47-55.1 An upcoming project - new wiring harness

[TX3100Guy]

I found a bit of a rats nest of old and new wiring on the 1953 truck and in a fit of AOCD (Automotive OCD), I began labeling each wire as I pulled it back into the cab and decided at that time to get a whole new wiring harness. After a bit of research I purchased Classic Update Kit - 1947-55 Chevy Truck from American AutoWire. See photo below -



Now the project planning stage begins. For those of you that have tackled this project, where did you mount the fuse block? Any imaginative locations or mounting methods? I want to clean up the firewall in the engine compartment a bit, so I want to limit and relocate where the harness enters under the hood. I'm thinking of two entry points low on each side for the wiring needed on that side of the truck (starter as a example versus alternator)

[mr48chev]

All I can say about fuse block location is out of the way but easily accessible 80% of my having to get to the fuse block on my own rigs in the past 60 years has been on the side of the road when something wasn't working. Usually lights and more often than not tail lights or headlights. Having to twist around to reach the panel and see it with what you have for a flashlight can be a challenge at times.

Wiring harness to the engine compartment, out of the way enough so that it reduces clutter to a minimum but not all that far from the fuse block. Neat and orderly routing being as important as hidden.

My 48 had the fuse block on the engine side of the firewall and while I am not planning to put fuses in it I still have the cover that I had chromed for it in 1973 and am going to run my wiring through the firewall to it and may have a Terminal block inside it to be able to connect wires there but I am still up in the air on that. i have one of those blocks in my sailboat and it works well . https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...Terminal_Block

[schovil69]

SUBSCRIBED!!!

I have a '51 that will require the same treatment, amongst much else, after I get this '56 Belair done. Studying this stuff until then helps me plan the project.

[Rickysnickers]

I wish I could find the post. There was a guy who placed all his electrics under his seat. That included his ECM/PCM for the engine and also his fuse block. It was extraordinarily nice!!

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

I wish I could find the post. There was a guy who placed all his electrics under his seat. That included his ECM/PCM for the engine and also his fuse block. It was extraordinarily nice!!

I would think that would make it challenging to change a fuse??? At least with the bench seat I'm planning on retaining.


EDIT: What about on the back wall of the cab behind the bench seat, since I removed the tank from that position, there is plenty of room??

[nvrdone]

Ive seen a couple of locations that looked interesting for the fuse box location.
The first, the owner had removed the center speaker on the dash, hinged the cover and mounted the fuse box set back about 1/2". then wiring harness went straight back to the fire wall, branched right for the starter & ignition. the harness came thru the firewall right above the valve cover. the left side came thru the cab floor about where the old park brake came thru, and then branched front & back for the lights etc.
The second one, the fuse box was mounted in the glove box with the wiring routed as above.
Both gave easy access to the fuses & relays.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

The second one, the fuse box was mounted in the glove box with the wiring routed as above.

I like this idea and I'm going to explore it more.

[Rickysnickers]

Originally Posted by TX3100Guy

I would think that would make it challenging to change a fuse??? At least with the bench seat I'm planning on retaining.


EDIT: What about on the back wall of the cab behind the bench seat, since I removed the tank from that position, there is plenty of room??

I thought so too, but it didn't appear to be the case. Again, I wish I could find it. The photo was a lot better than me trying to explain it.

[dsraven]

under the seat works if you put it in a slide out with extra wire so it can slide in/out
behind the seat works but not easy to access even if the seat folds ahead
under the dash works on a hinge/latch so it is accessible easily but out of sight. again, a little extra wire looped up there to allow the panel to move easily.
if you have a console it could be placed in there, just a little harder to access
I like to keep the panel on the drover's side so when powering on/off the key-checking circuits- you have the key within arms reach when you are hunkered down on the drivers floor under the steering wheel
a small light could also be placed next to the fuse panel, like the older chevy trucks had that mini cord reel under the hood with the magnetic light back in the late 80's early 90's
to get the wiring through the firewall or floor ensure you use a weatherproof connection so if it is wet outside it isn't also wet inside the truck. you could repurpose a stock bulkhead connection or iuse an household electrical compression fitting. a rubber grommet works but they also leak, usually, unless well sealed when you're done all the wiring.
I have seen some 4x4 guys use tupperware boxes and those household electrical compression fittings to put electrical stuff inside. the box is mounted with sealed screws from the inside, these also hold the fuse block, then the wires are brought in through the side with sealed compression fittings, then the lid is snapped on for a leak free junction box
if you google sealed automotive fuse panel you will get some hits, sma e for bulkhead connectors
anyway, just some ideas

https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/p...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

