55.2-59 EZ chassis swap info

[jmlloar]

Been looking for info on these kits.
Can't find much.
Anyone else do one and take some pics?
I'm looking at the kit for 55.2 to 59 on a 73 to 87 frame.
Trying to decide between the kit and making my own mounts.

[_Ogre]

if you have the skill set to make your own, you'll probably be disappointed with the kit
not that i have any experience with the kit you're asking about
it's just that anytime i order a kit to speed things up, i end up extremely disappointed
one exception is the fatman mustII ifs kit i bought, it was exceptional
i see people order kits all the time and then come here to ask questions

[jmlloar]

I wasn't looking at all the bells and whistles. Just the cab mounts mainly.

[Getter-Done]

Have you checked the price of the kit?
That would be my determining factor.

[jmlloar]

over $1k for complete kit.
But like I said mainly only interested in the 4 cab mounts.
My big ???? is if its so good, where are all the build discussions and pics at?

I also like to see how "others" are doing or have already done for ideas. Might not use any of the info I read but sometimes it's a good idea or it gives me an idea for something else.

[jmlloar]

Falls into that, learn from the past so you dont make the same mistakes.

[mr48chev]

The only kits I know of are for putting bodies on S-10 frames. Usually bought by individuals with the misguided concept that it is cheaper to do it that way rather than use and aftermarket crossmember and rear suspension kit on their stock short bed chassis.

We don't always get an AD or TF with a usable chassis or on the chassis that fits the build we want to do these days though.

Almost every TF on a 73/87 Chassis I have seen around here has been a 4x4 build that is usually built on a 3/4 ton chassis. They don't work very well with two wheel drive trucks that you intend to lower from what I have seen. I'd be under the truck with a tape measure doing some real serious measuring as far as tread width /total outside of tire to outside of tire width factoring in my wheel of choice's offset before ever starting the swap.

Simply meaning it is what you want the end product to be and not always what is cheap or free or available at the time that really counts. There are a number of cobbled together half finished frame swap rigs around here that the guys who thought they were going to get away cheap by using the frame out of a cheap or free donor truck didn't work out as planned. several are sitting on 73/87 Frames as those trucks were dirt cheap around here until they got to the age that guys started restoring or building them. I built trailers out of two of them that guys bought as engine and trans donors and gave me the rest to the truck to scrap.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by jmlloar

Falls into that, learn from the past so you dont make the same mistakes.

Most defiantly

Maybe someone has done this and will chime in.

[jmlloar]

It's not so easy on this side of the country. What you do find is either ridiculous priced or rusted beyond repair.
I'm slowly moving forward. Sometimes it is 3 steps forward and 2 steps back, but overall it is progressing.

[jmlloar]

Also I'm not lowering it or building a trailer queen.
Actual body is 55.2 GMC 150 (3/4 TON)
And frame I ended up with is 1980 Chevy C20
At factory frame height on the C20 frame I will be very close to original 55 height. And I will probably stay close the the original tire size of the C20 frame also. (tall and skinny)
It should look pretty much stock for the 55 unless you look close.

[G&R's57GMC]

With that combination wheelbase will come into the equation which could lead to cutting the chassis to center the wheel openings . One solution is to use a flatbed .

Good luck with your build and keep us in the loop .

[MiraclePieCo]

If you're only interested in the EZ body mounts why don't you just fabricate mounts per Skymangs instructions in the S10 chassis swap thread on this forum? He was selling them before he died, but I believe there may be detailed measurements on that thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...52&postcount=3

[jmlloar]

Originally Posted by G&R's57GMC

With that combination wheelbase will come into the equation which could lead to cutting the chassis to center the wheel openings . One solution is to use a flatbed .

Good luck with your build and keep us in the loop .

I have to remove 8" from center to correct the wheelbase issue.
Its not hard to do on this year truck. I've never shortened one, but I have spliced a few back together after being cut in half.

