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01-05-2004, 01:32 AM | #1 |
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Location: Lewisville, NC
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How can I get 1.5" of lift in the front?
I'm installing a 4" lift on my 85 K10 shortbed and want to add another 1.5" of lift on top of that for 5.5" of lift or would go with 6" total but want to keep blocks to a minimum. I was going to go with 1.5" lift shackles in front and 1.5" blocks in the back, but was told shackles usually only lift half of what they claim, so I emailed company to ask them the details. But if they will only lift my truck 3/4" how can I get the other 3/4"?
Something I thought of was zero rates up front with the ORD shackles with I believe are 1" longer and give 1/2" lift right? And then I could run the 1 1/2" blocks in back. Last edited by Destructo; 01-05-2004 at 01:37 AM. |
01-05-2004, 02:21 AM | #2 |
Collector of rusty Items
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Hmm.
It sounds like you have the right idea but, from what I have seen, you might want to get it done with the 4 inch lift first and then fine tune it. My buddy did a lift and the back was lower than the front by about 1.5 inches. He had to buy blocks. The only reason I say this is you might find that your want 2 inch blocks or something other than the 1.5 blocks you just bought and now have no use for. Maybe don't even tighten up the bolts, but get it on the ground with the tires on and take a peek. Just a thought, good luck
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Scrub Sisters, Oregon - Home of the Sisters Rodeo. 70 GMC 1,000,000 + miles 72 K-20 project, 456 Dana60 front, Corp14 rear w/locker, 265R19.5 tires 20-ply. Warn 12k winches both ends, Cross-over steering with raised tie-rod, Powerbox steering, 4500 watt 120-AC power, Air, Hydraulic aux power, 4 inch lift, 5000 lb air-bags both ends. |
01-05-2004, 02:34 AM | #3 |
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Yeah, i'll probably install the 4" kit first and drive it a little bit to make sure its going to sit level like you said. I'm going with all new springs though and their the same brand so I shouldn't have too much trouble, but ya never know.
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01-05-2004, 07:05 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
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I have the ord shackles now and unless they changed something they are only 1/2" longer thus 1/4" lift. You could add a leaf but that would stiffen the front up.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
01-05-2004, 12:26 PM | #5 |
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My buddy used all, brand new springs also. Ditto, Ya never know
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Scrub Sisters, Oregon - Home of the Sisters Rodeo. 70 GMC 1,000,000 + miles 72 K-20 project, 456 Dana60 front, Corp14 rear w/locker, 265R19.5 tires 20-ply. Warn 12k winches both ends, Cross-over steering with raised tie-rod, Powerbox steering, 4500 watt 120-AC power, Air, Hydraulic aux power, 4 inch lift, 5000 lb air-bags both ends. |
01-05-2004, 02:05 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Rose Hill, KS, USA
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The Zero Rate will give you a full 1" of lift and it is center bolted so should work. I had something like the Zero Rate made for me by a buddy but I had him angle them slight like a degree shim. When I pulled them to put on different springs one of the center bolt heads was bending which kind of bothered me.
Which brand spring are you going with? If you get the 4" Ez-ride Tuff Country front springs and add their extra leaf which makes the spring pack actually their HD spring pack, you actually gain right at 1" of extra length due to that extra spring's thickness and how it adds to the curve of the existing spring pack.
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1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift 1980 Pontiac Trans Am, 455 Oldsmobile 2012 Kawasaki Concours 14 |
01-05-2004, 03:59 PM | #7 |
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I'm using rough country 4" springs. Could I use angle shims to help re-correct the pinion angle problems that a longer shackle would give me?
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01-06-2004, 12:18 PM | #8 |
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This may be a dumb question but why not just buy 6" springs?
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2011 CCSB GMC 2500HD DMAX 73 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 96 Chevy 1500 STD Cab Shortbed Z71 Owner of WickedWolfRC.com |
01-06-2004, 12:19 PM | #9 |
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Because I already bought the 4" springs.
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01-06-2004, 12:20 PM | #10 |
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than try zero rates and shackles. Hope you aren't wheeling it too hard though. I hope you got a good deal on the 4" springs, generally 6" springs aren't too much more expensive.
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2011 CCSB GMC 2500HD DMAX 73 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 96 Chevy 1500 STD Cab Shortbed Z71 Owner of WickedWolfRC.com |
01-06-2004, 12:41 PM | #11 |
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I was planning on just going with a 4" lift at first but am now thinking I want a little bit more to make sure the 35's will clear. I do wheel it somewhat hard but I don't think an extra 1.5" is going to be a problem. I may get the HD ORD shackles which are 1/2" longer and then fab a new spring hanger in the front to be a 1/4" longer which will bring my caster back to normal and give me the 1/2" I want on top of the zero rates.
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