[mongocanfly]

Here is how I did my AA fuse block...I mounted it under the dash..
I used a 6in draser slide and made a mount for it and the fuse block..
I used a 23lb magnet to keep it closed/up/outta site, or whatever..
It works great..outta site , then full access

[mongocanfly]

.I left the wire long enough that theres no binding on the wiring in up or down position

[_Ogre]

Nice mount mongocanfly!
Anywhere but dashboard left or center, you'd have to splice and extend the stop/turn and ignition. Sort of defeats the purpose of the new harness. Best I've seen was hinged up front under the dash and swung down to easy peasy street. I will say that I haven't touched the harness or popped a fuse since I rewired TRUK 12 years ago. New harness is trouble free

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

.I left the wire long enough that theres no binding on the wiring in up or down position

Very nice. I like this!

[_Ogre]

Because you bought auto wire truck specific, you won't have a lot of extra wire length. Look at my build thread, rear harness comes out low and front lighting/ac goes out next to the heater hose on the right. Universal harness had plenty of wire length. My motor harness CPU wiring comes from the back of the motor behind the distributor

[mongocanfly]

I gave alot of thought to doing a swing down mount like ogre stated..
But under the IH dash there is very very little open space..
Dropping straight down was about the only option

[gigamanx]

From experience of having to pull my harness and do it twice...grab yourself some of the Powerbraid stuff too. Great loom kit for the truck when getting a custom wiring kit.

https://www.amazon.com/Painless-Wiri...01AVXRF8&psc=1

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

From experience of having to pull my harness and do it twice...grab yourself some of the Powerbraid stuff too. Great loom kit for the truck when getting a custom wiring kit.

https://www.amazon.com/Painless-Wiri...01AVXRF8&psc=1

I have some cheaper stuff that I was going to use, but this looks way better.

[dsraven]

that stuff is awesome. you can buy it at your local electrical supplier. lots of different sizes available. push it together and it gets bigger around to allow the wire to pass through, then pull it apart and it tightens up on the wires. cut off the excess.

[mongocanfly]

when i did my PSI LS harness i swapped the ol plastic loom out for their retro look loom.. liked the way it looked so i bought some cheap stuff of ebay to do the the AA wiring,.. didnt like the look of it, then i bought some holley split braided loom.. nice quality and the look is so much better..since i have several trucks , i bought it in 50ft rolls

[gigamanx]

Same experience as others.... tried the cheap plastic stuff. It doesn't compare to a nice set of braided covers. Well worth the cost and effort -- from experience -- especially putting it on BEFORE routing your wires haha.

[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

Ive seen a couple of locations that looked interesting for the fuse box location.
The first, the owner had removed the center speaker on the dash, hinged the cover and mounted the fuse box set back about 1/2". then wiring harness went straight back to the fire wall, branched right for the starter & ignition. the harness came thru the firewall right above the valve cover. the left side came thru the cab floor about where the old park brake came thru, and then branched front & back for the lights etc.
The second one, the fuse box was mounted in the glove box with the wiring routed as above.
Both gave easy access to the fuses & relays.

Center of dash speaker has '35 Chevy gauges in it from what I've seen in TX3100GUY's photo gallery.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by 3757chevy

Center of dash speaker has '35 Chevy gauges in it from what I've seen in TX3100GUY's photo gallery.

Can't say for sure if they are from a 35' given the previous owner is no longer around, but the speedo and tach (with an integrated vacuum gauge) are definitely not from a 35' or a 53'.

The two lower gauges are for fuel psi and boost psi, as a result of the McCulloch supercharger.





The toggle switch was for the electric engine fan, but its now gone in favor of a Hayden switch (thermostatically controlled fan relay)

[Dan in Pasadena]

SOMEWHERE - and of course I didn't save the picture - I saw someone mounted their fuse block on a small metal panel on drawer slides under their seat. It was secured with a magnet latch and could be pulled out whenever they needed to check a fuse. I thought it was genius.

[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by TX3100Guy

Can't say for sure if they are from a 35' given the previous owner is no longer around, but the speedo and tach (with an integrated vacuum gauge) are definitely not from a 35' or a 53'.

...Here is my '35 and what the mounting looks like... That speedo and tach are interesting.

[vintovka]

Nice pics. The harness ideas are helpful but wondering how they can handle upgrading as technology marches on. Was surfing net and seems multifunction gauges are starting to come way down in price. Saw one 85mm Diameter one with almost everything. GPS speedo, fuel, voltmeter, Oil pressure, eng temp and even headlight light indicators and turn signals built in. Wonder how long before these are all wireless?????