[jmlloar]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

If you're only interested in the EZ body mounts why don't you just fabricate mounts per Skymangs instructions in the S10 chassis swap thread on this forum? He was selling them before he died, but I believe there may be detailed measurements on that thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...52&postcount=3

Cab mounts are really not much more than a flat plate with a piece of c channel welded on.
I was just looking at the fact that the ez swap ones bolt directly to the 73 to 87 frame in existing holes, eliminating all the move and measure then repeat till correct. It already done for you. I have to make everything else anyways since the kit is designed to use everthing from the donor truck. I dont want the key in column that they use. I have everthing from a chevy one ton motor home. (auto column and hydroboost).
And I cant use the rad support mounts since the 55 to 57 gmc uses a center mounted support similar to the AD trucks.
The rear half of the 73 to 87 frame is actually very similar demntionally to the 55 to 59 frame with only a slightly larger bump for rear axle.
The main difference is in the 55 to 59 goes straight from rear cab mount forward and the 73 to 87 dips down forward of the rear cab mounts to just about under the height of the 55 to 59 frame, then goes back up in front of the front cab mounts to about the height of riding on top of the 55 to 59 frame, then back down before the front bumper to the original 55 to 59 height. The main difference being the pinch in in front of the front cab mounts to clear the front suspension.
I will snap a few pics to make this easier to understand.
I do have a pic of the ez chassis swap front mounts.

[jmlloar]

The ez chassis swap front mount.

[jmlloar]

heres a side shot with straight line on top showing where 55 to 59 would be.

only have to fab mounts with about a 4 1/2 rise above the frame. I will leave them a little low in the front to let me use cab mount bushings for a 60 to 66. I don't like the 55 to 59 thin little pieces of rubber for front cab mounts.
Thats only in the front. Rear cab mounts are basically a bolt on.

[mr48chev]

I'm thinking that you have it figured out, Sometimes you have to understand what a guy is working at doing and now we pretty well have it figured out.

The skinny wheels and tires without reverse offsets should make it work. The tires will sit out about like if you had a 2 inch offset reverse wheel with no reverse. The problem comes when you start putting on wide wheels and tires on a swap like this. Or you want it low.

I'd tack a pair of lengths of strong enough 3x3 or so angle or channel wide enough to set down on the top of the rails so you had a straight line across the dip like you are showing with the bottom side of your chunk of metal now. Just tacked enough so you can set the cab on straight rails, center the wheel openings and figure out your cab mounts. Space it up the thickness of your cab mount bushings and start designing. It's going to sit on the tall side though, pretty much like a 4x4 that hasn't been lifted.

[jmlloar]

Should be close to factory height.
The 150 sat kinda high anyways.

[mr48chev]

I think the front kickup over the front suspension is a bit higher than the frame rails behind the drop. you might want to work off the height of the frame rails behind the drop and stay level with that.

[joedoh]

if you hang the cab and whatnot in the correct position over the frame and send me pictures and measurements UP and OUT, I can cut some for you on my cnc table. I have done this for guys on this forum and other places, my normal procedure is 1 16ga prototype, one final 7 ga part, and usually the cost is less than buying your own steel, not even adding up your personal labor and consumables. I also design them to ship flat and fold easy, minimizing welding and it looks great and is impossible to screw up.

I havent seen anyone do C10/55.2-59 brackets yet besides ez chassis so if its something that has a market you will also get 10% refund on every part that sells until you make 200% the original development price, essentially I am paying you by the end. but the majority of one-off stuff I do only has sold 1-2 parts, which equates to about a 20% return.

something to think about. if I can help let me know.

[jmlloar]

Sounds great. Will keep you in mind. Thanks.

[_Ogre]

dang joedoh, that's a generous offer that he probably can't refuse

[mr48chev]

Looking at the EZ Chassis swap kit, that is a lot of pieces and if they run at the price that most of those frame swap kits are you are looking at 1500+ extras for the kit. The don't give prices on their website but with the way prices on material go up now that is understandable. You have to price anything at what your material, labor and other costs are the day you make the quote with a time limit on the quote.

[jmlloar]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Looking at the EZ Chassis swap kit, that is a lot of pieces and if they run at the price that most of those frame swap kits are you are looking at 1500+ extras for the kit. The don't give prices on their website but with the way prices on material go up now that is understandable. You have to price anything at what your material, labor and other costs are the day you make the quote with a time limit on the quote.

I wouldn't be ordering all of that stuff.
all of the stuff included is under the assumption that you have a complete 73 to 87 donor truck.
I'm only using the complete frame.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

dang joedoh, that's a generous offer that he probably can't refuse

some people just enjoy building their own mounts. I have done some one offs like this, but its definitely not even 50% uptake on my offer.

for example I sell 4 S10/47-55.1 cab mounts for $100, $119 shipped in the US, and guys will spend $60-80 on steel and 3-5 hours building. there is definitely a cachet to building your own stuff and I love that guys do it.