement panels. Floors are good . For the most part its pretty solid except underneath frame area has usual rust. Whats your thoughts on corroseal 82320?

[Tempest67]

when I was working in a 1 car garage I built a body dolly.

I would roll the body, or the chassis outside, and work on the other inside in the winter, or if I was grinding/sanding, I would do that outside. It worked really well.


just an idea?

[dsraven]

awesome idea on the wheel chocks there tempest. oh, and the car body dolly is a great idea too. it also gets the parts up off the floor height to work on for old dudes like me, haha. nice pics. I remember working in a single garage with nowhere to put anything. now I have a 26 x 30 ft garage/shop and still don't have anywhere to put anything. it's all relative, meaning your relatives want to use your space and then leave stuff behind. lol.

[popeyestruck]

Thats a good idea but I'm pretty sure a truck body would have overhead clearance issues going through the door

[dsraven]

Yup, gonna need a garage Reno to make the door taller, haha.
What if you take the wheels off to lower the chassis or turn the truck around so engine us not in the way or lay the cab on the firewall to get it outside?

[Tempest67]

just giving you some ideas, take the wheels off and move the frame in and out on moving dollies. (plywood with casters)

Once the frame is clean and painted, reattach the cab outside, and push back in the garage.

hope this gives you some ideas


dsraven, the slope of the driveway was minimal, and the only thing I had handy to chock the wheels was a rag... rest assured, there were no 'runaway' bodies during the restoration process.

[dsraven]

Hey tempest. I was laughing because I have done that exact thing myself. Working alone and the only thing close to me for a wheel chick was the rag in my pocket. My wallet sure wouldn't be thick enough for that, it wouldn't be thick enough to stop a hot wheels car. Lol.
Good idea to jack up the body on a wooden frame, then roll the chassis outside for work or to then get the body outside so the chassis can be brought inside.

[dsraven]

here is a pic of how I got the body off a donor envoy with a 9ft door opening and a 10 ft ceiling height. maybe possible for you to do something along this line of thinking? a frame at the front and rear instead of the engine lift may be better for tighter quarters. you still end up with the dilemma of what to do with the other part when you work on the first part. some storage somewhere is always good if available

[Tempest67]

FYI, Here is the end result

[dsraven]

Tempest, that is gorgeous. Nice job.

[fauXGT]

I always thought it odd that alot of new houses in Canada have such small garages. I guess Americans are a 'go big or go home' type, but still.
I can understand real estate is a premium in big cities, but only having a couple of feet between houses would drive me nuts... and only a single car garage in a very snowy area to boot.
Nope. I like jumping in my 'semi warm and not covered in snow' vehicles and going somewhere on a -20*C day(20*F).
p.s. I use POR-15 black on frames and underneath/inside body parts that will get overspray from finish color. If it sees too much direct sun though, it will go chalky unless you put POR top clearcoat on it. I had a frame set outside for about 9 months and it turned very chalky grey/white. I used auto wax on it before assembling the body to clean it up. A simple 'loose rust removal and degrease wipe down' before the POR and it bonds very well.